Cruising Around

Tuesday September 15, we left Lahaina Marina just after noon, headed towards Molokini Shoal Marine Life Conservation District to do some snorkeling.

Molokini is a crescent-shaped, partially submerged volcanic crater, and is an underwater sanctuary. Located 7.5 miles off the coast of Maui, it is half-mile wide and rises 160 feet above sea level. During World War ll, the US used it for target practice. In 1977 Molokini and the surrounding 77 acres of underwater terrain were declared a Marine Life Conservation District.

Sunset over Molokini

We anchored for the night at Makena Beach, a little sheltered from the waves.

The Milky Way and a sky full of stars!

Wednesday September 16, we were up early, 5:30am. Heading towards the Big Island.

We anchored at sunset in Kealakekua Bay, in Hawaii, just outside the restricted area. Vessels need a permit to be in the bay. Inside the bay on the shore stands a white obelisk to memorialize explorer Captain James Cook.

For dinner I made Southwest Chicken Skillet with rice. Larry can pick out the zucchini and red peppers.

After dinner, we heard splashing in the water around out boat. Dan shined a flashlight in the water, there are Manta Rays swimming around us!

Manta Ray, 15sec. video

The Milky Way and a sky full of stars!

Thursday September 17, cruising north up the leeward coast. Much of the coastline are lava fields.

Mauna Kea, a dormant volcano, stands at 13,803ft above sea level. It is the highest point in the state of Hawaii. Most of the volcano is underwater. If measured from its base, it would be the tallest mountain in the world at 33,500ft. Thirteen telescopes, funded by eleven different countries, have been constructed at the summit. The Mauna Kea Observatories are used for scientific research across the electromagnetic spectrum and comprise the largest facility of its kind in the world.

USGS.gov photo

Mauna Kea is 125ft taller than Mauna Loa which last erupted in 1984. Kīlauea stands at 4091ft above sea level, sitting East of Mauna Loa, is one of the most active volcanos in the world, last eruption was in 2018. Hualalai stands 8271 ft above sea level, last erupted 1801, it is expected to erupt again within the next century.

The Milky Way and a sky full of stars!

Friday September 18, anchor up by 8am headed back towards Maui.

At 8pm EST, there was a large family zoom get together to sing and wish my sister in-law Sue, a happy 60th birthday.

We anchored just after sunset in Honolua Bay. I made sausage and pepperoni pizza for dinner, one slice left!

The Milky Way and a sky full of stars!

Saturday September 19, sailed around the north shore of Moloka‘i Island. The north shore by the Forest Reserve is breathtaking!

Leftovers for dinner. We anchored for the night on the western shore, it was quite rolly all night, the boat never did settle into the waves.

Sunday September 20, on our way by 9:30am, towards Oahu.

Craters to Graves

Saturday September 12, Haleakalā National Park, an International Biosphere Reserve that supports native ecosystems in a volcanic landscape.

The Park Service incorporates Native Hawaiian guidelines and knowledge of cultural resources, using traditional and modern methods for the preservation of natural resources. The Summit District, the main feature is the crater. It is 6.99 miles across, 2.0 mi wide, and 2,600 ft deep.

At the summit, Sunrises and sunsets are popular events as well as stargazing. The park in normal times is open to visitors all day year round.

Sunday September 13, we were up and out before 8am. Another sightseeing day by car. We drove down to Hana on a crazy curvy road, on a quest to find the grave of Charles Lindbergh. The landscape on the drive was mountainous and lush with green vegetation. There were several small waterfalls and “swimming holes” along the way.

Charles Lindbergh died in Maui, 1974, and was buried at the graveyard of the Palapala Ho’omau Congregational Church. The inscription reads, ‘If I take the wings of the morning, and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea C.A.L.’

More photos from our excursion, fruit and coastlines.

Monday September 14- food shopping day, we’re leaving Maui tomorrow, going to sail around the Big Island then sail to Oahu.

My sourdough starter failed again, for the third time. I’m going to blame it on the rough sailing when we left Eureka. It was difficult to measure the flour and water, not to mention trying to keep it fed. At one point it spilled all over the counter. Here in Maui I found Maui Artisan Sourdough Bread Co.. He has an Etsy shop and sells his starter, so we went to his warehouse today and I purchased some. Not having an address to ship to, this was a great find! I think I’ll wait untill we get to Oahu to start the process as the next week or so we’ll be traveling.

We came across this old beach front cemetery, in the sand dunes, The Puupiha Cemetery. Headstones commemorate the lives of Japanese laborers. They originally came to Hawaii to work the pineapple and sugar cane fields in the 1800’s. The left facing swastika seen on several stones is used as a symbol of divinity and spirituality in ancient religious cultures of Eurasia. It continues to be used as a symbol of good luck and prosperity in Hindu and Buddhist countries such as Nepal, India, Mongolia, China and Japan.

Across the street from the cemetery is the Lahaina Jodo Mission. The mission is a replica of a Japanese Buddhist temple. The statue was erected in 1968 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Japanese immigrants arriving in Hawaii.

Maui

Wednesday September 9,

Maui is the second largest of the Hawaiian Islands. Major industry is tourism, primary agricultural products are corn ,seeds, coffee, macadamia nuts, papaya, flowers and fresh pineapple. Haleakalā is 10,023ft high dormant volcano, last erupted over 500 years ago, one of the world’s largest volcanic craters. At the crest of the volcano sits The Haleakala Observatory, not open to the public, is an astronomical research and development facility, free from light pollution, offers observation of satellites, missiles, man-made orbital debris, and astronomical objects.

We took a short 3 mile walk around Lahaina this afternoon, stopped for a Dole Whip (soft serve dairy-free frozen dessert) along the way. I had a cup of lemonade and pineapple, Dan had a cup of Raspberry, Larry had a Chocolate Cheesecake and Macadamia Nut in a waffle cone.

For tonight’s dinner, fresh caught Mahi-mahi with yellow rice!

Thursday September 10, laundry day…a 2.5 mile round trip walk mid morning, 7 washing machines $36.00, 6 dryers $15.00, lunch at Bubba Gumps on the way back to the boat. Wheeled our wagon full of clean laundry in bags, right in next to our table. Had lunch outside on the patio, we were the only ones there.

Looking to rent a car for the weekend to tour around Maui. We called Enterprise, cause they “pick you up”. What a run around! The girl on the phone said we had to quarantine for 14 days before we could rent a car. Her manager did admit their policy is geared for arrivals via airplane, but he would have to clear it with his manager if they would rent us a car. We told them both we have proof of our journey, they have yet to call back. Meanwhile we acquired a vehicle from a competitor.

Sunset

Friday September 11, Happy Birthday Kevin!

The boat was moved to a different slip this morning. The one we were in was really for loading and unloading, we were there for three days. It was an interesting process, we backed in-between two other sailboats, where one end of each boat is attached to individual mooring balls, the other end to the dock. There are no finger docks between boats. It’s Mediterranean style docking.

With a rented car from Lahaina Auto Rentals, we stopped for lunch at Tante’s Fishmarket Restaurant & Bar, sat outside, only ones there, sitting outside. Also came to check out the Marina here too. During lunch, the manager from the Lahaina Marina called, apparently the two boats we parked in between complained, so now we’re going back to our spot on the temporary dock. We liked it better there anyway.

After lunch we drove through Mākena State Park, with it’s beautiful beaches.

Nearby we also drove on a paved road through a lava field on Cape Kinau.

Sunset

For dinner we went to the Lahaina Yacht Club. Because we are staying in the Marina, we have “privileges” there. Drinks and dessert is what we had.

We didn’t move the boat back as the space was occupied by another sailboat. We called the Marina manager, we’ll see what happens tomorrow. It appears to be a foreign vessel and may be violating Hawaii quarantine laws, as well docking without authorization, no one was on the boat when we stopped by.

Aloha!- Life at Sea for 13.5 Days

Wednesday August 26- Day 1 6:15am PST we’re off to Hawaii! Crossing the Pacific Ocean!

The winds were brisk and waves high, as were cruising 9-12 knots speed over ground with 25-32 knots of true wind.

We reached across the fire breathing dragon!

Late afternoon a loud thud was heard, our D400 wind generator fell off the boat. The weld failed. We also have solar panels to charge the batteries. A bolt that holds a diagonal bar on the Bimini fell off, Dan replaced it. With big waves and wind items below fell, even when we thought everything was secure. Other casualty’s of the day, one plastic stemless wine glass, one plastic drinking glass and one ceramic coffee mug.

186 miles traveled this day. Max speed over ground 14.0kn, surfing down a wave, 33.4kn Max True wind speed

Thursday August, 27- Day 2 breakfast Cinnamon French Toast Casserole

Nautical Miles traveled, 180.

Sunset

Friday August 28 Day 3- overnight the winds shifted more north which was a good thing! Down to 18kn of breeze sailing 8.5 knots speed over ground.

Saturday August 29, Day 4- Happy Anniversary Beth & Kevin!

Sunday August 30, Day 5- Trip time 98.27 hours, Distance 749.2nm, Ave speed 7.7 kn, Ave miles per day 184.5, Trip max speed 14kn.

Sunset

Monday August 31, Day 6- a few calls were made via satellite phone to try to get another D400 wind generator as well as the mounting bracket that failed at the weld.

After 6 days on starboard tack, we jibed.

We’re being followed by 2 Wedge-tailed Shearwater birds. We named then Viper and Maverick. They flew along side us, soaring between waves like fighter pilots flying through a canyon.

Jambalaya for dinner, Larry actually ate one pepper slice as well as the diced tomatoes!

Tuesday September 1, Day 7- this morning we jibed back to starboard, set the pole to wing and wing the sails. Course heading 220, straight to Maui 1019 miles to go!

Leftover jambalaya in a wrap for dinner.

Averaging 180 miles per day, however the next couple days will have lighter winds so our average will go down.

Wednesday September 2, Day 8- after a night of several rain squalls, it was nice to see the sun in the morning. The Code 65 sail was deployed then the halyard broke, into the water she went. Dan and Larry pulled her back aboard, attached it to the spinnaker halyard, it was up flying again. Back in March, actually since we purchased the sail, we had issues with this sail not furling properly. Today the top won’t unfurl! Such a high maintenance sail!

Just before dinner Cody (code 65 sail) was furled in for the night.

For dinner we had potatoes sliced thin sautéed with bacon bits and cheddar cheese.

Maverick and Viper haven’t been seen in more than a day, they must be on a secret mission. We also have a new follower a white bird, resembling the white tail tropic birds we saw on Isla Isabel in Mexico, named him Iceman.

An hour before sunset, at 8:05pm boat time, Maverick and Viper reappeared!

Thursday September 3, Day 9- Happy Anniversary Ben and Rachael!

Sunrise 8:39am boat time (PST) at 11:00am today, we switched to Hawaii time UTC-10, it’s 8am again! 6 hours behind EST.

For dinner I made pasta with chicken in a spicy olive oil sauce.

Each day has become routine, eat, nap,watch, sleep.

Friday September 4, Day 10- Trip time 221.3 hours, Distance, 1563.0 nm, Ave speed 7.1 kn, Ave. miles per day 173.7 nm, Trip max speed 14kn

Cajun Rice for dinner with apple crisp for dessert.

2 hours of a sky full of stars with the Milky Way, then the moon rose, 93% waxing, lit the sky.

Saturday September 5, Day 11- 490 nautical miles to go! Water temperature 80.7 F

Sunday September 6, Day 12- lazy Sunday, the majority of the day was spent reading by all. I’m reading Nine Perfect Strangers by Laine Mariarty, Larry is reading Foxcatcher by Mark Schultz and Dan has been reading The Long Way by Bernard Moitessier.

Very cloudy sunset today, as there are scattered rain squalls about.

Monday September 7, Day 13– Labor Day, we all finished reading our books today.

Tuesday September 8, Day 14- we arrived in Hawaii this morning, 13 days, 12 hours, 2233 nautical miles, ave. speed 6.9 knots! Our quarantine was satisfied during the passage. All counties in Hawaii have a 14 day quarantine, Interisland travel also, except traveling to O’ahu from other Hawaiian islands.

The banyan tree in Lahaina, Maui was planted on April 24, 1873, to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the arrival of the first American Protestant mission. It is the largest tree in the United States. It covers 1.94 acres, stands 60 ft tall and has rooted into 16 major trunks.

Eureka!

Saturday August 22- we arrive at 10am in the fog, dodging small fishing boats and kayaks in the channel.

Eureka is a port city in Northern California established in 1850, as a transportation and supply center for the Gold Rush. Today, the entire city is a state historic landmark. The Old Town district features elaborate Victorian houses. Nearby Sequoia Park is home to massive old redwood trees.

Several boat projects on list today. First up change the engine oil and both fuel filters.

For me, a little canvas repair. The top of the Bimini, where one of the structural poles run through, had a hole in it caused by wear. With a three inch wide piece of sunbrella, the width of the Bimini, doubled over raw edged folded to center, it was sewed seam down across the width along the pole line.

While I was sewing the Bimini, the window was accidentally step on, as is was spread across the floor, and cracked. Fortunately I had extra Regalite vinyl window material that was used on the cockpit enclosure. I also replaced the other window in the Bimini as it was yellowed and you could see out of it.

Another project completed, well at least one side is done. Flaps added to the first panel of the enclosure for ropes to go through. Previously all the lines ran under the the panel. Hopefully this will add a little bit more protection from water spray and cold air. Our enclosure was designed for the fabric to be held out with Velcro attached to the lifelines to give room for operating the wenches.

Late afternoon, Dan and Larry did laundry, I finished up other little canvas repairs and baked banana bread.

Monday August 24- second canvas panel flaps completed today, as well as resewing several seams on windshield canvas.

Dan replaced the starter relay, Larry washed sheets.

We attended a family, Dan’s siblings and three kids, zoom meeting, great seeing everyone.

For dinner I made Shepherds Pie, without vegetables.

Tuesday August 25- today is our 41st Wedding Anniversary!

Provision day, it’s exhausting! Costco, Walmart, Ulta, WinCo Foods and North Coast co-op. There was place for everything on the boat!

Tomorrow morning bright and early we will be departing Eureka, sailing to Hawaii! The journey is approximately 2300 miles, should take us 2-3 weeks. There is no cell service in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Blog posts will continue when we arrive. Here’s to fair winds and smooth sailing!

Destination Eureka

Monday August 17- we arrived at Westport Marina around 10am.

Westport, Washington is a cozy beach town located at the mouth of Grays Harbor off the Pacific Ocean. The Marina District is a working marina where you can watch fishing boats come and go, as well as purchase fresh local seafood on and near the docks.

For dinner we did takeout from Merinos seafood. We all had fish and chips. It was by far the best we’ve had! Dan and I had Salmon, Larry had Cod.

We departed Westport 1am as we need to put some miles behind us before bigger winds arrive on Saturday near Eureka.

Tuesday August 18- the day started with light winds on the nose then shifted northwest. We had both the code 65 and spinnaker deployed at different times during the day.

After the winds died down the engine wouldn’t start. The problem was diagnosed as a faulty starter relay. Dan was able to start the engine, by-passing the relay. A new relay was ordered, shipping it to a marina we’ll be going to.

Larry and Dan

We anchored for the night on the south side of point, Cape Lookout State Park, Oregon.

For dinner I made pasta and chicken with sautéed peppers, onions and mushrooms on the side. Larry is a picky eater, doesn’t like many vegetables.

Wednesday August 19- anchor up by 8:00am, heading south to Coos Bay, another overnight. I get the 7pm-11pm shift, followed by Dan 11pm to 3am, Larry 3am to 7am. We don’t use a schedule for daytime.

It was foggy the majority of the day, with the wind on the nose. As night approached, the fog lifted revealing gray skies.

For dinner I made rice with turkey, no vegetables.

Thursday August 20- change of plans, the bar* at Coos Bay has a restrictions today due to wind and waves. So we’ll anchor for the night at Point Orford.

Port Orford is a small, artistic, fishing town in the Southern Oregon. It is the most westerly city in the continental U.S.

By 3pm we had dropped anchor.

From a house on the cliff, we were sent via social media two photos of our boat. Thanks!

The sky was very overcast, with low clouds. At sunset we could see the sun shining on mountains across the bay, but couldn’t see the sun.

For dinner I baked homemade pizza, notice the 1/3 without vegetables, that’s for Larry!

Friday August 21- pancakes for breakfast.

Followed by whales for morning entertainment! There were at least two of them.

For dinner I made tuna noodle casserole, Debbi’s (Larry’s wife)recipe without the chips, somebody ate them all.

Sliver of a sunset, in rolls the fog again

The fog lifted for several hours revealing The Milky Way and a sky full of stars! Then gently rolled back in.

*bar refers to sand bar at the entrance to Coos Bay.

Anacortes to Westhaven

Friday August 14- shopping for a week, then by 2:30pm we were in the water!

We dropped anchor at 7:30pm in Bayloy bay on Lopez Island.

Saturday August 15- anchor up by 7:30am.

Race Rock Lighthouse, Canada

By 8:40pm we dropped anchor at Neah Bay, Washington.

Sunday August 16- 10am anchor up. We’re doing an overnight passage today, Larry’s first of many. I’ll take the first shift, Dan and Larry will do the second together. Destination is Ocean Shores, Westhaven Cove Boat Basin. Over 20 knots of wind with rolling swells and waves, 15-20 degree heel, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for dinner. I have my limits!

The Milky-way and a sky full of stars!

New Crew

Monday August 10- Happy Birthday Rachael (and Andrea)! Trance was hauled out of the water this morning. We wanted to check the area where the whale hit us before we cross the Pacific Ocean.

Dan’s brother Larry arrived today, he’s sailing with us to Hawaii. As soon as the repair job is complete, we’ll be on our way. So for now it’s hotel time, as they won’t let us stay on the boat, or in the yard after hours. We’re staying at a really cute Bed and Breakfast The Nantucket Inn, here in Anacortes. If you’re ever in the area overnight and need a place to stay, we would highly recommend it. For dinner we went next door to Bob’s Chowder Bar.

Tuesday August 11- another trip to the dentist for me, third time since February. Once in Costa Rica again in Mexico, nothing too serious, this Dentist thinks I may have a broken nerve or the tooth is slightly cracked below the gum line. He said eventually it will need to come out, but it still has life to it now. It’s not painful, just pressure. Funny, 3 dentists, 3 different opinions. 5.2 miles walking.

The insurance adjuster stopped by today, he’ll come back tomorrow as the yard here is going to grind away at the fiberglass so they can see the extent of the damage. Pizza for dinner.

Wednesday August 12- on a side note, I’m learning to make sourdough bread! My first “starter” failed, so I’m trying again. The Sourdough Schoolhouse periodically offers a free Zoom workshop, it’s live with prerecorded videos. This morning I watched. Access to today’s videos will be available for 30 days which is a good thing. I’ve never attempted sourdough bread making.

Meanwhile back at the boat, Dan and Larry installed the new Iridium Go with Predict Wind. I walked to the boat after my class, then to West Marine to get a part they needed to complete the installation.

Progress on the fiberglass

For dinner we went back to Bobs for more clam chowder. Bob came outside to chat with us. Nice guy, the food is great! 5.9 miles walking.

Thursday August 13- laundry day, still waiting for fiberglass work to be finished. The goal is to be back in the water by Friday.

Progress

For dinner we did takeout from Ciao Bella. Great Italian food, huge portions! Good thing we walked 4.9 miles, to burn those calories.

Crew Change again

Sunday August 8- up by 7, on to Anacortes. We are having the boat pulled out of the water to check on the area where the whale hit us. After calls to several marinas in the area, Cap Sante Marina in Anacortes was able to do the work starting Monday.

Anacortes is located on Fidalgo Island. It is halfway between Seattle and Vancouver BC. In a 90 minute self guided walk around town, one can see the historic buildings and houses. Ferry’s also run to and from the San Juan Islands from here.

We walked 6 miles after dinner around downtown Anacortes. When we were here in June, we explored what was to the left of the marina. Today we went right. Really cute touristy town. On several buildings throughout downtown, there are “cutouts”. Most were of historical people who first had a business in that building.

Craig is also departing Trance today. His daughter Alicia and her husband live in Portland, they are driving up, spending the night in Seattle together, then dropping him off at the airport.

Mt. Baker

Port Angeles to Edmonds

Friday August 7- we departed Port Angeles around 9am, down Puget Sound heading for Edmonds, located 15 miles north of Seattle.

We could faintly see Mt Rainier just to the left of Seattle.

For dinner I cooked the halibut we were given in Metlakatla, along with cheesy mashed potatoes, it was so good!

Saturday, August 8- cleaning day, Dan and Craig worked on the auto pilot. Thistle sailor friend Wayne Balsiger who lives in the area, stop by to say hello. We had dinner outside at Anthony’s, tables were more than 6 ft apart.

Sunset at the marina