Trip around the island by water

Saturday December 26, first stop the fuel dock to fill up with duty free diesel. This was an interesting process. You back the boat up to this cement wall, drop an anchor, throw two stern lines to attendant who ties them off on the same cleat, keep the engine running. We throw him a third line he attaches the fuel nozzle to, we bring it aboard to fill the tank. Using a small wet bag with a credit card inside, tied to a rope, we pass that over to pay for the diesel.

The first anchorage, Hooumi Bay, it’s a finger off of Controller Bay. There are three other boats anchored here. We did not go ashore here, on our land tour we stopped here.

Sunday December 27, *Sourdough Notes* mixed the dough for overnight Belle. This is another method where you mix the ingredients, put in fridge to slowly bulk ferment. My dough has been very billowy lately, possibly from the warm temperatures, maybe this method will be better here. I may be able to bake it this evening. Also baked banana bread in the morning.

Dan replaced the the outhaul again as it continued to chafe. He did find the source and fixed that too. Also switched the outhaul sheet with the staysail boom line. Then checked the rig tension, making a few minor adjustments.

Monday December 28, anchor up by 8am. It was a pleasant sail with 15knots of wind, speed over ground 5.4.

We anchored in Anaho Bay, today there are 19 other sailboats here. There is a small village, one restaurant, no stores. There is a hostel…

Washed laundry in the sink.

Tuesday December 29, this morning we’re giving the halyards a 15000 mile check up. Dropped the Genoa, sure enough there was a little bit of chafing. Dan cut the end off and retied it. He also checked the forestay tension. We’ll raise it back up when the wind calms. The Staysail halyard looked good, a little chafing on the sheet, which was cut off, shortening the line. Still need to check the Main halyard, and Cody, when the wind is less.

After lunch we took a walk to find the farm. It was 3.5 miles round trip, along the beach, over hills, grass, sand, rocks and dirt, we had flip flops on, not a good choice. At the farm we purchased tomatoes, limes, cucumbers and a watermelon. The farm is 10 acres.

Wednesday December 30, late morning we set off on another hike. This time up and over the mountain, about 1000ft elevation, 6.6 miles round trip, on a winding dirt covered path. On the other side is Hatiheau. We had lunch, then walked back over the hill.

Thursday December 31, New Years Eve. *Sourdough Notes* baked a Belle loaf this morning. I wasn’t pleased with the previous method I tried, so this time I put the dough in the fridge during the first hour of bulk fermentation to slow the process down. This worked very well. Also baked a banana bread.

Codey was dropped, then raised, to check the halyard, all is good.

We designed and made halyard bags. It helps prevent sun deterioration and keeps them organized, at the mast. I used old North Sails sail bags, and vinyl mesh for air and water drainage on the bottom.

Dinner was at Louise. A small beach front restaurant with 7 tables, outdoor seating. There was no menu, they just brought food to your table. There were three different plates. One was egg salad on French bread garnished with tomato or dill pickles, a quiche like, and pizza like squares on another plate, the third was kabobs of marinated grilled yellowtail tuna with onion and pineapple. So good!

Friday January 1, 2021 New Years Day!

Completed sewing projects today.

First was a bag with Velcro, attached to the boat in he cockpit, kind of a catch all bag, with a vinyl mesh bottom for drainage. The second, Dan wanted this piece of fabric to go across the back near the helmsman seat, to direct water from waves to bypass going into the cockpit and getting the helmsman seat wet.

We are left Anaho Bay by 11:00am going to another anchorage, Hakaehu Bay, working our way around the island. We are the only boat here.

Saturday January 2, we left our cozy anchorage in the morning, traveling about 2 hours to Haaopu Bay. Again we are the only boat in the anchorage.

Dan worked on the water maker most of the day. We had previously purchased chemicals to clean the membrane, it was a several hour process, ready to make more water.

Sunday January 3, we decided not to go ashore as the waves are a bit rough, didn’t want to beat ourselves up trying.

Departed Haaopu Bay for Baie Marquisienne, we decided not to stop as it was pretty wavy in there. Going to Daniel’s Bay, Baie De Taioa. Known to many cruisers as Daniel’s Bay from a local man who used to greet yachts and offer some services. Daniel passed away a few years ago. Dropped anchor around 2pm. Nice quiet, calm anchorage, there is one other boat here. The village is Hakaui.

Monday January 4, We hiked 6.6 miles round trip, took us more than 4 hours, over a very rocky, slightly hilly trail to find the waterfalls. I wore long sleeve shirt and tights, as the last hike we did in the woods I got bit a lot, even with bug repellent on. Along the trail there were 2 streams to cross, 1 had rocks to walk on, the water was about 2 ft deep in the middle. We used walking sticks to balance. The biggest creek, to cross, you walk across a tree that had fallen, holding on to another branch, there was quite a current in the water, it was about 4ft deep. You could of course just walk through the water. There are vertical walls of rock that rise to nearly 800 meters along the path. Vaipo Waterfalls, the highest in French Polynesia, it is 350 meters high that plummets into a natural swimming pool. The waterfall was just a trickle, it’s been pretty dry here.

On our way back an elderly couple who didn’t speak English, wanted to sell us fruit, we stopped sat on their patio for awhile as they they listen to music on the radio, Hotel California (in English) was playing. We gave them money for bananas, even though they didn’t want to be paid. A little ways down we had lunch at Teiki Et Koa. The menu of the day was grilled beef, bread fruit, and a fruit salad of shredded mango, papaya and pineapple. Also a pure juice drink of orange, mango, pineapple, star fruit and maybe more. We also purchased a pineapple from her. It was an exhausting day!

Tuesday January 5, *Sourdough Notes* baking a Belle loaf, as well as a banana bread.

In the afternoon, we went ashore to the beach.

Tomorrow, returning to Taiohae Bay to complete trip around the island.

11 thoughts on “Trip around the island by water

  1. Was the gas station process set up because of covid or do they do that all the time?
    Wow it looks like you have these beautiful islands and all these bays to yourself! I wonder how many people would be here during normal times?


    1. Yes that’s the normal gas process, crazy! We are not here during peak season, but would be more. Most cruisers here have been here since lockdown early last year. Most will stay till End of April, May when cyclone season ends.


  2. Have you updated your Schedule? When will you be at Australia and which port? Then which additional ports and days at each? We need to order tickets.


    1. We can’t answer that question as we’re still trying to figure where we can go. Almost all the islands in the South Pacific have closed their borders. As of today only a handful of Australian ports are open, they require a 14 day quarantine in a government hotel at your own expense, time at sea does not count towards the time.


  3. Mast halyard bags look like they’ll work fine!!! Cool! Good work! Breads smell fantastically!! 🙂


  4. Again….. Amazing pictures. You guys have been crazy, busy too! I’m sorry to hear so many places are being quarantined though. That really stinks, but at least you are still able to enjoy a lot of the island lives & their foods. btw…. your final bread looks like it turned out amazing! Let us know whenever you get your new schedule. Not sure of Paul’s travels yet. He has his next appt the end of the month. Happy continued traveling!!!!


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