Charlottetown, PEI

Tuesday, July 15, 2025 John and Joy departed TRANCE this morning, Mark gave them a ride to Halifax to catch their flight this afternoon. We are waiting till high tide to leave as the inlet is shallow.

John, Joy, me and Dan

Departed Fox Harb’r at 1:20pm. 5:56pm arrived in Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island at the Charlottetown Yacht Club. Total miles travelled today 26.7.

Walked around the waterfront then stopped at Peake’s Quay for dinner.

Wednesday, July 16, 2025 PEI in one day! Walked to Sobeys grocery store with our wagon to provision for 5 days. It was a 3.3 mile round trip walk. Lunch on TRANCE.

Throughout the waterfront and downtown area, there are three self guided walking tours you can follow. Painted stripes on the edge of the sidewalk are yellow for shops and services, red is the Historic walk and green the Waterfront walk.

We followed the red line. First stop was Cow’s for ice cream. Best ice cream I’ve ever had!

COFFEE COWRUNCH
Rich coffee ice cream, English toffee swirl, and Oreo pieces.

Continuing along our red line, stopped at Juice Co., I had water, Dan had a berry smoothie. We signed the antique ice cream cart as the sign above said “Where are you from?”

There were several houses and buildings along our route that are designated National Historic Sites of Canada.


Charlottetown City Hall c.1888, still in use today.

The Charlottetown Conference in September of 1864, was a pivotal meeting of provincial delegates that laid the groundwork for the Confederation of Canada. This meeting ultimately lead to the birth of the Dominion of Canada.

Total miles walked following the red line, 2.1. Had dinner at Brakish Dockside Bar and Eatery.

Thursday, July 17, 2025 departed Charlottetown Yacht Club at 5:50am.

Transited the Canso Canal at 7:15pm, mean low tide on both sides of the lock, we barely moved. The lock master had us hover in the center instead of being tied to the wall.

The Canso Canal lock is adjacent to the Canso Causeway. The causeway completed in 1955, connects Cape Breton Island to mainland Nova Scotia. The lock accounts for the tidal and current issues, and allowing vessels to transit the Strait of Canso.

10 million tons of granite and other rocks were harvested from the mountain face adjacent to the canal to build the causeway. The causeway is 80ft wide and is the deepest causeway in the world. The deepest point being 217 feet.

Dropped anchor in McDonalds Cove at Janvrin Island 9:00pm in light fog. Total distance travelled today 99.35 miles.

Friday, July 18, 2025 Anchor up at 2:10 pm, destination Sable Island.

Caribou, Fox Harb’r

Saturday, July 12, 2025 anchor up at 5:05am, coffee at 5:10am.🥱 Destination, Caribou. Population approximately 100 people (2024). 7:36pm anchor down in Caribou Harbour. Total miles traveled today 90.75.

In the late 1930’s, Caribou became Nova Scotia’s terminal for a seasonal ferry service to Wood Island in eastern Prince Edward Island, still operating today.

Sunset at Ferry Terminal

Sunday, July 13, 2025 anchor up at 6:02am. Stopover at Fox Harb’r Resort. Total miles traveled today 38 miles. We met Mark and Eileen, who live at Fox Harb’r, when we were in Shelburne. They invited us to the resort as their guests.

Fox Harb’r Resort was the vision of Ronald Joyce, the co- founder of Tim Hortons doughnut chain. This destination is an oceanside golf resort with many luxurious amenities including a private JetPort and Marina.

Today at Fox Harb’r is an annual invitation only networking event hosted by Frank McKenna, Deputy Chair of TD Bank Financial Group. Past guest speakers include Prime Minister John Major, President Bill Clinton and George W. Bush, Al Gore, Ambassador David Wilkins, sports legend Wayne Gretzky, Senators Edward Thompson and John Edwards. This year the guest speaker is Jean Chrétien, the 20th prime minister of Canada, serving from 1993 to 2003.

Mark took this photo of us from their house.

Mark gave us a tour of the property, afterwards we took showers at The Spa.

For dinner Eileen served grilled Rock Fish, roasted sweet potatoes, grilled Bok Choi, beet salad, and a green salad. For dessert we ordered from the restaurant on property and had it delivered.

Monday, July 14, 2025 this morning we rode 9.3 miles around the property on the resorts one speed bikes. Through the links, by the jet port and all the beautiful houses. Saw a big black mama bear with 2 cubs too!

In the afternoon, Mark and Eileen took us all to the Jōst Vineyard for lunch and wine tasting.

Dinner at Wiley’s By the Wharf.

Puffins!

Thursday, July 10, 2025 departed Baddeck at 11:30am in search of the Bird Islands, Hertford and Ciboux. These two long skinny uninhabited islands are mostly rocks and cliffs. They are 2.5 miles off Cape Dauphin on Cape Breton, in the Atlantic Ocean. Hertford Island is owned by the Nova Scotia Bird Society and is a sanctuary, Ciboux Island is owned by the province and federal government. .

Also seen were Gray Seals, Northern Gannets, Cormorants, Black Guillemot, Buffleheads, Lions Mane Jelly Fish and a flock of Seagulls chasing an adult Bald Eagle, fascinating!

Anchor dropped 6:45pm in North Bay Ingonish. Total miles traveled today 43.2.

Friday, July 11, 2025

Sunrise today was 5:19am, photo taken 5:26am

Anchor up at 5:35am. Heading west around the top of Cape Breton, then south to Chéticamp Harbour for the night. This unincorporated town is on the Cabot Trail on the west side of Cape Breton. A working fishing village with the largest French speaking community on the island.

Anchor down at 5:30pm, total miles traveled today 66.76.

Sundowners and homemade pizza with sourdough crust and salad for dinner.

Bras d’Or Lake

Monday, July 7, 2025 departed Canso at 8:15am, destination Bras d’Or Lake. At 11:20am we arrived at St. Peter’s Canal lock, which brought us up 1.5ft. After the swing bridge we turned west to St Peter’s Lions Club Marina.

Bras d’Or Lake is an irregular salt water estuary watershed with three passages to the Atlantic Ocean. Located in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia. This brackish lake is an UNESCO-designated Biosphere.

Made another grocery store run, for the few things we were distracted from and forgot to get. Also, the NSLC (Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation) was right next door… more Jōst Tidal Bay wine and Rum! All took showers and we did laundry at the marina, needed lots of quarters for laundry!

For dinner we prepared grilled pork chops marinated in olive oil and balsamic vinegar with garlic, rosemary, salt and pepper. Additionally cheesy mashed potatoes and a salad.

Tuesday, July 8, 2025 departed the marina 8:45am to West Bay, miles traveled today 21.5. On a mooring ball for the night, at the home of Louis and Robert, OCC Port Officers.

Wednesday, July 9, 2025 7am we were off the mooring ball, on our way, headed to Baddeck.

8am we passed through the Barra Strait Bridge.

Arrived in Baddeck 12:15pm. Total miles traveled today, 29.

Settled by Loyalist and Scottish Gaels in late 18th, early 19th centuries. Later the area thrived as a service and shipping community supporting mining, trapping, fishing farming and forestry. Baddeck became famous in 1874 from the travel memoir written by Charles Dudley Warner, Baddeck, And That Sort of Thing, catapulting the area as a tourist destination. Baddeck was founded in 1908. It is the beginning and end of the Cabot Trail, a 185 mile scenic highway around the northern Cape Breton Island.

The village was also home to Alexander Graham Bell, and a museum that bears his name, The Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site. At the museum, one can explore his inventions that helped build the present day world. Today’s economy in Baddeck is supported by tourism, cultural activities and services.

We are on the Baddeck Community Dock for the night. Visited the museum, walked around town, had ice cream and sent John up the mast to replace our courtesy flag halyard.

Dinner at The Freight Shed: Waterside Bistro & Market.

Onward to Canso

Friday, July 4, 2025 Happy 4th of July! 🇺🇸 Departed picturesque Lunenburg at 6:10am in the fog. Dropped anchor at 6:30pm in Southwest Cove in Owl’s Head Bay. Total miles traveled today, 72.4. For dinner I made baked meatballs with tomato sauce and peas topped with puff pastry.

Euchre anyone?
Sunset view from Trance

Saturday, July 5, 2025 anchor up at 6:15am. Dropped anchor at 7:30pm in Port Howe. Total miles traveled today, 83.

Winging it today!

Dinner tonight Chicken Cacciatore over rice.

Sunday, July 6, 2025 Happy Birthday to Me! Anchor up at 7:30am. Total miles traveled today, 13. Arrived in Canso 10:15am. Canso is an unincorporated community and is the most easterly point of mainland Nova Scotia. Centuries ago the area was a prosperous fishing and ship building town. Today you will find several trawlers, long-liners and boats fishing for tuna, lobster, shrimp and crab.

We are tied to the wall at the government wharf, directly behind The Bluenose ll! The Bluenose ll, came here earlier than scheduled as the winds were intensifying. They saw Force 8 winds (34-40knots or 39-46mph) predicted on the ocean. The wind was 20+knots offshore when we tried to tie up, two crew from the Bluenose ll ran over to help us.

Stopped at the Co-Op Canso for a few groceries, later we had dinner at AJ’s Pub. As sunset the winds were 32knots with gusts to 50!

Lunenburg

Thursday, July 3, 2025 anchor up at 6:30am another foggy, chilly morning, destination Lunenburg. Arrived about 12:30pm, on a mooring ball till tomorrow morning. Total miles traveled today, 38. Lunenburg is a fishing and shipbuilding port founded in 1753. This is a historic port town and UNESCO World Heritage Site. The towns layout is based on a grid, with original wooden buildings c. 18th century. This is typical of a planned British colonial settlement. In the town you will see several brightly colored painted buildings, many of which are tourist attractions, shops and businesses as well as private homes.

Lunenburg is also home to the Bluenose ll. Built in 1963, it is a replica of the original Bluenose. She is 161ft in length, has a 27ft beam with a draft of 16 ft. Serves as a sailing ambassador promoting Nova Scotia’s tourism and maritime heritage, continuing the legacy of the original schooner. The Bluenose launched March 26, 1921, a two masted sailing fishing schooner, undefeated in international sailing competition for the 17 years she raced. She is a symbol of Nova Scotia’s distinction in fishing and shipbuilding, representing Canada around the world. The Bluenose ll was not in port during our visit, we may cross her pass as we continue northeast. The Bluenose is also depicted on the Canadian dime.

Halifax

Tuesday, July 1, 2025 🇨🇦 Happy Canada Day! Departed the Northwest Arm around 8:30am, waved goodbye to Peter and Wendy. Traveled up Halifax Harbour to Bedford Basin.

Arrived at Bedford Basin Yacht Club at 10:30am, on a mooring ball. Total miles traveled today 12. Later found a laundromat nearby, spent several hours there.

Spin Cycle Laundry

After putting away our clean clothes, we went back to club house. It’s Canada Day. There were fun sailing races, a cookout, boat parade (Dan went along on a club members boat for the parade) and scheduled fireworks that were postponed due to fog.

Dan and I hung out at the bar in the club waiting for our friends John and Joy, they are flying into Halifax tonight. The club closed at 9:30pm, continued waiting on Trance.

Greg and Matt, best club bartenders

My cousins husband Ron, graciously offered to pick them up. Many thanks Ron! Their flight was delayed 4.5 hours due to thunderstorms in Boston. They arrived on Trance at 2:45am.

Wednesday, July 2, 2025 at 10:30, departed Bedford, going to downtown Halifax.

There are several free day docks available. We received a berthing pass for the day. Had a fabulous Lunch at Salt + Ash, walked the waterfront, then up to the Halifax Citadel Historic Site. Canada Strong Pass, offers free admission from June 20 to September 2, 2025 to Canadian National Parks, National Marine Conservation Areas and National Historic Sites.

Left the dock in Halifax around 4pm. Anchoring for the night in Ketch Harbour at 6:15pm. Total miles traveled today, 24. For dinner I made One Pot Chicken Burrito Bowl, with optional toppings of grated cheddar cheese and salsa, so good!

Sunset on Sketchy (Ketch) Harbour

St Margarets Bay again

Friday, June 27, 2025 Our destination is Hubbards, St Margarets Bay, along with s/v Henry, for the night or 2, the forecast for tomorrow is rain. Total miles traveled today, 27. We both picked up mooring balls in front of the Tuna Blue Inn & Restaurant, made reservations for dinner. The food was great and there was live music too!

Saturday, June 28, 2025 chilly rainy day today. We had dinner aboard s/v Henry. Wendy made a pasta dish incorporating salmon and green vegetables. I baked an apple, blueberry crisp for dessert, it was almost all gone!

Sunday, June 29, 2025 departed Hubbards around 10 am. It’s a chilly, rainy, foggy, wind on the nose, bashing waves kind of morning. Henry is just off our port bow.

We cruised through two anchorages on the eastern shore, they were either too rocky or not enough room for two 45ft sailboats. Crossed the bay then dropped anchor in Southwest Cove. There are several mooring balls in here along with two other sailboats. Very calm, good holding. Henry picked up a mooring ball. Total miles traveled today 14.

Monday, June 30, 2025 departed the peaceful cove at 9:30am. Did a drive by of the Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse. We were seen on the webcam, my friend Jackie from high school took a screenshot of us.

Sambro Island Lighthouse, built in 1758, stands at the entrance to Halifax Harbour. Canada’s oldest surviving lighthouse.

Anchored in the Northwest Arm of Halifax Harbour at 4pm, near Melville Island. Total miles traveled today 35. Going to Armdale Yacht Club, on the island, for dinner with Peter and Wendy from s/v Henry.

Mahone Bay, continued

Tuesday, June 24, 2025 anchor up at 12:15, destination Young Island. Total miles traveled 4.5. We visited with Peter and Terry, Ocean Cruising Club members. Peter is a “Port Officer.” Officers are a resource to visiting yachts regarding local information. Dan and I walked a bit of the island till the mosquitos were getting to me. Later we had dinner with them at their house.

Wednesday, June 25, 2025, 9:30am departed Young Island for Chandlers Cove in Chester Harbour, arriving 10:45am, traveling 4.5 miles today. We are anchored just off the Chester Golf Club along with Peter and Wendy on s/v Henry.

The four of us went to dinner in Chester, a picturesque sleepy town, at Fo’c’sle, Nova Scotia’s Oldest Pub dating back to the 1760’s. We had such a great time, great food, and conversation. At 9pm were asked to leave as the restaurant, they had actually closed at 8pm. Night caps aboard Henry.

Thursday, June 26, 2025 after several attempts and a few choice words, Dan finally was able to get the water maker running again! It is now producing the best and most water ever.

Cocktails on our boat tonight, then hamburgers at the Chester Yacht Club.

Chester Yacht Club

Friday, June 27, 2025 Peter stopped over at 8am. He and Dan investigated a fresh water leak we have. Several quick-disconnect fittings on our hot water heater were leaking. They were all removed and hoses were attached directly to the heater. So far so good!

Departed the anchorage at 10am. Headed towards Deep Cove, in Mahone Bay, to do a “drive by.”

Then over to St. Margarets Bay again.

Mahone Bay, again

Monday, June 23, 2025 departed St Margarets Bay at 8:30am, going back to explore Mahone Bay a bit more. Total miles travelled today 26. Arrived in Mahone Bay Village at 1pm. We dropped anchor at the end of the mooring field, the Mahone Bay Civic Marina office is only open on weekends until July. We could not reserve a mooring for today.

The dinghy dock was short ride from TRANCE. We took our handy wagon in town to pick up a few items the grocery store. While in town, dinner reservations were made at the Mug and Anchor Pub for 6 people. Us, people on the boat in front of us Peter and Wendy from the UK, we invited to join us, plus 2 people who live here, Fred and Mina, Dan had arranged to get together with them. We are all members of the Ocean Cruising Club. Flying your Ocean Cruising Club burgee makes it easy to identify other members.

Up the river beyond the grocery store you will find scenic view of The Three Churches.

When Peter and Wendy arrived at the restaurant they realized along with Fred and Mina they had all previously met each other in the Caribbean, fun reunion!