Lobsters and Hot Water

Sunday, July 27, 2025 Kris and Ron picked us up this morning we did a “Costco run”, picked up a few food items for TRANCE. Afterwards we went to Fisherman’s Cove, purchased lobsters for lunch. Went back to their house, cooked them up. Had a great afternoon!

Monday, July 28, 2025 grocery store trip this morning, 2.5 mile walk round trip. Purchases perishable items. Took an Uber to a The Binnacle, a marine store, to purchase a new water heater for TRANCE, it was leaking. Dan had to notch out the fiberglass to get the new unit to fit. He spent 8 hours working on the installation.

Tuesday, July 29, 2025 took an Uber to a Stellar Industrial, a mechanical parts shop, to purchase 15’ of wet exhaust hose that will connect the new water heater to the Yanmar engine. The old hose leaked, wasn’t long enough to cut the ends off to reuse it.

Another 4 hours of work today. All connected and working… No more leaks! Clean up time! Ron dropped-off some engine oil late afternoon and then we went to Rudy & Olive’s Fish and Chips for dinner.

Wednesday, July 30, 2025 laundry day.

There was sailboat racing tonight, and a food truck at the club. Dan was able to crew on a boat, I had pulled pork tacos.

Thursday, July 31, 2025 Ron picked us up in the afternoon for another Costco run, this time to get our propane tank refilled. Later, Dan changed the engine oil. For dinner I made Fajita Chicken with peppers. Continued bingeing Ginny & Georgia.

Friday, August 1, 2025 visit to Wolfville, in the valley, with my cousins. We visited three wineries. Benjamin Bridge, Planters Ridge and Domain de Grand Pré.

Gunkholing

Saturday, July 19, 2025

9:27pm

Sunday, July 20, 2025Liscomb River Arrived at Liscombe Lodge at 1:30pm, total miles traveled 111.29.

Liscomb Island Lighthouse

Walked around the property then dinner at the restaurant here.

Monday, July 21, 2025 Spanish Ship Bay Departed Liscombe Lodge at 11:36am. Traveled 5 miles anchored for the night in Spanish Ship Bay next to Charles Island. Strong winds are forecasted for tonight.

Balsamic Chicken with Peppers over rice for dinner.

Tuesday, July 22, 2025 Shelter Cove Anchor up 9:30am from Spanish Ship Bay, dropped anchor at 3:30pm for the night in Shelter Cove. Total miles traveled today 35.4.

Sausage, peppers and onions with orzo for dinner.

Wednesday, July 23, 2025 – Jeddore Anchor up at 9:20am from Shelter Cove. Arrived at 1:55pm, total miles traveled today, 25. On a mooring ball for three nights at Jeddore. OCC port officer John came to TRANCE for a delightful visit, we are on one of his moorings. Very Strong South winds are forecasted the next three days, we are in a good place.

Thursday, July 24, 2025 what do you do when the winds are 20+ knots with frequent gusts over 30 on a mooring ball?

1. Clean the teak rails! First they were washed and scrubbed to remove the gray build up, hours of salt and grime.

2. Inventory food, made a shopping list

3. Continued to binge downloaded Netflix series Ginny & Georgia

Pesto pasta chicken for dinner.

Friday, July 25, 2025 more high winds forecasted for today, ugh!

More teak maintenance, applied sealer.

Teak Rails Sealed

Not my favorite days, stuck with too much wind. It is what it is. Two days of cleaning teak. Continued with our Netflix binge.

Saturday, July 26, 2025 departed the mooring ball at 9:00am. Arrived at Bedford Basin Yacht Club at 3:20pm. Total miles traveled today 39.3 miles. On a mooring ball for the week. s/v Henry is here, Peter and Wendy’s son Will was in the boat. The three of us walked to il Mercato Italian restaurant for dinner.

Sable Island National Park Reserve

Saturday, July 19, 2025

Anchor dropped at 7:35am on the North shore. Total miles traveled 110. It was a half mile dingy ride to shore from TRANCE. By 8:30am we were on Sable Island. When we arrived, we were greeted by 2 parks employees. All the parks staff were super friendly.

Sable Island is a windswept crescent shaped sandbar, 26 miles long and 0.75 miles at the widest point. It is 160 nautical miles from mainland Nova Scotia in the North Atlantic Ocean. Graveyard of the Atlantic was a nickname for Sable Island. Since 1583 there have been more than 350 shipwrecks on the island.

When walking around the island we walked only on the paths through the marram grass created by the horses as to not disturb the vegetation. Marram grass covers 3/4 of the island.

There are numerous fresh water ponds formed by rain and snow. The precipitation seeps into the sandy soil, forming a freshwater reservoir. Saltwater is more dense than freshwater, allowing the freshwater to float above it.

Home to the Ipswich Sparrow, a subspecies of the Savannah Sparrow, nest nowhere else in the world.

Ipswich Sparrow

The island is home to the largest breeding colony of Grey Seals. Tens of thousands arrive in the winter. Birds are also in abundance.

Grey Seal

Wild horses roam freely, feeding primarily on the marram grass. Brought to the island in the 1700’s, they have developed into a distinct breed. They receive no veterinary services and live off the land.

Anchor up at 5:42pm quite an exhausting yet wonderful day!

Charlottetown, PEI

Tuesday, July 15, 2025 John and Joy departed TRANCE this morning, Mark gave them a ride to Halifax to catch their flight this afternoon. We are waiting till high tide to leave as the inlet is shallow.

John, Joy, me and Dan

Departed Fox Harb’r at 1:20pm. 5:56pm arrived in Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island at the Charlottetown Yacht Club. Total miles travelled today 26.7.

Walked around the waterfront then stopped at Peake’s Quay for dinner.

Wednesday, July 16, 2025 PEI in one day! Walked to Sobeys grocery store with our wagon to provision for 5 days. It was a 3.3 mile round trip walk. Lunch on TRANCE.

Throughout the waterfront and downtown area, there are three self guided walking tours you can follow. Painted stripes on the edge of the sidewalk are yellow for shops and services, red is the Historic walk and green the Waterfront walk.

We followed the red line. First stop was Cow’s for ice cream. Best ice cream I’ve ever had!

COFFEE COWRUNCH
Rich coffee ice cream, English toffee swirl, and Oreo pieces.

Continuing along our red line, stopped at Juice Co., I had water, Dan had a berry smoothie. We signed the antique ice cream cart as the sign above said “Where are you from?”

There were several houses and buildings along our route that are designated National Historic Sites of Canada.


Charlottetown City Hall c.1888, still in use today.

The Charlottetown Conference in September of 1864, was a pivotal meeting of provincial delegates that laid the groundwork for the Confederation of Canada. This meeting ultimately lead to the birth of the Dominion of Canada.

Total miles walked following the red line, 2.1. Had dinner at Brakish Dockside Bar and Eatery.

Thursday, July 17, 2025 departed Charlottetown Yacht Club at 5:50am.

Transited the Canso Canal at 7:15pm, mean low tide on both sides of the lock, we barely moved. The lock master had us hover in the center instead of being tied to the wall.

The Canso Canal lock is adjacent to the Canso Causeway. The causeway completed in 1955, connects Cape Breton Island to mainland Nova Scotia. The lock accounts for the tidal and current issues, and allowing vessels to transit the Strait of Canso.

10 million tons of granite and other rocks were harvested from the mountain face adjacent to the canal to build the causeway. The causeway is 80ft wide and is the deepest causeway in the world. The deepest point being 217 feet.

Dropped anchor in McDonalds Cove at Janvrin Island 9:00pm in light fog. Total distance travelled today 99.35 miles.

Friday, July 18, 2025 Anchor up at 2:10 pm, destination Sable Island.

Caribou, Fox Harb’r

Saturday, July 12, 2025 anchor up at 5:05am, coffee at 5:10am.🥱 Destination, Caribou. Population approximately 100 people (2024). 7:36pm anchor down in Caribou Harbour. Total miles traveled today 90.75.

In the late 1930’s, Caribou became Nova Scotia’s terminal for a seasonal ferry service to Wood Island in eastern Prince Edward Island, still operating today.

Sunset at Ferry Terminal

Sunday, July 13, 2025 anchor up at 6:02am. Stopover at Fox Harb’r Resort. Total miles traveled today 38 miles. We met Mark and Eileen, who live at Fox Harb’r, when we were in Shelburne. They invited us to the resort as their guests.

Fox Harb’r Resort was the vision of Ronald Joyce, the co- founder of Tim Hortons doughnut chain. This destination is an oceanside golf resort with many luxurious amenities including a private JetPort and Marina.

Today at Fox Harb’r is an annual invitation only networking event hosted by Frank McKenna, Deputy Chair of TD Bank Financial Group. Past guest speakers include Prime Minister John Major, President Bill Clinton and George W. Bush, Al Gore, Ambassador David Wilkins, sports legend Wayne Gretzky, Senators Edward Thompson and John Edwards. This year the guest speaker is Jean Chrétien, the 20th prime minister of Canada, serving from 1993 to 2003.

Mark took this photo of us from their house.

Mark gave us a tour of the property, afterwards we took showers at The Spa.

For dinner Eileen served grilled Rock Fish, roasted sweet potatoes, grilled Bok Choi, beet salad, and a green salad. For dessert we ordered from the restaurant on property and had it delivered.

Monday, July 14, 2025 this morning we rode 9.3 miles around the property on the resorts one speed bikes. Through the links, by the jet port and all the beautiful houses. Saw a big black mama bear with 2 cubs too!

In the afternoon, Mark and Eileen took us all to the Jōst Vineyard for lunch and wine tasting.

Dinner at Wiley’s By the Wharf.

Puffins!

Thursday, July 10, 2025 departed Baddeck at 11:30am in search of the Bird Islands, Hertford and Ciboux. These two long skinny uninhabited islands are mostly rocks and cliffs. They are 2.5 miles off Cape Dauphin on Cape Breton, in the Atlantic Ocean. Hertford Island is owned by the Nova Scotia Bird Society and is a sanctuary, Ciboux Island is owned by the province and federal government. .

Also seen were Gray Seals, Northern Gannets, Cormorants, Black Guillemot, Buffleheads, Lions Mane Jelly Fish and a flock of Seagulls chasing an adult Bald Eagle, fascinating!

Anchor dropped 6:45pm in North Bay Ingonish. Total miles traveled today 43.2.

Friday, July 11, 2025

Sunrise today was 5:19am, photo taken 5:26am

Anchor up at 5:35am. Heading west around the top of Cape Breton, then south to Chéticamp Harbour for the night. This unincorporated town is on the Cabot Trail on the west side of Cape Breton. A working fishing village with the largest French speaking community on the island.

Anchor down at 5:30pm, total miles traveled today 66.76.

Sundowners and homemade pizza with sourdough crust and salad for dinner.

Bras d’Or Lake

Monday, July 7, 2025 departed Canso at 8:15am, destination Bras d’Or Lake. At 11:20am we arrived at St. Peter’s Canal lock, which brought us up 1.5ft. After the swing bridge we turned west to St Peter’s Lions Club Marina.

Bras d’Or Lake is an irregular salt water estuary watershed with three passages to the Atlantic Ocean. Located in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia. This brackish lake is an UNESCO-designated Biosphere.

Made another grocery store run, for the few things we were distracted from and forgot to get. Also, the NSLC (Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation) was right next door… more Jōst Tidal Bay wine and Rum! All took showers and we did laundry at the marina, needed lots of quarters for laundry!

For dinner we prepared grilled pork chops marinated in olive oil and balsamic vinegar with garlic, rosemary, salt and pepper. Additionally cheesy mashed potatoes and a salad.

Tuesday, July 8, 2025 departed the marina 8:45am to West Bay, miles traveled today 21.5. On a mooring ball for the night, at the home of Louis and Robert, OCC Port Officers.

Wednesday, July 9, 2025 7am we were off the mooring ball, on our way, headed to Baddeck.

8am we passed through the Barra Strait Bridge.

Arrived in Baddeck 12:15pm. Total miles traveled today, 29.

Settled by Loyalist and Scottish Gaels in late 18th, early 19th centuries. Later the area thrived as a service and shipping community supporting mining, trapping, fishing farming and forestry. Baddeck became famous in 1874 from the travel memoir written by Charles Dudley Warner, Baddeck, And That Sort of Thing, catapulting the area as a tourist destination. Baddeck was founded in 1908. It is the beginning and end of the Cabot Trail, a 185 mile scenic highway around the northern Cape Breton Island.

The village was also home to Alexander Graham Bell, and a museum that bears his name, The Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site. At the museum, one can explore his inventions that helped build the present day world. Today’s economy in Baddeck is supported by tourism, cultural activities and services.

We are on the Baddeck Community Dock for the night. Visited the museum, walked around town, had ice cream and sent John up the mast to replace our courtesy flag halyard.

Dinner at The Freight Shed: Waterside Bistro & Market.

Onward to Canso

Friday, July 4, 2025 Happy 4th of July! 🇺🇸 Departed picturesque Lunenburg at 6:10am in the fog. Dropped anchor at 6:30pm in Southwest Cove in Owl’s Head Bay. Total miles traveled today, 72.4. For dinner I made baked meatballs with tomato sauce and peas topped with puff pastry.

Euchre anyone?
Sunset view from Trance

Saturday, July 5, 2025 anchor up at 6:15am. Dropped anchor at 7:30pm in Port Howe. Total miles traveled today, 83.

Winging it today!

Dinner tonight Chicken Cacciatore over rice.

Sunday, July 6, 2025 Happy Birthday to Me! Anchor up at 7:30am. Total miles traveled today, 13. Arrived in Canso 10:15am. Canso is an unincorporated community and is the most easterly point of mainland Nova Scotia. Centuries ago the area was a prosperous fishing and ship building town. Today you will find several trawlers, long-liners and boats fishing for tuna, lobster, shrimp and crab.

We are tied to the wall at the government wharf, directly behind The Bluenose ll! The Bluenose ll, came here earlier than scheduled as the winds were intensifying. They saw Force 8 winds (34-40knots or 39-46mph) predicted on the ocean. The wind was 20+knots offshore when we tried to tie up, two crew from the Bluenose ll ran over to help us.

Stopped at the Co-Op Canso for a few groceries, later we had dinner at AJ’s Pub. As sunset the winds were 32knots with gusts to 50!

Lunenburg

Thursday, July 3, 2025 anchor up at 6:30am another foggy, chilly morning, destination Lunenburg. Arrived about 12:30pm, on a mooring ball till tomorrow morning. Total miles traveled today, 38. Lunenburg is a fishing and shipbuilding port founded in 1753. This is a historic port town and UNESCO World Heritage Site. The towns layout is based on a grid, with original wooden buildings c. 18th century. This is typical of a planned British colonial settlement. In the town you will see several brightly colored painted buildings, many of which are tourist attractions, shops and businesses as well as private homes.

Lunenburg is also home to the Bluenose ll. Built in 1963, it is a replica of the original Bluenose. She is 161ft in length, has a 27ft beam with a draft of 16 ft. Serves as a sailing ambassador promoting Nova Scotia’s tourism and maritime heritage, continuing the legacy of the original schooner. The Bluenose launched March 26, 1921, a two masted sailing fishing schooner, undefeated in international sailing competition for the 17 years she raced. She is a symbol of Nova Scotia’s distinction in fishing and shipbuilding, representing Canada around the world. The Bluenose ll was not in port during our visit, we may cross her pass as we continue northeast. The Bluenose is also depicted on the Canadian dime.

Halifax

Tuesday, July 1, 2025 🇨🇦 Happy Canada Day! Departed the Northwest Arm around 8:30am, waved goodbye to Peter and Wendy. Traveled up Halifax Harbour to Bedford Basin.

Arrived at Bedford Basin Yacht Club at 10:30am, on a mooring ball. Total miles traveled today 12. Later found a laundromat nearby, spent several hours there.

Spin Cycle Laundry

After putting away our clean clothes, we went back to club house. It’s Canada Day. There were fun sailing races, a cookout, boat parade (Dan went along on a club members boat for the parade) and scheduled fireworks that were postponed due to fog.

Dan and I hung out at the bar in the club waiting for our friends John and Joy, they are flying into Halifax tonight. The club closed at 9:30pm, continued waiting on Trance.

Greg and Matt, best club bartenders

My cousins husband Ron, graciously offered to pick them up. Many thanks Ron! Their flight was delayed 4.5 hours due to thunderstorms in Boston. They arrived on Trance at 2:45am.

Wednesday, July 2, 2025 at 10:30, departed Bedford, going to downtown Halifax.

There are several free day docks available. We received a berthing pass for the day. Had a fabulous Lunch at Salt + Ash, walked the waterfront, then up to the Halifax Citadel Historic Site. Canada Strong Pass, offers free admission from June 20 to September 2, 2025 to Canadian National Parks, National Marine Conservation Areas and National Historic Sites.

Left the dock in Halifax around 4pm. Anchoring for the night in Ketch Harbour at 6:15pm. Total miles traveled today, 24. For dinner I made One Pot Chicken Burrito Bowl, with optional toppings of grated cheddar cheese and salsa, so good!

Sunset on Sketchy (Ketch) Harbour