Reunion Island

Thursday September 30, it’s great to back on land again! shortly after docking at the Marina Titan in Le Port, customs officers arrived at the boat. I had previously completed required forms and sent to them via email. This check-in was the quickest ever. Passports stamped!

Reunion Island has no Indigenous peoples. It was an uninhabited island until 1646 when a group of mutineers fleeing from Madagascar arrived. 20 years later, the French arrived with slaves. Around 1715 there was an economic boom, as a result of coffee exports. In 1763 the population was 22,000 total inhabitants – 4,000 whites, 18,000 slaves. 1796 brought the end to slavery in the Southern Hemisphere. Then in 1802 at the end of the French Revolution, Napoleon re-established slavery. 1807 brought floods and cyclones destroying coffee plants, then sugar cane became the popular crop. 1848 brought the end of slavery, again. 1870 there was an economic crisis with the opening of the Suez Canal, ending the desire for ships to stop at Reunion Island. March 19, 1946 colonialism ends, and Reunion officially becomes a French Overseas Department. The official currency is the Euro, 2013 population 850,000. Today the island is approximately 36% African, 30% European, 30% Indian, 4% Asiatic.

Midmorning we walked to the other side of the basin where there are a few marine stores. Always in search of boat parts!

We stopped for lunch at a restaurant in the area. Everything was in French, but chef was kind enough to help translate for us. Google translate would not identify the handwritten chalkboard menu.

For dinner, we walked to a tapas bar, Bistrot à l’abordage, for drinks and food.

Friday October 1, laundry day. We actually found a coin operated laundromat! Lately we’ve used laundry services, as that’s what was only available. On our way there we stopped at A laVille du Port for raspberry croissants.

At the laundromat, I met a woman named Florelle. She was very helpful interpreting the signs. The machines take tokens rather than money, you buy tokens from a coin exchange machine on the wall. We had a lovely conversation via google translate. She grows the most beautiful hibiscus and orchids!

Saturday October 2, boat washing morning, to get all the Indian Ocean salt off! Later we walked into town with wagon in tow. Destination the grocery store. Nothing we really needed, just wanted to check it out. We did pick-up a few items; eggs, juice, lunch meat, wine. Almost all stores close 1 or 2 hours at noon for lunch.

Sunday October 3, stores and restaurants are closed on Sundays, so it was quite a lazy relaxing day. A few boat projects for Dan, I spent a good amount of time investigating different blog templates. I wanted to add a sidebar with archived posts by months. I like the new layout, looks best via a computer… hope you do too.

Monday October 4, Le Rebelle arrived here in Le Port this morning.

A good resource on what to do when we arrive anywhere, is a stop at the Tourist Information center. We picked-up several pamphlets and maps.

For lunch we stopped at La Petite Brasserie. I had a Caesar salad (leftovers for dinner), Dan had raw tuna. The presentation, service and food was excellent!

Tuesday October 6, we picked-up a rental car, we’ll have it for at least week. Dan drove to marine store to purchase the bulky items too big to carry, like 160 feet of rope for new Genoa sheets.

Later we drove to the mall, where there is a very large Carrefour grocery store. Larger than the one Papeete, Tahiti!

Wednesday October 6, every Wednesday morning there is a fabulous farmer’s market across from the Paroisse Sainte Jeanne d’Arc church.

Later we repaired the bimini tear. It is difficult to remover the canvas panel to machine sew it, since we would have to remove the third solar panel. As a result, together we hand sewed it.🧵

Week 3 – West to Reunion Island

Friday September 24, Day – 15, Total nautical miles traveled 2572, 178 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours. 53 days at sea since leaving Fiji.

We’ve noticed some drips of water inside the cabin, we believe are due to the chain plates. The shrouds which are wires that hold up the mast are connected to “chain plates” that are secured to the hull of the boat. At this connection point there is caulking sealant to keep water from seeping down into the hull. We should have had them resealed in Fiji.

Oh that wind! We are in the middle of a compression zone between a South Indian High and a Low, winds at 20knots gusts to 25+.

*Sourdough Notes* last night I started the Levain, mix and stretches this morning then baked a Belle loaf.

Saturday September 25, Day – 16, Total nautical miles traveled 2763, 191 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

For dinner we had mashed potatoes (instant), green beans and smoked pink salmon. It’s easier eating from a bowl on a moving boat.

Sunday September 26, Day – 17, Total nautical miles traveled 2952, 189 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Strawberry pancakes for breakfast, using dehydrated strawberries.

Monday September 27, Day – 18, Total nautical miles traveled 3125, 173 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Another new noise, this one resulted in me screaming. It was a loud thud, the wind generator fell off the mount. Another failed weld. The platform attached to the arch broke. Luckily Dan had attached a bungee cord to the tail to keep it pointed at the wind as the waves were making it spin, thus not working properly. This bungee cord prevented the unit from falling into ocean. However it tore the sunbrella canvas of the Bimini. On our passage from California to Hawaii, 13 months ago, a weld broke on the base of the support bracket resulting in the unit ending up deep into the Pacific Ocean $$$$.

For dinner, smoked salmon patties with fried potatoes.

Oh my the stars, the Milky Way, the Southern Cross!!!

Tuesday September 28, Day – 19, Total nautical miles traveled 3308, 183 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

And another sound heard. The Genoa fluttered like we needed to adjust course, the numbers all looked good. Then we realized the halyard broke! With life jacket and tether on, Dan attached the spinnaker halyard to Genoa, we raised it back up. In about 15 knots of wind, and 3 meter waves.

On the menu for dinner, bow tie pasta tossed in sun dried tomatoes, onions and chicken.

Wednesday September 29, Day – 20, Total nautical miles traveled 3476, 168 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

New time zone, Saint-Denis, Reunion Island, GMT+4, 12:15pm Wednesday, 4:15am Wednesday in Philadelphia.

Dinner was, well I saw this recipe that looked so good. It was a barbecue chicken pasta salad. However, the only ingredients on the boat were the pasta, chicken, corn and BBQ sauce, this was an improv version.

Thursday September 30, Day – 21, Total nautical miles traveled 3619, 143 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours. 59 days at sea, days on the boat, since leaving Fiji.

Arrived at La Reunion Island, 8:00am, at Port de la Pointe des Galets, 3637 Total trip miles. 20 days, Averages 182 miles per day, 7.6 knots per hour boat speed.

Week 2 – West to Reunion Island

Friday September 17, Day – 8, Total nautical miles traveled 1299, 187 (3 days in a row, same distance) nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours. 46 days at sea since leaving Fiji.

A new time zone today, GMT+6. Same as Dhaka, Bangladesh. 7:30am Friday, 9:30 pm Thursday in Philadelphia.

Since departing Indonesia 8 days ago, we’ve had big winds, over 20knots gust even higher (based on observations)and big waves 9-12 ft with swells where the water breaks at the top like a surf. At least once a day a wave has crashed into the cockpit, basically like we’re sailing a washing machine. We’re on the edge of a Pacific high pressure system.

A 981 ft cargo ship past by going the opposite direction just under 2 miles away, became hidden behind the waves. To be honest, I’m not enjoying this passage at all!

*Sourdough Notes* baked a Belle loaf, mixing ingredients requires 4 hands so things don’t spill. Dan additionally requested banana bread, this also is a two person task.

Saturday September 18, Day – 9, Total nautical miles traveled 1476, 177 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Sunday September 19, Day – 10, Total nautical miles traveled 1649, 173 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours. The gray areas below represent areas we did not download maps for, or there are no downloadable maps as it’s just water, no islands.

Monday September 20, Day – 11, Total nautical miles traveled 1831, 182 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Finally a little relief from the wind and especially the waves, blue sky and sunny too.

For dinner, I cooked a chicken breast and shredded it, adding some Sweet Baby Rays barbecue sauce along with potatoes fried in Wegmans basting oil (yes, I have a little left!)

Tuesday September 21, Day – 12, Total nautical miles traveled 2019, 188 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Cookie bar baking day, one tray of chocolate chip, the other oatmeal raisin. Another 2 person task. I lined the cookie sheet with parchment paper for easy clean up.

New noises need investigation. Dan found a loose nut on the autopilot, that fell off while tightening it, falling deep in the lazarette. I was able to find a new one in the box of nuts and bolts.

We are heading a little south for a few days to avoid the waves and high winds from a Pacific low system that is skirting west just north of us. Low pressure systems can develop into cyclones.

For dinner we made Burrito bowls; chicken, black beans, roasted corn, salsa with Mexican spice over rice.

Wednesday September 22, Day – 13, Total nautical miles traveled 2209, 190 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours. Still big waves and wind, ugh!

Thursday September 23, Day – 14, Total nautical miles traveled 2394,185 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

It’s already been a fortnight, looks like 5 more days of this wind and waves. The plus is our speed.

New time zone GMT+5, same time as in Karachi, Pakistan. 1:30 pm Thursday, 4:30 am Thursday, Philadelphia.

For dinner we made a vegetarian chill, using a dehydrated yellow pepper and some celery, topped with cheddar cheese. In the summer of 2019, I purchased a dehydrator to dehydrate vegetables and some fruit specifically for long passages, this being one, of our journey. They add an extra special added flavor when all the fresh produce has been consumed.

Week 1- West to Reunion Island

Friday September 10, Day – 1by 7:00am we were off the mooring ball.

We “flew” out of the Lombok Strait with 3+ knots of positive current, reaching 12 knots speed over ground a few times.

While leaving Marina del Ray, we observed well over a hundred of these boats in the distance. At first, we thought it was early morning racing. Yet, as we passed by closer, we realized these 1 and 2 person “spider boats” were all out fishing.

We are using a weather person, Des Cason who is based in South Africa, to cross the Indian Ocean to South Africa. Once a day we email him our position, boat speed and course over ground. Dan created a group text to him including s/v Falbala, sailing from New Caledonia and s/v Le Rebelle who departed Lombok a day before us.

We are all within a day or so of each other at this time.

Saturday September 11, Day – 2, Happy Birthday Kevin!

142 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

For dinner I made a one pot meal of potatoes, onions, red and green peppers, garlic and beef. Sautéed in olive oil with salt, pepper, Rosemary and Thyme.

Sunday September 12, Day -3, Total nautical miles traveled 324, 182 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

The vang broke this morning. A vang is the block and tackle system that prevents the boom from rising up. A quick release shackle on the end of a pulley broke. Another salty rust casualty. MacGyver Dan to the rescue.

For dinner I used the leftover beef from yesterday, added a can of beef broth, 1/2 can water, a small can of each carrots and corn and a can of stewed tomatoes cut up, Italian seasoning and extra rosemary. Once it boiled I added Orzo pasta.

Monday September 13, Day – 4, Total nautical miles traveled 529, 205 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours! That’s 8.54 nautical miles average per hour, that a personal best!

15 Flying fish landed on the boat overnight. We think they are attracted to the bow lights like bugs.

*Sourdough Notes* making a Belle loaf this morning, started the Levain last night at midnight, the end of my watch.

Also baking chocolate chip cookie bars, per request from Dan. Bars are less work as I can only bake 6 cookies at one time.

Early evening we received a radio call from Australian Birder Force, probably because we are within 20 miles of Christmas Island, an Australian territory.

Tuesday September 14, Day – 5, Total nautical miles traveled 738 , 209 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours, another personal best! The sailing conditions have been perfect!

We are in a new time zone, same as Jakarta, Indonesia GMT+7, 8am Tuesday, 9pm Monday in Philadelphia. Now Trance is physically half way around the world.

Wednesday September 15, Day – 6, 44 days at sea. Total nautical miles traveled 925, 187 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

It’s been gray and cloudy, windy yet no rain. We saw blue sky today, first time in 4 days. With increased wind, but don’t know much. There are more white caps and bigger waves, with ripples on the water. The wind was howling through the rigging. The ocean is angry. We rolled in staysail and double reefed the other 2. Our speed is still high 7 to low 8 knots. Our weather router says this pattern should last about 3-4 days.

Thursday September 16, Day – 7, Total nautical miles traveled 1112, 187 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Indonesia

Saturday September 4, We made it! Confined to the boat, maybe for the duration while we are here. The country may reopen September 7, but then we’ll need 8 days of quarantine and 2 COVID PCR test $$ before we can go ashore. The plan is to depart around September 10. Our timeline is centered around cyclone season in Indian Ocean, which begins in November. We’ll sail to Reunion Island from here then on to South Africa.

Eron from the marina stopped by our boat, he took our trash and laundry. We arranged with him to get fuel next week. They will also provision for us, we’re working on a list.

Cleaning day. We freshwater rinsed the salt off the boat deck. Also washed the galley floor and wood floor in the salon.

Our friend Judy we met at Shelter Bay Marina in Panama, asked about my sourdough bread, here’s the story.

While in Sitka, Alaska, we met this couple who saw our “Seven Seas” flag flying on our boat, as they too we members. She was telling me about a book she wrote, “Sourdough, A Beginner’s Guide For Vegans”, under the pen name of Iris Blume. I had never thought about making bread as we basically were coastal cruising at that point, stores were never far away.

I did a little research and created a sourdough “starter”. It failed, but I was still determined. I found an online class from the “Sourdough Schoolhouse” based in British Columbia, Canada. They offered at that time a free trial online zoom class, which I took in Anacortes, Washington while getting the boat repaired. Our sail to Hawaii was rough, while feeding my starter one day it spilled all over the counter. That was the end of that.

When in Maui, I googled sourdough starter and found Maui Artisan Sourdough. I contacted him as he was in Lahaina and so were we, and arranged to purchase dehydrated starter from him. I purchased the Sourdough 101 course from “Schoolhouse”. It’s been great! They have a closed Facebook group for enrolled students and also offer call in sessions with questions. There are also videos with the process. They offer other classes you can take like pasta and pastries, I most likely will do that when we return home.

The tropics have a few challenges as sourdough bread making is temperature dependent and it’s very warm there. I’ve had adjust my bulk fermentation times shorter and even refrigerate the dough for an hour to slow it down. I bake the bread now in 9 x 4 loaf pan as Dan likes that shape better than the round loaf. Now I typically bake a loaf per week or so.

Sunday September 5, fuel arrived unexpectedly in the morning, we thought it would be delivered during the week.

Sail repair #1, the staysail. Patches were add to two places where Genoa sheets, when the Genoa was poled out, chaffed on the sacrificial sunbrella on the staysail. Lesson learned, keep the lazy sheet looser. The second was a 62” strip along the edge of the foot of the sail. Not my neatest job but functional. There is a slight burr on the sewing machine hook, caused by needle breakage, this often results in skipped stitches and or the thread fraying. I have filed the hook many times.

With the wind picking up, we kept the sail on the deck, we will wait to repair the other two sails for less windy day.

Monday September 6, dinghy chaps repair. Wow, this took all day!

First two patches were added to cover a couple of tears. We then cut strips of sunbrella and added about 4” to the depth on the sides. Shock cord was added at the bottom so it goes under the gray bumper lip. When purchased, the cover had Velcro glued to the vinyl to hold it in place, which came “un-glued”.

Tuesday September 7, completed our shopping list for the marina. I could get used to having a personal food shopper. Hope they select good items, we tried to be very specific. Also, our laundry was returned all clean a folded so nicely.

We met another boat here, they are from France who also know our friends on Falbala. Lionel and Yamile on s/v Le Rebelle. They were sailing here from Raiatea, French Polynesia when Indonesia closed and were unaware of the situation. After much effort to convince immigration to let them in, they gave up. Plan to leave here Thursday for Reunion Island.

Shirley Carter in her little yellow boat s/v Speedwell of Hong Kong, arrived here today. It was good to see her. She departed 3 weeks before us from Fiji.

Wednesday September 8, Sail repair #2, the Genoa. At some point the leach line broke, it’s a line within the leach of sail to minimize its flutter, the leach of the sail has been fluttering horribly. The sail was lowered, Dan reattached the line, in doing so had to make a cut on the edge of the sail. We stuffed part of the sail through a hatch, put the sewing machine on the bed, to add a patch to cover the cut. Better than lugging the machine to the deck for a small sewing job.

Sail repair #3, the Main. The wind calmed down just long enough we decided to drop the mainsail. Stitching along a large section of the tape on foot had come out. With the sewing machine on the deck, that area was resewed, with Dan adjusting the tape as I sewed. Then we reinforced the tape on the entire foot of the sail, sewing the length of it.

Our groceries were delivered late afternoon. Funny how things get lost in translation. On my list I had 5 kilos of bread flour, we received 5 kilos of bread crumbs. Dan wanted a few bags of potato chips, at least they texted us a photo, it was of french fries, like fish and chips, I guess? Dan added cookies, they bought crackers. Not sure about children’s shampoo and many bars of soap, that probs belongs to someone else or to the person who did the shopping.

Thursday September 9, Immigration stopped at our boat in the morning. They wanted to see our exit papers from Fiji as well as boat documentation, COVID vaccine and health documents. Very friendly guys, said the county may reopen Monday, the 13th.

The bananas we received yesterday were very ripe. Today I baked 2 loaves of banana bread.

In the morning we’re departing Indonesia for Reunion Island. It will be about a 3600 nautical mile journey.

Week 5 – Journey to Indonesia

Tuesday August 31-Day 29, today we parted ways with s/v Ohana. They need to stay in Indonesia till the end of September as they are waiting for medication for their daughter to arrive. It was a pleasure getting to know them, hopefully we’ll meet up again in South Africa.

Departed our anchorage by 11:00am heading out to the Timor Sea then west towards Lombok.

*Sourdough Notes* started a Belle loaf this morning, baked it at night during my watch. It’s nice and toasty down in the cabin!

Wednesday September 1-Day 30, Total nautical miles traveled 3543, 130 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Thursday September 2-Day 31, Total nautical miles traveled 3802 , 129 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Officially now sailing in the Indian Ocean!

Friday September 3-Day 32, Total nautical miles traveled 3954, 152 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

6pm we picked up a mooring ball near the dock. As we sit here we hear the sounds of prayers in Indonesian over loud speakers, loudly echoing across bay, in this Muslim country.

3999 nautical miles, 32 days, 7 nights we anchored, our passage from Denarau, Fiji to Marina Del Ray in Lombok, Indonesia.

Week 4 – Journey to Indonesia

Tuesday August 24-Day 22, Total nautical miles traveled 2783, 128 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Wednesday August 25-Day 23, Happy 42nd Anniversary Dan❤️!

Total nautical miles traveled 2931, 148 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Another Australian Border Force flyby this morning. Crossed into the Timor Sea in the afternoon.

Thursday August 26-Day 24, Total nautical miles traveled 3082, 151 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

When provisioning in Fiji, we purchased 4 jars of “Americana” brand peanut butter that were the same shape with a red lid as “Jif”. Unfortunately it tastes nothing the same. It’s very sweet, little peanut flavor. Maybe we can barter 3 for something else.

Dinner was Baja-Style Chicken Bowl. Salsa with black beans, corn and a can of shredded chicken, over rice, topped with cheese. With leftovers for another meal.

Sailing into the sunset, 19 second video to music .

Indonesian archipelago is the largest island group in the world. The number of islands varies from 14,752 (UN figure) to 18,108 (Indonesian Government). It has a population of more than 260 million people and is the world’s most populated Muslim-majority country. Located within the Pacific Ring of Fire, Indonesia has more volcanoes than any country in the world.

6pm we rounded East Timor or Limor- Leste Island in Indonesia.

The water sparkled with bioluminescence, most visible before the moon rose, as we sailed through it.

Friday August 27-Day 25, Total nautical miles traveled 3211, 129 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Saturday August 28-Day 26, Total nautical miles traveled 3353, 142 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

We did not expect Indonesia to be so mountainous (looks like the pacific coast of Mexico) rather we thought it would be more tropical.

Anchor was dropped around 4pm, as we rest on our way to Lombok.

Sunday August 29-Day 27, Total nautical miles traveled 3394, 41 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

We are now in the same time zone as Perth, Australia, UTC+8, 7pm Sunday here in Larantuka, 7am Sunday in Philadelphia. Officially half way around the world time wise!

Monday August 30-Day 28, Total nautical miles traveled 3413, 19 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

The afternoon was spent baking cookies for dessert tonight. It takes a while on the boat as the oven is small and only 6 cookies are baked at a time. We had dinner with Ohana on their boat, it was a wonderful evening!

Week 2 – Journey to Indonesia

Tuesday August 10-Day 8, Happy Birthday Rachael! Total nautical miles traveled 1013, 177 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Waves don’t look as big in photos. Don’t you wish sometimes the camera could sees the view your eyes see?

Wednesday August 11-Day 9, Total nautical miles traveled 1189, 176 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

TRANCE is in the Coral Sea now, which means after a total 21,200 nm on this voyage, we’ve completed the crossing of an ocean! We’ve done the largest, the Pacific Ocean. Next is the Indian Ocean

Thursday August 12-Day 10, Happy Birthday Maddie! Total nautical miles traveled 1346, 157 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours. For breakfast Dan made eggs with homemade hash browns. Back in Denarau, when we ordered produce from FarmBoy, I had requested 3kg potatoes. That’s more than 7lbs! Needless to say, we’ve been eating lots of potatoes cooked various ways. Today I’m going to make a pot of homemade potato soup. The batch will be enough for two meals.

Our buddy boat received their visas for Papua New Guinea today, they “know people” there who were able to get the documents for them. Now they heading north, hopefully we’ll meet up with them in Lombok. Meanwhile our friends on s/v Falbala have not departed New Caledonia yet. Our last communication with them, they said possibly leaving Friday for Lombok. They were delayed by weather.

We are now on Brisbane, Australia time GMT+10, 11:30am Thursday, that’s 9:30 pm Wednesday, Philadelphia time.

Friday August 13-Day 11, our buddy boat was denied entrance to Papua New Guinea even with their visas, more documents were required. They are continuing on with us to Lombok. Also, Falbala has departed New Caledonia this morning.

Total nautical miles traveled 1512, 166 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Another failed stainless steel weld. This post is part of the aft pulpit on the transom. Dan securely tied it to the swim ladder.

Numbers, it’s all about numbers, distance, miles, the wind. A few days back, birds broke our wind instrument that was mounted on top of the mast. Since then we’ve had no measurement of wind speed. In away, for me, this has been a good thing. No stressing over the wind number. I do believe it’s been significant the past several days. Tonight as the wind howls through the boat rigging and our speed over ground hits 9.2 knots with triple reefed main and genoa sails, not surfing down a wave, kinda glad I didn’t know the wind speed number.

Saturday August 14-Day 12, Total nautical miles traveled 1684, 172 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

GoPro snapshots, with camera attached to the boat, taken 12 52.720 S, 149 35.240 E, 11:30am GMT+10

Sunday August 15-Day 13, Total nautical miles traveled 1864, 180 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours!

Extremely windy day up to 43knots (per Ohana)with 10-12ft waves, ugh! 5 times today a wave crashed into the cockpit. One entered over the stern. Several waves hit the enclosure panels but didn’t actually enter the cockpit.

Monday August 16-Day 14, Total nautical miles traveled 2043, 179 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

On the 14th day we rested! The anchor was dropped around 4pm inside The Great Detached Reef, at the the edge of the reef on eastern side. With the winds still in the 20’s it was a bit rolly, yet the reef blocked the ocean waves. The waves crashing on the reef sounded like waves crashing on a beach.

Tomorrow we begin the journey through the Torres Strait over The Great Barrier Reef. Previously had we contacted the Australian Border Force, and were given free passage through the Torres Strait with permission to seek safe anchorage, except near Thursday Island. Conditionally, making landfall or coming in contact with any other vessel is prohibited. Our passage will be the Raine Island route, not through the shipping channel. This track is 178 nautical miles. Along with s/v Ohana, we plan to anchor each night.

We purchased a book titled “Ken’s Torres Strait Passage Guide”. It’s 50 pages of mostly maps with navigation waypoints that meander around reefs and islands. Raine Island marks a navigable entrance to the Great Barrier Reef. There are 71 islands within the reef, 17 are inhabited. There are also a multitude of reefs.

Week 3 Journey to Indonesia

Tuesday August 17-Day 15, Total nautical miles traveled 2091, 48 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

7 am, partial fog and little sun, barely being able to see the reef. The anchor came up cleanly then the wind gently pushed us backwards safely away from the edge of the reef. A trip line was attached to the back of anchor before it was deployed. It assists in pulling the anchor up and out of its holding in case it was stuck on something.

Australia Boarder Force Aircraft called both of us with questions regarding last port, next port where our boats are registered.

*Sourdough Notes* another Belle loaf in the works. This loaf as well as the last, I did a mixture of flours, 5 parts bread flour 1 part of a flour purchased in Tahiti. It’s a high protein flour, looks like it’s part wheat flour. The label is in French, when I googled the brand it says it’s pizza dough flour. It worked well for the last loaf.

Very unpleasant night! Lots of wind waves crashing over the reef we were rocking and rolling all night long!

Wednesday August 18-Day 16, Total nautical miles traveled 2166, 75 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

7:15 anchor up. It was a bit more difficult than yesterday, the anchor was stuck on coral.

We traveled nortwest till 4:30pm, anchored near York Island and a beautiful beach. It’s quite windy around 25knots, it’s an off shore breeze so there are minimal waves. Much more pleasant than last night.

Thursday August 19-Day 17, Total nautical miles traveled 2214, 48 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Anchor up by 7:15 am amidst 37.5 knots of wind, per Ohana. A little Change of plans. Instead of going towards Thursday Island, which requires snaking through islands and a narrow pass with lots of current, we are going down the Prince if Wales shipping channel to anchor at Goods Island.

Our friends on Ohana have a child with a disability that requires life saving drugs. They have arranged throughout the world on their journey to have medication shipped to various places. With the assistance of an agent, they were able to have it delivered to Australia, which is currently closed. When we stop at Goods Island, they were greeted by a pilot boat to deliver the drugs to them. In addition, they also requested to purchase produce. Ohana asked us we’d like some also, we gave them a short list of what we’d like. Grateful for that!

Hammond Rock marked the with a light near the edge of the channel. As we passed the rock the current was ripping by, the boat turned sideways going at times 8 knots speed over ground. The engine was turned on to get back on course, doing 9.7 SOG, 3.5 knots of current. Reminiscence of “Hells Gate” on the East River in NYC.

Friday August 20-Day 18, departed Good Island by 7am along with s/v Ohana. It was nice break to stop each night after the big winds we had the weeks before.

Total nautical miles traveled 2240, 26 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

It was a pretty calm day, sailing 4-6 knots. By early afternoon we exited the Torres Strait to the Arafura Sea.

Saturday August 21-Day 19, Total nautical miles traveled 2380, 140 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Sunday August 22-Day 20, Total nautical miles traveled 2517, 137 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Time change, we are now in the same zone with Seoul, South Korea, GMT+9. It’s 8:00am Sunday, 7pm Saturday in Philadelphia.

Shortly before 1:30pm, Ohana received a radio call from Australia Border Force Aircraft requesting their location and asked if Trance was still sailing with them. 20 minutes later we both had another flyby. They are following our progress through Australian waters.

Fix- it Sunday. iPhone and iPad charging has been challenging. Charging cables frequently fail and we purchase new ones, guess it’s the salty and humid environment. The marine USB port Dan installed on the side of binnacle rusted, it was replaced. Access to the electronics is under the compass. A switch for the bow thruster is also there. Dan found a loose wire on a screw, maybe that’s why the thruster wasn’t working properly. It would turn off at the wrong time or turn the chart plotter off, requiring jiggling the joystick to get it to turn on again.

Monday August 23-Day 21, Total nautical miles traveled 2655, 138 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

There is always something that needs to be fixed. The Genoa sheet, chaffed. On a boat, ropes cut to a length for a purpose are called “lines”. Lines attached to control a sail are referred to as a “sheets”. Dan removed it from the sail and cut off about 3ft and reattached it to the sail.

We received word today that Indonesia is closed once again to foreigners due to a surge in COVID cases. Our agent told us we can stop there as a transient for fuel and provisions. We will not be allowed to get off our boat. This will be a short rest before crossing the Indian Ocean.

Week 1 – Journey to Indonesia

Tuesday August 3-Day 1, Happy Birthday Max! We departed Denarau at 10:30am along with s/v Ohana, US flagged vessel from in Argentina, a catamaran with 5 adults and 6 kids onboard, for Lombok Indonesia. Hopefully we will be together with them for countries west, too.

Oh my the stars, the Milky Way, the Southern Cross!

Wednesday August 4-Day 2, Nautical Miles traveled 156 in the past 24 hours.

Sunset 6:11pm 17° 16.302′ S 174° 5.091′ E The night sky was spectacular!

Thursday August 5-Day 3, Total nautical miles traveled 276, 120 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

The sky is quite gray this morning with rain in front of us only to pass with blue skies behind it.

Friday August 6-Day 4, Total nautical miles traveled 403, 127 miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Baking day…banana bread, orange scones with an orange glaze, peanut butter protein bars, started a loaf of sourdough bread. Also diced and put into containers to use later, green peppers, red peppers and onions. When the wind is light it is easier to do these things.

The protein bars tasted better than they look. 1 cup peanut butter, 1 cup of honey, in a medium saucepan melt together over low heat till blended, add 3 cups of oatmeal and/or anything else you’d like to add like chocolate chips or raisins. Spread in a rectangle or square dish chill til firm,a couple of hours or overnight, then cut into bars or squares.

We heard from our friends on s/v Roxy. They departed Raiatea, French Polynesia in June for Reunion Island. They are now 10 days away. 8182 nm done and 58 days at sea. Wow!

Saturday August 7-Day 5, Total nautical miles traveled 532, 129 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

*Sourdough Notes* baked a Belle loaf, ah the aroma of baking bread first thing in the morning!

We sailed through the the islands of Vanuatu. There is an active volcano on the island of Ambrym. However as we sailed past it, the mountain top being cloud covered, we couldn’t see anything. The island country is currently COVID closed.

Sunday August 8-Day 6, total nautical miles traveled 687, 155 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

At night the water sparkled as we sailed through it. We haven’t seen bioluminescence since Southern California. It is very dark at night as there is no moon at night right now, so the sparkling was very brilliant.

I head a strange noise at night while I’m on watch. Sounds like sparks. I go down into the cabin, while reaching for the ceiling light I step on something slippery. Here a fish, about 9 inches long, flew into the cabin and was flopping around on the floor. I managed to pick it up and throw it overboard. Crazy flying fish!

Monday August 9-Day 7, Total nautical miles traveled 836, 149 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Boat speed and true wind speed are the same. True wind speed is a calculation. Boat speed is correct…. a problem with wind speed.

Upon further investigation, we believe a bird (they’ve been dive bombing the boat the last two days) flew into and broke the apparent wind speed instrument at the top of the mast. One was actually sitting up there. Luckily, the wind direction indicator still works.

We’ve asked our buddy boat s/v Ohana to relay the wind speed periodically, which is now in the low 20’s knots, and expected to increase around 25 for several days.

8:15am, Currently sailing 7knots with triple reefed Main and Genoa. TWD 141, COG 275, 6ft waves.

For dinner this evening we had a one pot meal of sautéed potatoes with red and green peppers, onions, garlic and steak cut into bite size pieces. It’s easier having your meal in a bowl than on a plate.