Author: svtrance

Friday February 4, we hired Aaron for the morning to take us to a few places we didn’t stop at on our previous tour. Longwood House, property owned by the French Government, was Napoleon’s residence and where he died. Taking photos inside is prohibited.

Napoleons tomb, this area he chose to be buried in as he enjoyed the peaceful landscape and plants there. His remains were moved to Paris.

St. Paul’s Cathedral built in 1851, known as the “Country Church” as it is located outside of Jamestown. It is the cathedral of the Diocese of St Helena.

The boats in quarantine were released today. We had arranged for all of to have dinner together at Anne’s Place later in the day. Johnny the ferry driver agreed to do a 9pm run for us back to our boats.

Dan and I spent the night in at the Blue Lantern hotel. The day before we met Donny who owns a local pub here, he invited us to his establishment as they were having a local band “On the Rocks” play. The music was great, lots of dancing! Donny sold us a bottle of Tungi, a local spirits distilled on the island from prickly pears. It hasn’t been brewed for many years due to the lack of the fruit.

Saturday February 5, together with our friends on 6 other boats, we swam with Whale Sharks! January and February are the hottest months on St Helena. This is also the time when fish are spawning. Whale sharks are docile creatures that feed on plankton and small fish. They can grow up to 40 feet or more. Our GoPro decided it wasn’t going to work any more, there were none to be found in town.

Sunday February 6, together with 6 other boats we arranged a trip to the local distillery. Paul and Sally operate the business out of garage attached to their house. They distill Rum, dark and light, Gin, a lemon liqueur as well as a coffee liqueur. He also makes wine and Brandy.

Dan conquered Jacobs Ladder 14 minutes up, 8 minutes down!

Monday February 7, preparations to check out of St Helena Island today. Immigration, Customs, Port Captain, passports stamped! We will depart early Tuesday morning for Fernando de Noronha, Brazil.

Random Facts, St. Helena

• There are three gas stations
• No traffic light
• Maximum island speed limit is 30mph
• Locals here are referred to as “Saints”
• 97+% of eligible people here are COVID vaccinated
• Darwin slept here
• Halley (Halley’s comet fame) was here to map the stars in southern sky
• Face masks are not worn here
• St Helena coffee is amongst the rarest and highly prized in the world. Green tipped Bourbon Arabica beans, introduced here in 1732 from Yemen
• Postage stamps from St Helena are world famous
• Population a little over 4000
• The airport opened in 2018
• Longwood Golf Course (only golf course) is 9 holes with 18 tee boxes
• 21 Post Box Walks, at each trails end there is a post box an ink stamp and visitors book.
• Largest employer is the government

Friday January 28, St. Helena island is at 15 56S, 5 46W in the South Atlantic Ocean, measuring 6 by 10 miles, the land area is 47 square miles. It is a British Overseas Territory. Discovered in 1502 by Portuguese, later was under Dutch rule, the East India Trading Company, then became a British possession. It was an important port until the opening of the Suez Canal. It’s remote location made an ideal place to exile prisoners, the most famous being Napoleon. He was exiled to the island in 1815 and died on St. Helena Island in 1821. His residence, Longwood House still stands as well as the the location of his tomb. He is no longer entombed there, his remains were reburied in 1840 in Paris, France.

Here in Jamestown, there is a ferry service for a fee that will come to your boat to take you ashore. On the hour 6am to 6pm by request. You can take your dinghy in, but the landing area is quite rolly and would be very wet. At 12 noon, along with Susan on s/v Lost Girl, we caught the shuttle and went ashore. She arrived on Wednesday also, sailing from Cape Town. The three of us went to the port captains office where we were met by custom and immigration, passports stamped.

Next stop was the bank to get cash. Only cash is used on this island, no credit/debit cards. There are no ATM’s on the island. The currency is the St. Helena pound, good only here and on Ascension Island.

We had lunch at the Consulate Hotel. Sundowners on our boat with locals Case and Kyle who are staying on a boat near us.

Saturday January 29, Happy Birthday Ben! Dan and I walked around Jamestown most of the day. After lunch we met up with Susan, we had an early dinner, then took the ferry back to our boats.

James Bond continues with evening showing of “Die Another Day” and “Casino Royale”.

Sunday January 30, together with Susan, we hired a tour guide to show us around the island, Aaron from Aaron’s Adventure Tours. Born on St. Helena, he came highly recommend by several people throughout the town.

The roads on the island leading to the interior and across are single lane, hilly, very curvy with multiple switchbacks having frequent pull off areas to allow cars to pass. Car going uphill have right of way to those going downhill.

s/v Moyo has been here at St Helena fir over a year. There son is going to school here too. Early evening they stopped by our boat after returning from a day fishing and brought us as well as other boats at anchor here lobsters. We cooked them up right away, froze some of it.

Tonight’s movie, James Bond, “Quantum of Solas”.

Monday January 31, Happy Birthday Luke! Today we had a late start going into town as it rained all morning. After catching the 11am ferry, we walked to Annie’s Launderette where we dropped off three bags to wash. They should be ready by Wednesday for pick up.

We stopped in The Market for lunch only to be joined by Steve from Port Control.

For dinner, pasta with lobster in a garlic olive oil sauce.

Tonight’s movie, James Bond, “Skyfall”.

Tuesday February 1, Happy Birthday Dan!❤️ went into town on the 9am ferry, had breakfast at Ann’s Place.

This morning we met a local woman Joyce Henry. She knits turtles, you can purchase them at the Arts and Crafts, a store where locals sell handmade goods. We purchased one from her directly.

Dinner tonight, Linguine Alfredo with lobster and a refreshing South African white wine.

Tonight’s final James Bond movie, “Spectre”.

Wednesday February 2, we spent 2.5 hours at the doctors office today. Dan had a cut on his foot we felt it best to have it looked after before departing here. On the way back down the hill we picked up our laundry then had lunch, purchased 2 hours of WiFi, had two Jerry cans filled with diesel, by late afternoon we headed back Trance.

Our friends arrived today from Cape Town, Ohana and Northern Pearl. Sea Dancer arrived late Tuesday afternoon. They are all in quarantine, will have their COVID test tomorrow.

Thursday February 3, provisioning day. We purchased items that need refrigeration, took them back to the boat, went back into town for produce. Johnny the ferry operator gave us a nice filet of tuna this morning too, that will be tonight’s dinner! Tuna steaks with a honey soy sauce glaze with sautéed potatoes and carrots.

Monday January 17 – Day 1, By 12:30pm, we had departed from the fuel barge and the continent of Africa, for the island of St. Helena, a UK territory. It is about 1300 nautical miles northwest from Walvis Bay. COVID restrictions there are 10 day quarantine, yet time at sea counts. Plus, a mandatory free COVID test upon arrival, but only performed on Thursdays. After a negative results you are allowed to go ashore. We have timed our passage to arrive on a Wednesday.

With all three sails deployed. We were cruising 7.5knots in a 12.4 knot breeze.

The moon is 100% waxing making it difficult to see the stars, yet adding miles of visibility to ocean.

Tuesday January 18 – Day 2, total nautical miles traveled 142.

Our weather person told us the forecast was 8 meter (over 26ft) waves in Cape Town, coming from the south. Yikes! We are 865 nautical miles north, should get some remnants of the waves on Wednesday.

Wednesday January 19 – Day 3, total nautical miles traveled 306, 164 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours. Forecast is for us is 3.7 meter waves, 8-12ft. In Cape Town, 6.5 meters or 21 ft. The actual waves for us were 3ft. at soft rolling at long intervals.

Thursday January 20 – Day 4, total nautical miles traveled 452, 146 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours. New time zone, GMT+1, 10am in Lagos, Nigeria, 4am in Philadelphia.

Moderate winds 7-10 knots, the sails are wing on wing with staysail Hoyt boom winged out too. Too many waves to successfully fly the spinnaker.

I haven’t posted food in awhile, for dinner I made balsamic chicken and peppers with potato wedges.

Friday January 21 – Day 5, total nautical miles traveled 583, 131 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

*Sourdough Notes* started the levain Thursday night, mix today, baked at night. This loaf is equal parts flour from Indonesia, South Africa and Namibia.

Saturday January 22 – Day 6, total nautical miles traveled 702, 119 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours. The sky was cloudy most of the day with moderate winds 9-12knots.

It was a James Bond double feature matinee kind of day. “The Spy Who Loved Me” and “Moonraker”, frequently checking on the outside plus we had the AIS and radar alarms on.

Sunday January 23 – Day 7, total nautical miles traveled 844, 142 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours. Pancakes for breakfast, no blueberries.

This day we crossed the Prime Meridian, where East becomes West, Longitude 0 0.00E/W. New time zone, GMT +0, 8:38am in St Helena Island, 3:38am in Philadelphia.

Another James Bond double feature matinee day, “For Your Eyes Only” and “Octopussy”, Dan made buttered popcorn.

The wind has been pretty steady all day 12-15knots with little rolling waves and sails are wing on wing.

Monday January 24 – Day 8, total nautical miles traveled 989, 145 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours. 18knots of wind in the morning, the most wind seen so far, by late afternoon the wind was 12-15knots.

Another James Bond afternoon double feature, “A View to a Kill” and “The Living Daylights”.

For dinner I made barbecue chicken and a potato salad, so good!

Tuesday January 25 – Day 9, total nautical miles traveled 1140, 151 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours. We are moving too fast as it’s best to arrive in daylight. We will slow down for the rest of the trip by reefing the sails.

*Sourdough Notes* started a levain in the morning. Hopefully the warmer weather will allow it to grow faster.

Continuing with the James Bond matinee marathon, “Licence to Kill” (that’s how it was spelled on the movie, must be the British way)

Wednesday January 26 – Day 10, total nautical miles traveled 1279, 139 nautical miles traveled in the past 24.7 hours. After 9 days, 49 minutes, we arrived at St. Helena and connected to a mooring ball at 9am.

We are currently under quarantine, our yellow flag is flying. We will have COVID tests done tomorrow. If all is well, we will be allowed on shore.

And so the James Bond marathon continues, “GoldenEye” and “Tomorrow Never Dies”.

Thursday January 27, at 12:30pm the health department nurses came out to the boat along with Port Control to give us our COVID tests. This is the seventh time we’ve been tested since French Polynesia.

Dan was busy polishing the stainless on the boat, I’ve been working to finish sewing by bags to gift or sell.

More James Bond this evening, “The World is not Enough”

Friday January 28, negative COVID test results this morning, time to explore St. Helena!

Friday January 14, Etosha is one of the largest national parks in Africa at 8600 square miles. Established in 1907 and became a national park in 1967. The main characteristic of the park is a salt pan (a dried salt lake) that can be seen from space, it comprises 23% of the park. There are several waterholes throughout, which make for great wildlife gatherings and viewing.

Monday January 10, Happy Birthday Mike! We departed Luderitz by 9am, heading north to Walvis Bay. It’s a no wind kind of morning.

Tuesday January 11, Totals nautical miles traveled 131. The morning was a calm motor sail in fog with 5knots of wind. At one point we were being followed by at least 100 seals. It was amazing! They were surfing the water like dolphins trying to keep up with us.

Wednesday January 12, 8:30 am we arrived and anchored in Walvis Bay. Total of 249 nautical miles traveled this passage.

Walvis Bay is a small coastal town protected by a long sand spit. Surrounded by desert, it is a busy fishing and shipping port. A tidal lagoon there is home to Flamingos, Pelicans and Damara Terns birds.

In the afternoon we rented a car. It’s a Toyota Fortoner, counterpart to a Toyota Forerunner.

Thursday January 13, Departed Trance at 7:30am, loaded up the dinghy motored to the yacht club. Loaded up the car, locked the dinghy near other boats at the yacht club. Off for three days, 2 nights heading north. We arrived late afternoon opted to check in to the hotel and have some pool time.

Friday January 14, visit to Etosha National Park. See separate post for details.

Saturday January 15, we stopped in the city of Swakopmund, also surrounded by desert, settled by German colonists in 1892. It is a coastal city with pristine sandy beaches reminiscent of any southern California beach town. There are modern upscale homes, palm tree lined streets and beautiful flowers. A midsts the modern there stands several 20th century buildings of German architecture still in use today.

Sunday January 16, provisioning day, produce and meats plus a few essential paper products.

Monday January 17, picked up our laundry, visited customs and immigration, passports stamped! Returned rental car, fueled up Trance and we’re off to St Helenas!

Thursday January 6, In a rented 4×4 vehicle, which is necessary for most roads here, a four hour drive south took us to the Fish River Canyon. Similar in view to the Grand Canyon in Arizona. Depending on which list you find Fish River Canyon second largest in size to the Grand Canyon. There were three other vehicles visiting when we were there.

We stayed overnight at the Canyon Roadhouse, near Fish River Canyon. It is decorated with nostalgia of old cars and gas station signs as if it were a museum. We were the only guest staying in the lodge. There were campsites also affiliated with the lodge, we saw 4 vehicles in the site.

Friday January 7, our stay included breakfast. A buffet was laid out that could feed 20 people! It was a lot of food! With permission, we took the apples, pears and grapes from the spread to have in the car.

On our way North to Sesriem we stopped to see the Hardap Game Park. It is a relatively small park, we saw Springbok, Ostrich and Kori Bustard birds. Adjacent to the park is the Hardap Dam. The reservoir dams the Fish River. This stop was recommended by people we met at the Canyon Roadhouse.

After a 6.5 hour drive we arrived in the town of Sesriem where we stayed at the Sossusvlei Lodge, with dinner and breakfast included. Set in the desert, each room is in it’s own building. We had a wonderful view of the desert.

Saturday January 8, Also within the lodge was an Activity Center that organized a variety of tours. Our plan was to leave at sunrise to see Sossusvlei, but opted to go with a tour. There were two safari vehicles that departed at 6am, with 4 guests in each. First dune we stopped at in the Namib Desert, is called Dune 45. It is permissible to climb this Dune, it stands at 560 ft. The name comes from it being 45 kilometers from the road that connects the Sesriem gate and Sossusvlei.

Sossusvlei is a white salt and clay pan known as Deadvlie. Remnants of a once river marsh with dead trees, surrounded by very large red dunes of million years old sand. Dune 7 is the tallest in this desert over 1256 ft, it’s the 7th dune along the Tsauchab River. Big Daddy, which you are also allowed to climb is over 1066 ft. We climbed what the tour guide called Little Daddy. It is the long plateau before Big Daddy’s peak. Similar in height to Dune 45.

Upon returning back to the lodge, we had a late checkout, took quick showers, as we were full of sand, then departed back to Trance in Luderitz, another 6 hour drive, with beautiful scenery.

Sunday January 9, The now ghost mining town of Kolmanskop, 15 minutes outside of Luderitz, was once one of the wealthiest in the world. The hospital had the first X-ray machine in the southern hemisphere. Three of the buildings were furnished with period items, the General Store (the sewing machine), the store owners house and a bowling alley. In 1912 one million carats of diamonds were mined, by the 1930s the town’s riches were for the most part depleted. Then diamond deposits were found about 165 miles south, by the Oranjestad River. Many of miners moved there. Kolmanskop was abandoned to the desert in 1956.

A Sunday drive around the Luderitz area.

Saturday January 1, 2022-Day 1, we departed Cape Town this morning for the country of Namibia. It is located on the Atlantic coast of Africa, the first country north of South Africa. At 10:15am, the bridges opened for us.

The winds were light all day, the most we saw was 7 knots, it was a pleasant motor sail.

In the afternoon we deployed Cody. It took a long time to unfurl, then we saw the the head swivel was not turning, we tried to lower the halyard a little to ease it off a bit, only to discover the halyard was all twisted at the top from unfurling it. Then it would furl! Dan detached the sail from the bottom furling unit and by hand untwisted the sail. So the swivel turned but apparently not when under load? How can we be the only ones which such issues with the Harken Reflex Furling system? Harken claims they’ve had no complaints or issues with the system. We took the sail down, bagged it up. We don’t need another precarious situation with it. The sail has also been modified twice by two different North Sails lofts. Did I ever mention Cody was a super expensive sail? Do sails and furling systems have “Lemon Laws”?

Sunday January 2-Day 2, blueberry pancakes for breakfast. Dan added whipped cream to his.

Totals nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours 143. The morning we continued to motor sail. By afternoon the wind finally filled in 17-25knots, cruising 7-10knots. waves 3-4 meters.

Oh my the stars! the southern cross, the Milky Way!

Monday January 3-Day 3, Total nautical miles traveled 330, 187 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours. The wind remained steady all day 16-20knots, cruising 5-7knots. By evening the velocity dropped 10-14knots with calmer seas.

Tuesday January 4-Day 4, Total nautical miles traveled 499, 169 nautical miles traveled in the past 25.5 hours.

Arrived in Luderitz, the anchor was dropped in the bay at 11:30am. First order of business, Port Health. We arranged to meet the officer on shore by the “Luderitz Yacht Club” , which is really a bar restaurant, however it does have showers for visiting yachts to use. As we tied off the dinghy, we were greeted by Andy who acts a liaison between Port Control and yachts. After our visit with Port Health, Andy walked us over to immigration then customs and the port captains office.

And so the mishap begins. We were a bit rushed off the boat as port control told us Port Health would meet us on shore soon to review our COVID tests taken in Cape Town. We sat around waiting, finally 1.5 hours later he arrived. As we were filling out paperwork at immigration, we received a call on our hand held vhf radio from port control that our boat was drifting, the anchor was not holding in the 25 knots of wind. Dan and Andy ran back to dinghy and quickly made it back to Trance, who had dragged at least 1/4 mile, where the anchor dug in and she rested unharmed to herself or other boats! Andy is on his boat everyday and controls the moorings. With his help, he and Dan attached to a mooring ball, in this much wind it was a bit difficult. Andy also mentioned the bay is monitored by cameras because of the Diamond mining ships.

Meanwhile I completed the immigration paperwork, passports stamped!

The ocean off the coast of Namibia are mined for diamonds. The world’s richest alluvial gem quality diamond deposits are off the mouth of the Orange River extending up to Luderitz. A vast area on the coast is restricted as well as and several kilometers inland. Public beach access prohibited as you can walk on the beach and pick up diamonds. De Beers who controls the world diamond industry sets the price in Amsterdam and New York by restricting the supply within the diamond companies world wide. It is illegal here to possess uncut stones, without a mining permit, punishment is 10 years in prison non-negotiable.

Wednesday January 5, Luderitz, it is a small coastal fishing and mining town with a population of just over15,000. Surrounded by deserts, there is only one road in and out of town. Established in 1883, it is known for its 20th century German colonial buildings. We walked around town to find the many examples.

Monday December 27, Trance at V&A Marina, we occasionally share the dock next to the boat with seals and sea lions. Twice that we know of, one has actually jumped up on to our boat and rested on our bow.

Tuesday December 28, Wine Tour! With a hired driver, aka our previous tour guide, we did wine tastings at three vineyards and one restaurant, together with Carol and Kurt s/v IceBear and 3 friends of theirs, Mike, Felicity and her daughter Nadine.

First stop was Spier, near Stellenbosch, one of South Africa’s oldest wine farms dating back to 1692. Next was Muratie Wine Estate established in 1685, with its old world charm and beautiful gardens. Our last vineyard was Boschendal, where we tasted wine with a light lunch at the Farm Shop & Butchery on the premises. Most wineries in the acclaimed wine district are each a complex destination in themselves. Offering more than wine, restaurants to choose from, overnight accommodations as well as other activities to participate in.

Wednesday December 29, Dan and I had another Wine tasting. This one at the Waterfront Wine Shop at the V&A Waterfront. Several of our cruising friends have mentioned it. They feature a different area wine farms each day. For R100 ($6.00 USD) you can sample four different wines generously poured. Bottles are also available to purchase.

Wine from South Africa is excellent! It is also very inexpensive especially the premium wines. The industry had just recovered from a drought when the pandemic hit. Wine had been difficult to export in the past two years due to lockdowns and alcohol export bans from COVID. The bans had a sweeping effect from growers and producers to distributors, retailers and suppliers and to those that manufacture or sell production equipment, bottles, closures and even labels.

Thursday December 30, lunch today at Willoughby & Co Purveyors of Fine Seafood, along with Susan and Mark on s/v Erie Spirit, we met them at Richards Bay. Had my first sushi, but with cooked crab.

Friday December 31🥂, COVID tests for traveling in the morning, followed by immigration then customs. Exit stamps on our passports, we are departing Saturday for Namibia.

We celebrated ringing in 2022 at a dock party, with the cruising friends we’ve met here. It’s bittersweet that it now a new year. This means there is at the most 6 months left to our circumnavigation journey, to arrive in the Chesapeake Bay before the Atlantic hurricane season begins.

Monday December 20, from most countries (or States) we’ve visited, we have sent gifts home to our adult children. Like pineapples from Hawaii, Black Pearls from Tahiti and Kava bowls from Fiji to name a few. In my quest for a unique gift from South Africa, I came across a brochure for this fabric designer, Carole Nevin in Cape Town. The fabrics are hand painted then sewn into table linens, kitchen linens or pillow covers all in her studio. The colors are stunning and vivid it was hard to choose, so I let the kids decide. They each gave me three choices. It’s a good thing, what I would have picked out for them was not what they chose!

After leaving the studio we stopped at St. James Beach. There is a man made tidal pool and row of brightly coloured wooden beach huts with mismatched colored roofs and doors to their frames. The tidal pool is warmer than the False Bay Ocean and has calm waters unaffected by currents. This salty ocean pool is great splash around in without waves crashing around you and offers protection from wind as well as sharks.

Later we had dinner with new friends, Carol and Kurt on s/v IceBear from DC area.

Tuesday December 21, Road trip to Mossel Bay. First stop, the War Memorial. Honoring those lost in WW I, WW II, Korea and Iraq. The Grandson of a friend, of an old neighbor of Dan’s, in the town he grew up in, was killed in the Iraq War. His name is on this memorial as he has South African ancestry. We took photos of the monument and emailed them to the former neighbors.

Cape St. Blaize Lighthouse, built in 1864, is one of two lighthouses along the South African coast that maintained a 24-hour watch. We climbed up two wooden ladders and twisty iron ladder with wood steps to reach the top.

Reed Valley Wine Farm, we sampled combined 10 wines from Reed Valley and sister vineyard Zandvliet. This was over 3 hours and included dinner at The Succulent Eatery…Nursery and Deli, on the premises.

Wednesday December 22, Point of Human Origins cave tour is a Middle Stone Age archaeological site. These caves were explored in 1997 during an environmental impact study for the development of a Golf and Beach Resort community on Pinnacle Point. It was realized man lived in these caves more than a 160,000 years ago. With evidence of intelligent life based on communication findings, stone tools constructed with resins, bones of large animals that were hunted and the use fire, this was an extraordinary find. The archeologists have filed for World Heritage Site designation. There more than a dozen caves on the cliffs.

To get to the caves there are a series of trails, wooden boardwalks and about 200 wooden steps.

Thursday December 23, Back to the North Sails loft to retrieve Cody.

Friday December 24, we were Lindt chocolatiers! The first of its kind in South Africa and for Lindt worldwide, chocolate classes at Lindt Chocolate Studio in Cape Town. We decorated pre made truffles using tempered Lindt Milk & Dark Chocolate with toppings to add.

s/v Dafne and s/v Ohana co-hosted a Christmas Eve cocktail party centrally located on the middle dock by their catamarans. Tables were set up with Hors d’oeuvre to share.

Saturday December 25 🎄,

Sunday December 26, a leisurely drive through Cape Town aboard a double decker red tour bus. We exited the bus at the Winchester Mansion Hotel for lunch, then walked to the next stop near the Green Point Lighthouse, the oldest operating lighthouse in South Africa.

Tuesday December 14, road trip to the North Sails loft here in Cape Town for a discussion regarding our Code 65 sail repair.

They are going to trim the bad sections, sew on a sacrificial cover on the foot and leech. The furling cable is external, they will sew it into the luff of the sail and reattach the Harken swivel to the head of the sail.

Wednesday December 15, laundry day and planning day. We are renting a car on Friday for errands too far to walk as well as for a road trip we are planning. Lots of Google searches, and a few reservations made.

Thursday December 16, Two Oceans Aquarium is a short walk from our boat. The morning was spent there browsing the fish exhibits.

Friday December 17, Happy Birthday Mecca! Busy day started with both of us at a local dentist for a cleaning. Jerome from s/v Roxy offered to go to the top of our mast to install the wind speed indicator (he used to be a rigger). For dinner we met up with Beverly and Andree, s/v Sea Dancer, (we met in Durban) at the Royal Cape Yacht Club, their boat is berthed there. We brought along Michael and Pricilla, s/v Hylite. After dinner we had coffee on Sea Dancer, fun night!

Saturday December 18, a drive down the Cape of Good Hope to see the penguin colony.

The African Penguin is listed as an endangered species. On Foxy Beach there is a winding trail of boardwalks for penguin viewing, set in the middle of a residential area. They were previously named Jackass Penguins because of their donkey like sound, as they are the only penguins that breed in Africa, they were renamed African Penguins.

The colony grew from two breeding pairs in 1982, to about 2000. This is mostly due to the reduction of trawling in False Bay, increasing anchovies and pilchards, basic food for the penguins along with squid.

December is peak moulting time, where old feathers are replaced loosing their waterproofing and are confirmed to land for about three weeks. They fatten up before as it is a period of starvation. Breading season typically begins in February, we did notice however a few penguins sitting on eggs. Penguins are a monogamous species, they take turns incubating their eggs and feeding their young.

Sunday December 19, day trip to Stellenbosch, wine country South Africa where the landscape has vineyards as far as one could see in all directions. A visit to the Spice Route Destination, seated at the base of the Paarl mountain. This place is a wine farm that offers tastings. There is also a craft brewery, local spirits and chocolate maker also offering tastings. With several artisan restaurants go choose from, as well as craft shops, even a spice deli. We sampled wine and of course chocolate, had lunch at Barley & Biltong Emporium then later, gourmet ice cream. It was a great relaxing Sunday afternoon.