Author: svtrance

Monday December 27, Trance at V&A Marina, we occasionally share the dock next to the boat with seals and sea lions. Twice that we know of, one has actually jumped up on to our boat and rested on our bow.

Tuesday December 28, Wine Tour! With a hired driver, aka our previous tour guide, we did wine tastings at three vineyards and one restaurant, together with Carol and Kurt s/v IceBear and 3 friends of theirs, Mike, Felicity and her daughter Nadine.

First stop was Spier, near Stellenbosch, one of South Africa’s oldest wine farms dating back to 1692. Next was Muratie Wine Estate established in 1685, with its old world charm and beautiful gardens. Our last vineyard was Boschendal, where we tasted wine with a light lunch at the Farm Shop & Butchery on the premises. Most wineries in the acclaimed wine district are each a complex destination in themselves. Offering more than wine, restaurants to choose from, overnight accommodations as well as other activities to participate in.

Wednesday December 29, Dan and I had another Wine tasting. This one at the Waterfront Wine Shop at the V&A Waterfront. Several of our cruising friends have mentioned it. They feature a different area wine farms each day. For R100 ($6.00 USD) you can sample four different wines generously poured. Bottles are also available to purchase.

Wine from South Africa is excellent! It is also very inexpensive especially the premium wines. The industry had just recovered from a drought when the pandemic hit. Wine had been difficult to export in the past two years due to lockdowns and alcohol export bans from COVID. The bans had a sweeping effect from growers and producers to distributors, retailers and suppliers and to those that manufacture or sell production equipment, bottles, closures and even labels.

Thursday December 30, lunch today at Willoughby & Co Purveyors of Fine Seafood, along with Susan and Mark on s/v Erie Spirit, we met them at Richards Bay. Had my first sushi, but with cooked crab.

Friday December 31🥂, COVID tests for traveling in the morning, followed by immigration then customs. Exit stamps on our passports, we are departing Saturday for Namibia.

We celebrated ringing in 2022 at a dock party, with the cruising friends we’ve met here. It’s bittersweet that it now a new year. This means there is at the most 6 months left to our circumnavigation journey, to arrive in the Chesapeake Bay before the Atlantic hurricane season begins.

Monday December 20, from most countries (or States) we’ve visited, we have sent gifts home to our adult children. Like pineapples from Hawaii, Black Pearls from Tahiti and Kava bowls from Fiji to name a few. In my quest for a unique gift from South Africa, I came across a brochure for this fabric designer, Carole Nevin in Cape Town. The fabrics are hand painted then sewn into table linens, kitchen linens or pillow covers all in her studio. The colors are stunning and vivid it was hard to choose, so I let the kids decide. They each gave me three choices. It’s a good thing, what I would have picked out for them was not what they chose!

After leaving the studio we stopped at St. James Beach. There is a man made tidal pool and row of brightly coloured wooden beach huts with mismatched colored roofs and doors to their frames. The tidal pool is warmer than the False Bay Ocean and has calm waters unaffected by currents. This salty ocean pool is great splash around in without waves crashing around you and offers protection from wind as well as sharks.

Later we had dinner with new friends, Carol and Kurt on s/v IceBear from DC area.

Tuesday December 21, Road trip to Mossel Bay. First stop, the War Memorial. Honoring those lost in WW I, WW II, Korea and Iraq. The Grandson of a friend, of an old neighbor of Dan’s, in the town he grew up in, was killed in the Iraq War. His name is on this memorial as he has South African ancestry. We took photos of the monument and emailed them to the former neighbors.

Cape St. Blaize Lighthouse, built in 1864, is one of two lighthouses along the South African coast that maintained a 24-hour watch. We climbed up two wooden ladders and twisty iron ladder with wood steps to reach the top.

Reed Valley Wine Farm, we sampled combined 10 wines from Reed Valley and sister vineyard Zandvliet. This was over 3 hours and included dinner at The Succulent Eatery…Nursery and Deli, on the premises.

Wednesday December 22, Point of Human Origins cave tour is a Middle Stone Age archaeological site. These caves were explored in 1997 during an environmental impact study for the development of a Golf and Beach Resort community on Pinnacle Point. It was realized man lived in these caves more than a 160,000 years ago. With evidence of intelligent life based on communication findings, stone tools constructed with resins, bones of large animals that were hunted and the use fire, this was an extraordinary find. The archeologists have filed for World Heritage Site designation. There more than a dozen caves on the cliffs.

To get to the caves there are a series of trails, wooden boardwalks and about 200 wooden steps.

Thursday December 23, Back to the North Sails loft to retrieve Cody.

Friday December 24, we were Lindt chocolatiers! The first of its kind in South Africa and for Lindt worldwide, chocolate classes at Lindt Chocolate Studio in Cape Town. We decorated pre made truffles using tempered Lindt Milk & Dark Chocolate with toppings to add.

s/v Dafne and s/v Ohana co-hosted a Christmas Eve cocktail party centrally located on the middle dock by their catamarans. Tables were set up with Hors d’oeuvre to share.

Saturday December 25 🎄,

Sunday December 26, a leisurely drive through Cape Town aboard a double decker red tour bus. We exited the bus at the Winchester Mansion Hotel for lunch, then walked to the next stop near the Green Point Lighthouse, the oldest operating lighthouse in South Africa.

Tuesday December 14, road trip to the North Sails loft here in Cape Town for a discussion regarding our Code 65 sail repair.

They are going to trim the bad sections, sew on a sacrificial cover on the foot and leech. The furling cable is external, they will sew it into the luff of the sail and reattach the Harken swivel to the head of the sail.

Wednesday December 15, laundry day and planning day. We are renting a car on Friday for errands too far to walk as well as for a road trip we are planning. Lots of Google searches, and a few reservations made.

Thursday December 16, Two Oceans Aquarium is a short walk from our boat. The morning was spent there browsing the fish exhibits.

Friday December 17, Happy Birthday Mecca! Busy day started with both of us at a local dentist for a cleaning. Jerome from s/v Roxy offered to go to the top of our mast to install the wind speed indicator (he used to be a rigger). For dinner we met up with Beverly and Andree, s/v Sea Dancer, (we met in Durban) at the Royal Cape Yacht Club, their boat is berthed there. We brought along Michael and Pricilla, s/v Hylite. After dinner we had coffee on Sea Dancer, fun night!

Saturday December 18, a drive down the Cape of Good Hope to see the penguin colony.

The African Penguin is listed as an endangered species. On Foxy Beach there is a winding trail of boardwalks for penguin viewing, set in the middle of a residential area. They were previously named Jackass Penguins because of their donkey like sound, as they are the only penguins that breed in Africa, they were renamed African Penguins.

The colony grew from two breeding pairs in 1982, to about 2000. This is mostly due to the reduction of trawling in False Bay, increasing anchovies and pilchards, basic food for the penguins along with squid.

December is peak moulting time, where old feathers are replaced loosing their waterproofing and are confirmed to land for about three weeks. They fatten up before as it is a period of starvation. Breading season typically begins in February, we did notice however a few penguins sitting on eggs. Penguins are a monogamous species, they take turns incubating their eggs and feeding their young.

Sunday December 19, day trip to Stellenbosch, wine country South Africa where the landscape has vineyards as far as one could see in all directions. A visit to the Spice Route Destination, seated at the base of the Paarl mountain. This place is a wine farm that offers tastings. There is also a craft brewery, local spirits and chocolate maker also offering tastings. With several artisan restaurants go choose from, as well as craft shops, even a spice deli. We sampled wine and of course chocolate, had lunch at Barley & Biltong Emporium then later, gourmet ice cream. It was a great relaxing Sunday afternoon.

Monday December 13, city tour with our guide Chris Spanneberg.

First stop Table Mountain, it has recently been named one of the 7 Natural Wonders of the World and is a World Heritage Site. Table Mountain is a flat-topped mountain overlooking Cape Town. Cable cars have been going to the summit since 1929. There are also hiking trails to the mountain top.

Camps Bay Beach, Cape Town’s party beach with its white sand edged by a walkway full of restaurants, clubs and hotels.

Next stop, a section of the city at the bottom of Signal Hill, hill known as Bo-Kaap. Formally known as the Malay Quarters. In the 1760’s these houses were leased to slaves. The slaves were known as Cape Malays as they were slaves brought from Malaysia, Indonesia as well as other parts of Africa to work in the Cape. The houses were all white, situated on the hilly cobblestone streets. Some streets are still the original stone. When slaves were allowed to purchase their houses, they were painted in bright colors as an expression of freedom. Many families living there now have been there for generations.

The Castle of Good Hope is a stronghold fort built in the 17th century. It used to be located on the coastline, but now due to reclamation, it is far from the waterfront. The castle was built by the Dutch East India Company, as a stopping place for ships coming from Europe to East Asia, so they could maintain their monopoly on the Spice Trade.

The firing of the signal cannon was used to alert those inside the fort that a ship had been sighted at sea. To this day, every day except Sunday and public holidays, the 1800’s signal cannon is fired at 12 noon. The cannon is located atop Signal Hill, at the South African Navy’s Lion Battery. The echo can be heard across the city.

City Hall, built in 1905, it is now used as a venue for cultural and social events, also it is home of the Cape Philharmonic Orchestra. On the balcony there is a Statue of Nelson Mandela, where on February 11, 1990, after he was released from prison, he gave a speech to unite the country and end help apartheid. The speech had a worldwide television audience. After 4 years of negotiations apartheid ended in 1994. City offices are now located at the Cape Town Civic Center.

The Company’s Garden is a historic urban park near the city center of Cape Town. First built as a replenishment station for the trade route between Europe and the east. Ships sent by the Dutch East India Company, after months at sea would stock-up on fresh produce grown in the garden, giving it the the name “The Company’s Garden”. Today the area is has tree lined paths with benches in a botanical setting.

The Houses of Parliament. Cape Town is home to South Africa’s Parliament, it is the legislative capital. The government seat or administration is located in Pretoria. Bloemfontein is the judicial capital. South Africa has three capital cities.

Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden established in 1913, is one of 11 National Botanical Gardens all under the direction of the South African Biodiversity Institute. The botanical garden is dedicated to the cultivation and study of indigenous plants of South Africa. Located on the eastern slope of Table Mountain, the estate includes a horticultural garden including many rare and endangered species, theme gardens and a nature reserve.

In the middle of the garden is a Tree Canopy Walkway that snakes over trees and has panoramic views. Within the garden is an amphitheater with lawn seating for performances. There is a plethora of natural texture throughout the gardens.

Monday December 6, a weather window opened up giving us 4 days to make it Cape Town. Our planned departure will be tomorrow morning.

There is a washing machine at the yacht club, free to use. We did a couple loads then hung them out on the boat till it rained. For dinner the club had macaroni and cheese dinner with salads. One Mac and Cheese casserole had chicken, the other bacon.

Tuesday December 7 – Day 1, departed East London at 7:45am.

Not much wind to start, so we motored out to ride in the Agulhas current. The winds were light with swift current, 2-4knots in our favor. We were motor sailing to maintain speed 8-9knots speed over ground to keep within our weather window.

Wednesday December 8 – Day 2, 192.5 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours, average speed over ground 8.5knots mostly due to current.

Scrambled eggs for breakfast on the calm no wind morning.

The wind filled in early afternoon, predicted to be around 20knots. With a double reefed Genoa, our speed over ground is 11.5-12knots as we are sailing in the sweet spot of the current, it’s adding 4knots to our speed.

*Sourdough Notes* the Levain was started at the end of my shift Tuesday 12am. Dan finished the rest with my instructions. I fell into a winch on a wave, this morning, ribs to hard metal edge, a big ouch. Does not hurt to breathe nor yawn, just move. The impact was on high on my side, near my arm. Pretty sure I broke or bruised a few ribs.

Thursday December 9 – Day 3, 386 total nautical miles traveled, 193.5 nautical miles in the past 24 hours.

Continuing around the coast of South Africa, 35 24.178S, 23 00.842E is the most southerly point our journey has taken us. We are heading northwest out the the Agulhas current stream. Officially crossed the Indian Ocean, we are now sailing in the Atlantic Ocean.

Friday December 10 – Day 4, this morning at sunrise we are 36 Nautical miles from Cape Town. The wind has diminished, motor sailing probably the rest of the way.

Arrived in Cape Town, V&A Waterfront Marina a little after 12 noon. 572 total nautical miles traveled, 76 hour, average speed 7.5knots.

Saturday December 11, we walked along Battery Park, stopped at a small cafe for breakfast.

Battery Park is an urban park between the V&A Waterfront and Cape Town’s Business District. There are series of pedestrian routes, including one alongside the canal. The area has various outdoor recreation public spaces, a skateboard park, basketball court, standup paddle board rentals for use on the canal. Walkways are surrounded by restaurants stores and businesses.

Parked next to us in the marina is s/v Roxy. Caroline and Jerome from Belgium. I first met her on Facebook when we were in Tahiti, in the private French Poly Cruisers Group. They are friends with s/v Falbala. The four of us went for drinks an dinner at Victoria Wharf, it was Jeromes birthday.

The Victoria Wharf, located at the V&A Waterfront, is a very active mall with street performers, outdoor amphitheater, food courts, specialty shops and restaurants. Many stores are the same I would find in a mall at home.

Sunday December 12, we walked to the Oranjezicht City Farm Market for breakfast. It’s a weekend outdoor Artsy food, craft and produce market. Later we walked around the mall at Victoria Wharf.

Boat project for the rest of the day. We have a plumbing issue with the aft head. Ugh! Dan is going to replace the hose from the head to the three way valve.

Monday November 29, in the morning we walked to grocery store with Michael and Verina from s/v Webik, they are from Austria. Durban is a dirty, litter filled city from what we saw, walking distance from the marina, I’m sure there are nice areas too. When we checked into the marina a few days ago, they told us it’s not safe to walk around town. Also if we needed a taxi, ask them, they would recommend someone they trusted. With safety in numbers the four of us ventured off to the grocery store. When we arrived at the food store, it was like a different world inside from what is outside. It was well stocked and super clean.

Des Cason, our weather person, came to Durban to meet all of us for lunch. He is seated in the center in the bench.

Barbecue dinner with Michael and Verina on their boat. They are parked next to us.

Tuesday November 30, Two years ago today this journey began, now on to the home stretch. Now, we are waiting for a weather window to continue south and west to Cape Town.

This morning along with Michael and Verina s/v Webik we went to a local pharmacy, Clicks, where we all received our third Pfizer COVID vaccine. Sunday night the South African president spoke urging people to get the vaccine. With that said, we anticipated a long line. Sadly there was only one person ahead of us.

Wednesday December 1, boat project day along with a few sewing jobs. Still waiting for a weather to continue around the coast.

Local news report – Today, Shell Oil has started a seismic survey in search of oil or gas deposits from Morgan Bay to Port St. John’s off the eastern coast of South Africa. m/v Amazon Warrior accompanied by a support vessel, Ocean Fortune, and a guard vessel, Astra G, for five months will drag up to 48 air guns methodically through 6,011km² of ocean surface, firing shock wave emissions that penetrate through 3km of water and 40km into the Earth’s crust below the seabed.

On Sunday, there are planned protests in major cities to demand the government revoke permission given to Shell.

Thursday December 2, completed our 5 page exit papers to depart Durban, Pretty much the same documents when we left Richards Bay. Our destination is East London, Buffalo River Yacht Club.

Continued on my sewing projects, to gift, sell or barter.

For dinner there was a Braai at the Point Yacht Club. We grilled chicken and brought a macaroni tuna salad to share.

Friday December 3, The weather looks good, departed Durban today by 5:30pm along with s/v Ohana, s/v Webik, for East London. Just stating their journey around the world, s/v Sea Dancer, Beverley and Andree from Durban, also departing today for Cape Town.

We motored until after midnight as there was no wind. It took several hours to get to the Agulhas current.

Saturday December 4, The wind gradually filled in and main sail was deployed at 1:30am. The Genoa was set at 6am along with pole, wing on wing. Speed over ground ranged from 7-9knots. It has been raining all morning, a pesky drizzle started that took the wind away. SOG is still 5-6knots mostly due to 2knots of positive current. At times we saw 3.5knots of positive current.

Until we round the bottom of Africa, we want an easterly breeze, or no wind at all. A southwest breeze is dangerous here because when the wind is against the strong Agulhas current it creates high waves. So we will take short hops when favorable conditions exist.

Slippers on boat, perfect for this damp rainy day. Our full cockpit enclosure keeps us dry.

150 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Sunday December 5, 9:30am we arrived at Buffalo River Yacht Club in East London, connected to the mooring system.

268 total nautical miles traveled, from Durban.

After lunch team Ohana invited us to join them on a city tour. First stop monument to German settlers and murals.

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Sunday November 29, Day trip with s/v Ohana to the country of Lesotho. Lesotho is a small landlocked kingdom surrounded by South Africa. Our tour was with Zulu Safaris. We took the Sani Pass, Lesotho, 4×4 Tour. There were 10 of us traveling in two vehicles, each with a guide.

First stop Pietermaritzburg, 80km NW of Durban. It is the capital of KwaZulu-Natal. We had a short tour of the area then stopped at the Mahatma Gandhi’s statue in front of City Hall.

Next a drive through the Drakensberg Mountains and up to the Sani Pass into Lesotho. Passports stamped! The Sani Pass is a notoriously dangerous road, which requires the use of a 4×4 vehicle. It is the gateway to the ‘Roof of Africa’ a 9km scenic route that links the picturesque scenery of the Drakensberg mountains and mountains of northern Lesotho. The road is full of holes, loose rocks, boulders and gravel. It’s a serie of winding twists, switchbacks, hairpins, plunging drops and spectacular scenery. It is one of the highest roads of the country.

Basotho people are an ethnic group native to Lesotho and South Africa. Villages are often located high in the mountains, above the deep river valleys and flood danger. There you can find many flocks of sheep grazing in the summer growth amongst the villages.

We met Analina, she served us sweet bread and was selling items she had made. We purchased a very nice grass basket and a pair of earrings. After visiting the village we stopped to see Father Emmanuel Siphiwe Thato from the Tower of Strength Ministries where we gave donated items to him.

Monday November 22, went to several grocery stores in search of a Turkey breast, finally found one, It’s about 1kg or 2lbs.

Later in the afternoon a musical jam session was held by a few cruisers, then sundowners with our new friends from Mexico. They will be flying home in a few days to Mexico City to obtain a visa for South Africa, then fly back.

Tuesday November 23, took a drive to the next town to pickup new boat cards we had made as our stash was running low. Many cruisers have them to share your contact info with other boats. A few modifications were made to these, a different photo of us, our blog address, and logos added of Seven Seas Cruising Association and Ocean Cruising Clubs which we are members of.

The remainder of the day was gray with scattered rain showers.

Wednesday November 24, provisioning day, mostly produce, but enough for a week. Departing Richards Bay late Thursday for Durban, anticipate arriving mid morning on Friday, We shall stay there a few days then continue around the coast of South Africa. The rental car was also returned.

The checkout process was started. A seven page document was completed and stamped by the yacht club. Next stops customs, immigration then police to get it stamped, which we will do tomorrow morning. Eric will pick up Dan and drive him to the locations to get this document validated. After submitted it back to the yacht club, we will have 36 hours to depart Richards Bay. Each port in South Africa has the same checkout process.

Thursday November 25, 🦃 there are several American boats here at Zululand Yacht Club. We all gathered for dinner for a Friendsgiving celebration. Each boat bringing their own protein and a side dish to pass.

With ovens on most boats being small, it is not feasible for most to roast a large turkey. Our Turkey breast was poached in a white wine, chicken broth mixture with aromatics including onions, carrots, celery, green pepper with thyme sprigs along with rosemary, parsley and sage. We used our oven to bake an apple crisp then a sweet potato casserole which we brought to share.

What’s a thanksgiving gathering without a little football? Unable to find an American football, so a rugby ball was purchased. They are similar in size, it will work. Unfortunately it rained all morning and the grass was slippery and wet, the game was canceled.

There were 20 people sharing Thanksgiving dinner. We were outside under a covered picnic/bar area enjoying dinner by candlelight, Inflatable lights and flashlights as the electricity was off due to load shedding.

Departed Richards Bay 9:30pm in a misty rain.

Friday November 26, arrived in Durban around 2pm, 193kn miles traveled, average speed 6.5knots. This passage we switched our watch times, I slept from 11-2:30am, Dan 2:30 am – 5:30am. It was the first time on this journey I’ve witnessed an Ocean sunrise. Amazing when the sun rises how much it awakens you.

The port in Durban has one large marina with two yacht club buildings on either side, Royal Natal Yacht Club and Point Yacht Club. When we registered at the marina, our thumbprint was scanned. Placing your thumb on a digital reader at the gate is how you gain access to the guarded gated docks.

Saturday November 27, lunch at the Point Yacht Club. These water birds were hanging around the club.

Friday November 19, Together with Magaly and Didier from s/v Falbala, we took a day trip to St. Lucia for a Sunrise safari drive, exploring the Eastern shores of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park followed by Hippo & Croc Boat Safari up the St Lucia Estuary. These wetlands are designated a World Heritage Site, which are cultural and or natural sites considered important for future generations.

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Then the road block occurred, we waited about an hour for the Elephants to move. There were three calves amongst the herd, so inching closer in the vehicle would create a dangerous situation.

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Boat safari on the St Lucia estuary.

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Monday November 15, this week has been full of relaxing, hanging out with friends both old and new.

Work on the teak was completed. Braai with all our French friends.

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Tuesday November 16, On the boat, the same kind of pump is used in different areas. Using a pump repair kit, and two pumps that were not working properly, Dan was able to put together one pump that worked. This was used to replace the refrigerator drain pump.

Wednesday November 17, picked up a rental car to use for a week.

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Thursday November 18, another gray rainy day with high winds. On the ocean there around 40 knots of wind, here in the bay there is 30 knots with gusts to 34 knots out of the southwest. (per another boat).

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Friday November 19, day trip to iSimangaliso Wetland Park, see separate at post.

Saturday November 20, We installed new custom vinyl decals that were purchased for Trance. These are for the bow on both side. Decals are the same color as the name on the transom. Now we can be easily identified when docked bow in first.

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Sunday November 21, Blueberry Pancake Sunday, then Magaly brought over four freshly made blueberry crepes!

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Late afternoon s/v Ohana arrived at Tuzi Gazi, we went over to see them. Two of their youngest children are with the grandparents will arrive here by plane with them. Great to see this crew again!

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