Author: svtrance

Thursday April 9

Ensenada is a port city and cruise ship destination on the northern coast of the Baja California Mexico peninsula.

This morning we all walked to the Port Captains office, our Passports were stamped, fees paid, cleared to exit Mexico. Afterwards we walked to a grocery to get a few items. I should mention we are wearing Face masks and carry Lysol Wipes with us.

Two other boats left Turtle Bay when we did. We saw them on AIS and radar, but didn’t know them. Windward Star and Festina lente. The three of us were all docked next to each other at Marina Naval. Evan is solo sailing Windward Star, on Festina lente, Rich and Danielle. We had happy hour at sundown with appetizers. 6 feet apart. We got closer as the night went on.

The 7 of us, after drinks walked to an Italian restaurant. Establishments here are only doing take out. We asked if we could dine in, we were the only ones there. They graciously said yes but closed the blinds after we were served food so no one could see we were dining in, and they wouldn’t get in trouble with authorities.

After dinner we walk backed to the marina and said our goodbyes with elbow bumps. We shall all meet up again in San Diego at the police dock where we’ll check in to the USA.

Tuesday April 7

The dock master stopped by around 9am with good news and bad. The good-Tomorrow he will take us to the Port Captains Office, where we can check out of Mexico. The bad-we have to stay on our boats and wait for a health inspection. At 1 pm we called the office to inquire, the dock master came by and gave everyone a mask, said we can leave our boats but we must wear the face masks.

We all took showers at the marina, not much hot water!

After dinner, spaghetti with zucchini, onion and garlic in the sauce, we donned our masks and took a walk down the deserted waterfront.

Saturday April 4 -Day 8

While anchored at Turtle Bay, the locals will not allow anyone ashore, but will send a Panga to your boat if need supplies or fuel.

Dan and John worked on remounting the AIS antenna as well as replaced the the Main outhaul line. Joy and I did a round of exercises on the bow.

There are 280 nautical miles to Ensenada, it was decided we’re doing two overnight sails, leaving in the morning, should arrive on Tuesday. A reservation was made at a marina there.

For dinner using yesterday’s “catch of the day” we are making (our recipe) “Bahía Tortuga Fish Bake”. Fish, Yam, zucchini, red pepper, onions, garlic and potatoes with a balsamic dressing roasted on the grill in a foil pouch.

In the pressure cooker was made a lentil chili, for dinner tomorrow.

Sunday April 5 – Day 9

Our alarms were set for 5:30am, to get an early start. Joy made fried egg, ham and cheese sandwiches for everyone. A short while later, half of us noticed the time was off, not 6am but 5am. Guess were on “boat time”. Does anybody really know what time it is? It was indeed Daylight savings time in Mexico.

For dinner we had lentil chili we made yesterday along with a homemade loaf of beer bread.

Monday April 6 – Day 10

Joy was seasick last night, she laid on the floor in salon overnight and a good portion of the day. Then munched on saltines, had a little chicken broth, by afternoon she back to Joyful self again!

We have not had cell service in 10 days since we left Cabo San Lucas. I miss not having the connections but don’t miss hearing of all the stressful coronavirus stories. Mexico was late to the social distancing party. Within the first two weeks of March, all of Central America had closed its borders. The last week of March Mexico finally closed down.

100 miles from Ensenada, the wind is light only 6 knots true. The fishing pole is out, I’d like something other than another Tuna please. Dan caught a another Skipjack, this one bigger than the second. It got away as he was getting it out of the water.

We attempted to join a zoom family gathering, didn’t seem to work for us maybe because we are in Mexico. I’ll download the app so next time we’ll be there, if we have service of course.

For dinner we had Pumpkin Risotto accompanied by cured meats and cheese.

Tuesday April 7 – Day 11

We arrived at Baja Naval Marina, in Ensenada around 7:30am, we were given a dock assignment days before, we docked the boat ourselves as the office was not open yet.

Saturday March 28 -Day 1

Left Cabo San Lucas at 11:30 am. Sailed past several pristine sandy beaches, not a soul in sight.

For tonight’s dinner, rigatoni with sautéed yellow bell pepper, white onion, mushrooms, zucchini and garlic, tossed in an olive oil, balsamic vinegar and Chardonnay dressing, topped with fresh cherry tomatoes halved and Parmesan cheese.

We sailed through the night. Our watches have been similar to those that Dan and I used. John and I had first watch 6:30pm – 12:30am. At 12:10am I’d turn on the kettle for hot water for Dan and Joy, they had second watch 12:30am – 6:30am. Joy would make coffee for John and I when her shift ended, then down to nap. Daytime we didn’t have a scheduled, but John enjoyed sitting at the helm most of the day.

Sunday March 29 – Day 2

Quite a windy day, saw winds as high as 24 knots true, 29 apparent. This afternoon Dan rigged up a tiller extension, attached it to the wheel with Velcro. You can’t take the small boat racer out of the cruiser.

The fishing poles were out. Funny story, pole one caught a fish flies overboard unbeknownst to us. Pole two starts to run, turns out, Pole two catches the line of pole one, retrieved lost pole, threw small fish attached to pole one back.

We decided to anchor for the night, at sunset, behind Isla Santa Margarita, a nature reserve, restricted island. As we approached the anchorage, we were greeted by at least 100 dolphins, they didn’t come to surf our bow, they were feeding, circling a school of fish. What a sight to see so many! Sorry no photos, the sun had just set it was starting to get dark.

Monday March 30 – Day 3

For breakfast we made mango, banana, pineapple smoothies with yogurt, almond milk and a scoop of protein powder. Yummy, just like home! Anchor up around 10am.

We anchored later for the night in Bahía Magdalena, bay protected by unpopulated sandy barrier islands of Isla Magdalena and Isla Santa Margarita, near where fishermen inhabit the remains of an old whaling station.

For dinner we had beef sausage with potatoes, onions and a pepper along with a salad.

The nights have been chilly, we warmed up the cabin by baking banana bread.

Tuesday March 31 – Day 4

Anchor up around 8am. Breakfast was “eat what you want”.

The shoreline on the Pacific side of the Baja has many coastal mountains where the rocks meet the water with no beach.

When we were at the fuel dock back in Cabo, there were three other sailboats, all heading north, getting diesel too. We left a day or so before them. Today they caught up to us. We had stopped twice since we met them. Now we are four boats traveling together, heading for Turtle Bay. Bumble Bee, Shamaal, and Aldabra, none are “kid boats”. These boats are motor sailing faster than the buddies we had with kids.

Dinner started with guacamole, as it often does. Typically with no left overs.

For dinner we had Ancient grains with salsa and black beans.

Wednesday April 1 – Day 5

We had light winds this morning building as the day progressed to 16 knots true, 19 knots apparent.

We caught a fish today! A 25” Skipjack.

The plan was to sail overnight to Turtle Bay. The other three boats we are tagging along with collectively decided to stop at Bahía Asunción, a fishing village for all kinds of seafood including lobster, abalone, seabass, yellowtail. We are going to follow them. There will be a few days of higher winds coming so we may be there a while. Either location we would be spending a few days. We anchored just after sunset.

This past three days have been chilly with temperatures in the 60’s. With the wind, it feels much colder. During the days and at night we have our full cockpit enclosure down, we’re wearing long pants and foul weather gear at night. Quite a contrast from the Panama and Costa Rica days and nights, but then again we are going north.

Thursday April 2 – Day 6

Hair cut day! I cut Dan’s, Dan cut John’s, John cut Joy’s bangs, Joy trimmed my length! ✂️

Waiting for Larry or is it Tomas? The town is all closed, we are not allowed on shore. Hotel La Playa, a Mc hotel on the beach, can arrange for diesel or provisions to your boat. Larry stopped by the boat, we gave him our trash and a small grocery list. Tomas is Larry’s uncle who owns a restaurant in the town. Asked if we could get a for a menu to order take out for dinner. Larry said he had to work tonight and is unable to deliver to the boat. $227 Pesos, about $11 USD, for 18 eggs, coffee, 1 loaf of bread, 8 apples and a bunch of bananas.

This afternoon’s matinee Indiana Jones, Raiders of the Lost Ark, with buttered popcorn of course.

For dinner we had fish tacos using our “catch of the day”.

Friday April 3 – Day 7

The anchor was up before 6:30am. Heading for Turtle Bay. The weather may get a bit rough late afternoon, windy, hope to arrive before dark. We can’t get any kind of internet access here at Bahía Asunción. The next good weather window isn’t till Monday. A daytime sail will be ok.

We caught a 29” Skipjack!

Arrived and anchored in Turtle Bay just before 5pm. The wind wasn’t too bad, the last three hours we saw 20 knots of true wind. Prior it was 6-15 knots true.

For lunch we made homemade chicken noodle soup in the pressure cooker, perfect for the chilly weather.

Fish tacos again tonight with our catch of the day. It was so good last night we decided to make it again.

No internet access here also.

Friday March 27

We took showers today! Did 5 loads of laundry between us and went food shopping! That was exhausting. With a rental car went to Costco and Walmart, bought mostly produce, several canned goods and a new wagon to use for shopping.

Returned back to boat around 4pm, put everything away, decided to take a drive around Cabo. We ended up at Todos Santos, a small artsy town filled with shops, galleries and restaurants. Everything was closed, however there was one restaurant open, we stopped for dinner at this quaint establishment La Morena and were the only ones there. Joy and I had Chicken Mole, John had ribs and Dan had a shrimp dish. Excellent food! (And they had wipes an hand sanitizer too.)

Thursday March 26

Cabo San Lucas, a resort city on the southern tip of Mexico’s Baja California peninsula. It’s known for its beaches, fishing, water-based activities and nightlife.

We arrived at Cabo escorted by whales!

Cabo is like a ghost town right now, I’m sure it’s like this everywhere. The marina is surrounded by shops, restaurants and hotels, most of which are closed. We had lunch at one of the few that were opened. They assured us the tables were disinfected, there was also a bottle of hand sanitizer on the table.

We sampled different Tequilas, one bottle was purchased for the boat.

After stopping at a small food store to pick up a few items, we headed back to the boat, a few took naps, we planned our route with weather for the next few days.

Three day passage March 24-26

Day 2- When we arrived at the shipping channel entrance at Mazatlán, we turned 90 degrees heading to Cabo San Lucas.

It was an uneventful day till Dan caught a medium sized Marlin or sword looking fish, it jumped and several times till the line broke, the big one that got away.

For dinner we had left over taco seasoned millet, added one of each cans of, corn, diced tomatoes, black beans, canned chicken, topped with taco sauce and shredded cheddar cheese.

Tonight was the first time since December on the ICW, we dropped the side panels in the cockpit to stay warm. The low temperature tonight will be 70, but add 13-15 knots of wind gusts to 18 knots the real feel is quite a bit lower.

The milky way a sky full of stars and bioluminescence in the water.

Day 3- lazy day at sea, we sailed with a nice breeze all day till around. 12-15 knots abeam till 5pm when the wind dropped to 6. Fishing poles were out, hopefully we’ll be successful. Joy read 2 books today, I re-read “Forks over Knives”, it was on my phone. Dan and John worked on the water maker plumbing as well as few other boat projects.

The door where the trash can goes wouldn’t stay closed so Dan adjusted the latch.

We watched whales spouting air, didn’t see their bodies.

For dinner we cooked rice, added rehydrated gourmet mushrooms, celery, roasted red peppers including the oil from the jar, and 2 quinoa with red peppers and artichokes ready to eat cups.

It has been a ritual on this trip, we stop everything to watch the sunset together. Later at night, the milky way a sky full of stars and bioluminescence in the water.

Monday March 23

After breakfast the dinghy was lowered and we went ashore. There is fishermen’s village on the beach, they were busy getting ready to work.

Isla Isabel is volcanic island 40 miles off San Blas, nicknamed the Galapagos of Mexico due to the number of nesting birds and iguanas that are free of natural predators. The island was deemed a World Heritage Site resulting in protection on a local and international level.

The island is home to frigates, blue-footed boobies, brown boobies, red footed boobies (we didn’t see them), brown pelicans, white-tailed tropic birds, Heerman’s gulls, sooty terns and brown noddies as well as green iguanas and the Mexican milk snake(didn’t see them either).

The active fishing camp is on the beach in the southern bay. An abandoned research building also sits an the western edge of the bay.

We climbed to top of that hill, that’s were all the colored footed birds were.

Day 1-We left Isabel around 3pm headed for an overnight sail towards Mazatlán.

For dinner I made traditional American tacos, using millet with the taco seasoning instead of beef.

After sunset, we saw the milky way a sky full of stars and bioluminescence in the water.

Sunday March 22

Anchor up at 6:25am sailed to Isla Isabel to anchor for a day or two. For breakfast Dan made scrambled eggs with potatoes, and pineapple on the side.

Three whales swam close enough to get a few photos.

We arrived at Isla Isabel 4:30pm set anchor then captain’s hour. Tomorrow we plan on going a shore to explore.

Dinner was leftover chicken and pasta with a green salad.

Saturday March 21

Anchor up by 7:30am, on our way to San Blas Mexico, will anchor there for the night. No plans on going ashore, social distancing.

Baby rays were swimming by our boat as we approached the bay.

For dinner we made pasta tossed with raw green bell pepper, onion, and celery with and olive oil dressing in spices, topped with shredded Parmesan cheese. #pacificoceanquarantine