We stopped at the site of the old Waialua Estate coffee/chocolate plantation. Had a quick tour on the coffee process. Founded by Dole foods, the 155 acre plantation now sits on a former sugarcane lands.
Coffee beans
Old coffee mill
This evening we were invited over to Joey & Yana Cabell’s home for a dinner party. We had buffalo meat from Ted Turner’s ranch in South Dakota. Yana presented us with Leis and Tores made me a beautiful head wreath. We first met them in the marina parking lot, asking them about parking permits. We purchased the lamb meal kits from their restaurant The Charthouse, last weekend. Joey Cabell, in the 1960’s was the best surfer in the world.
Tores made the head wreath for me
Joey and Torea, entertained us on the Ukulele and Guitar
Saturday October 3, beach day! We drove the other side of Pearl Harbor near all the resorts like The 4 Seasons, the Marriott and Disney’s Aulani. There are four lagoons, Ko Olina Lagoon #4 is public, the other 3 appeared to private.
Sunday October 4, *Sourdough Notes* two more successful Pain au Belle loaves today! There was quite a bit of sourdough discard in the refrigerator, so I used some of it to make scones and crackers.
Meanwhile, Dan and Larry went sailing with Joey and his friend JJ on Joeys catamaran.
25 ft color code
Before dinner, Dan and Larry painted the chain links on the anchor chain.
Wednesday September 30, shopping day, Best Buy, Home Depot, Costco, Hardware store, West Marine, diner outside at Tropics, baked banana bread with sourdough starter. After I think I’ve perfected a banana bread recipe, I tried a new one using sourdough starter, oh boy not sure which one is better!
With sourdough starter
My modified recipe
Sunset
Thursday October 1, more sightseeing.
Larry, (who is an USAF Lt. Col. retired) took us on base at Bellows Air Force Station as well as Kaneohe Bay Marine Corp base.
Then to the punch bowl, National Cemetery of the Pacific, a memorial to those who served in the armed forces. It is a volcanic crater’s with beautiful tree lined roads and is meticulously landscaped. The Hawaiian name is Puowaina, which translated as “Hill of Sacrifice”. (Hawaiians used to offer human sacrifices there.) The memorial has a small chapel and tributes to the various battles fought in the Pacific depicted in beautiful mosaic pictures. Etched on the marble walls along the stairs are the names of those who’s bodies were not recovered from the Pacific theater.
For dinner, we stopped at a grocery store picked up some salmon. I baked it with a honey, soy sauce mixture, served with roasted potatoes and green beans.
In memory of those lives lost and entombed on the Arizona
Oil still leaks from the ship
This is where the galley was
In normal times 4500 people per day visit the Arizona, ferries run every 30 minutes to the site. There were 5 including us on the 11:30am ferry, the day before, 50 people total visited.
After lunch we met up with Julie and Will at their house. They took us on a trail hike to see the Lanikai Pillbox also known as the Ka’iwa Ridge Trail. It’s an intermediate level trail hike, steep, dirt and rocky. Elevation 565ft, 2.5 miles out and back.
As seen from the beach
Inside the Pillbox
After the hike, we walked the beach, then headed back to their house where Will made a delicious Paella for dinner.
*Sourdough Notes*- Two loaves baked this morning, success!
For lunch we had ham and cheese sandwiches on sourdough bread! After lunch we went for a walk down the canal, then picked up Biki rental bikes and rode around for a bit.
Tuesday September 22, boat project morning. Dan went up to the top of the mast to rethread the halyard for the code 65 sail that broke. After lunch, we went to the beach!
Pizza for dinner, local establishment not homemade.
Waikiki Beach
Wednesday September 23, laundry day.
Sculpture in front of the Hilton Hawaiian Village
*Sourdough Notes*- as we will be at a marina for a while, I’m working on getting my “starter” going. The dehydrated one I purchased on Maui. Today is day 1.
Beach Day!
Thursday September 24, at noon, it was 87F feels like 91F. Nice breeze coming through the cockpit as Dan and Larry try to tighten the “play” in the wheel, always “Tinker Dan.”
Beach Day!
Friday, September 25, we had visitors this morning! Julie Miller and her husband Will are in the Navy, stationed at Pearl Harbor. We’ve known Julie’s parents for decades through sailboat racing Thistles. They were kind enough allow us to ship boat parts to their house. Julie brought us beautiful Hawaiian Leis!
The rest of the Dan and Larry installed our new D400 wind generator that was shipped to Julie.
Sunset
Saturday September 26, more boat chores. Dan put the Code sail back on its own halyard. Then along with Larry they washed all the exterior teak, prepping it to seal.
Cleaning
Cleaning
Sealing
Sealing
*Sourdough Notes*- my first bake this morning! Sourdough Scones made with starter discard, they were so good! Also baked M & M’s cookies.
Sourdough Scones
M & M’s cookies
Sunset
A few days ago we met Yana and Joey who own the Chart House Waikiki restaurant. Real nice people! Today the restaurant was selling “meal kits” and bottles of wine at half price. On the menu was Rack of Lamb, fresh baked Baguettes and Arugula with a Mango White Balsamic dressing. We purchased two meals for the three of us. Dinner tonight, with mashed potatoes.
Sunday September 20, arrived in Oahu sound 2:30pm, dropped anchor in Maunalua Bay for the night. It’s going to another rock’n and roll’n night, waves and wind.
Koko Crater
Chicken Cacciatore for dinner
Sunset over Diamond Head
Monday September 21, finally the Ala Wai Boat Harbor got back to us. So many documents required here in Honolulu, Hawaii for getting a slip in a marina, including getting your insurance company to add the marina to your policy as additionally insured. So we’re all set, let’s go.
After connecting to shore power and water, time to do some boat cleaning. We washed all the salt off the boat deck, cockpit as well as rinsed all the ropes and teak. Also removed the surface rust from the stainless steel. Next project will be resealing the teak.
Tuesday September 15, we left Lahaina Marina just after noon, headed towards Molokini Shoal Marine Life Conservation District to do some snorkeling.
Molokini is a crescent-shaped, partially submerged volcanic crater, and is an underwater sanctuary. Located 7.5 miles off the coast of Maui, it is half-mile wide and rises 160 feet above sea level. During World War ll, the US used it for target practice. In 1977 Molokini and the surrounding 77 acres of underwater terrain were declared a Marine Life Conservation District.
Lahaina Marina
Clouds over Maui
Molokini
Dan and Larry snorkeling
Sunset over Molokini
We anchored for the night at Makena Beach, a little sheltered from the waves.
The Milky Way and a sky full of stars!
Wednesday September 16, we were up early, 5:30am. Heading towards the Big Island.
Clouds over the Big Island
Captain James Cook Monument
Sunset
Dinner
We anchored at sunset in Kealakekua Bay, in Hawaii, just outside the restricted area. Vessels need a permit to be in the bay. Inside the bay on the shore stands a white obelisk to memorialize explorer Captain James Cook.
For dinner I made Southwest Chicken Skillet with rice. Larry can pick out the zucchini and red peppers.
After dinner, we heard splashing in the water around out boat. Dan shined a flashlight in the water, there are Manta Rays swimming around us!
Manta Ray, 15sec. video
The Milky Way and a sky full of stars!
Thursday September 17, cruising north up the leeward coast. Much of the coastline are lava fields.
Mauna Kea, a dormant volcano, stands at 13,803ft above sea level. It is the highest point in the state of Hawaii. Most of the volcano is underwater. If measured from its base, it would be the tallest mountain in the world at 33,500ft. Thirteen telescopes, funded by eleven different countries, have been constructed at the summit. The Mauna Kea Observatories are used for scientific research across the electromagnetic spectrum and comprise the largest facility of its kind in the world.
USGS.gov photo
Mauna Kea is 125ft taller than Mauna Loa which last erupted in 1984. Kīlauea stands at 4091ft above sea level, sitting East of Mauna Loa, is one of the most active volcanos in the world, last eruption was in 2018. Hualalai stands 8271 ft above sea level, last erupted 1801, it is expected to erupt again within the next century.
Larry madeTuna Noodle Casserole for dinner
Sunset
The Milky Way and a sky full of stars!
Friday September 18, anchor up by 8am headed back towards Maui.
At 8pm EST, there was a large family zoom get together to sing and wish my sister in-law Sue, a happy 60th birthday.
Maui
Sunset
Pizza
We anchored just after sunset in Honolua Bay. I made sausage and pepperoni pizza for dinner, one slice left!
The Milky Way and a sky full of stars!
Saturday September 19, sailed around the north shore of Moloka‘i Island. The north shore by the Forest Reserve is breathtaking!
Moloka‘i Island, north shore
Leftovers for dinner. We anchored for the night on the western shore, it was quite rolly all night, the boat never did settle into the waves.
6:30pm sunset
6:36pm sunset
Sunday September 20, on our way by 9:30am, towards Oahu.
Saturday September 12, Haleakalā National Park, an International Biosphere Reserve that supports native ecosystems in a volcanic landscape.
The Observatory
The Park Service incorporates Native Hawaiian guidelines and knowledge of cultural resources, using traditional and modern methods for the preservation of natural resources. The Summit District, the main feature is the crater. It is 6.99 miles across, 2.0 mi wide, and 2,600 ft deep.
At the summit, Sunrises and sunsets are popular events as well as stargazing. The park in normal times is open to visitors all day year round.
Sunday September 13, we were up and out before 8am. Another sightseeing day by car. We drove down to Hana on a crazy curvy road, on a quest to find the grave of Charles Lindbergh. The landscape on the drive was mountainous and lush with green vegetation. There were several small waterfalls and “swimming holes” along the way.
Charles Lindbergh died in Maui, 1974, and was buried at the graveyard of the Palapala Ho’omau Congregational Church. The inscription reads, ‘If I take the wings of the morning, and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea C.A.L.’
More photos from our excursion, fruit and coastlines.
Breadfruit
Coconuts
Bananas
Monday September 14- food shopping day, we’re leaving Maui tomorrow, going to sail around the Big Island then sail to Oahu.
My sourdough starter failed again, for the third time. I’m going to blame it on the rough sailing when we left Eureka. It was difficult to measure the flour and water, not to mention trying to keep it fed. At one point it spilled all over the counter. Here in Maui I found Maui Artisan Sourdough Bread Co.. He has an Etsy shop and sells his starter, so we went to his warehouse today and I purchased some. Not having an address to ship to, this was a great find! I think I’ll wait untill we get to Oahu to start the process as the next week or so we’ll be traveling.
We came across this old beach front cemetery, in the sand dunes, The Puupiha Cemetery. Headstones commemorate the lives of Japanese laborers. They originally came to Hawaii to work the pineapple and sugar cane fields in the 1800’s. The left facing swastika seen on several stones is used as a symbol of divinity and spirituality in ancient religious cultures of Eurasia. It continues to be used as a symbol of good luck and prosperity in Hindu and Buddhist countries such as Nepal, India, Mongolia, China and Japan.
Across the street from the cemetery is the Lahaina Jodo Mission. The mission is a replica of a Japanese Buddhist temple. The statue was erected in 1968 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Japanese immigrants arriving in Hawaii.
Maui is the second largest of the Hawaiian Islands. Major industry is tourism, primary agricultural products are corn ,seeds, coffee, macadamia nuts, papaya, flowers and fresh pineapple. Haleakalā is 10,023ft high dormant volcano, last erupted over 500 years ago, one of the world’s largest volcanic craters. At the crest of the volcano sits The Haleakala Observatory, not open to the public, is an astronomical research and development facility, free from light pollution, offers observation of satellites, missiles, man-made orbital debris, and astronomical objects.
We took a short 3 mile walk around Lahaina this afternoon, stopped for a Dole Whip (soft serve dairy-free frozen dessert) along the way. I had a cup of lemonade and pineapple, Dan had a cup of Raspberry, Larry had a Chocolate Cheesecake and Macadamia Nut in a waffle cone.
Plumeria flowers
Holy Innocents Church
Maria Lanakila Catholic Church
Maria Lanakila Cemetery
Deserted Front Street, Lahaina
countryside
Lahaina Lighthouse, the first lighthouse in Hawaii
For tonight’s dinner, fresh caught Mahi-mahi with yellow rice!
Thursday September 10, laundry day…a 2.5 mile round trip walk mid morning, 7 washing machines $36.00, 6 dryers $15.00, lunch at Bubba Gumps on the way back to the boat. Wheeled our wagon full of clean laundry in bags, right in next to our table. Had lunch outside on the patio, we were the only ones there.
Looking to rent a car for the weekend to tour around Maui. We called Enterprise, cause they “pick you up”. What a run around! The girl on the phone said we had to quarantine for 14 days before we could rent a car. Her manager did admit their policy is geared for arrivals via airplane, but he would have to clear it with his manager if they would rent us a car. We told them both we have proof of our journey, they have yet to call back. Meanwhile we acquired a vehicle from a competitor.
Sunset
Friday September 11, Happy Birthday Kevin!
The boat was moved to a different slip this morning. The one we were in was really for loading and unloading, we were there for three days. It was an interesting process, we backed in-between two other sailboats, where one end of each boat is attached to individual mooring balls, the other end to the dock. There are no finger docks between boats. It’s Mediterranean style docking.
Scenic Makena Landing Park
With a rented car from Lahaina Auto Rentals, we stopped for lunch at Tante’s Fishmarket Restaurant & Bar, sat outside, only ones there, sitting outside. Also came to check out the Marina here too. During lunch, the manager from the Lahaina Marina called, apparently the two boats we parked in between complained, so now we’re going back to our spot on the temporary dock. We liked it better there anyway.
After lunch we drove through Mākena State Park, with it’s beautiful beaches.
Nearby we also drove on a paved road through a lava field on Cape Kinau.
Sunset
For dinner we went to the Lahaina Yacht Club. Because we are staying in the Marina, we have “privileges” there. Drinks and dessert is what we had.
We didn’t move the boat back as the space was occupied by another sailboat. We called the Marina manager, we’ll see what happens tomorrow. It appears to be a foreign vessel and may be violating Hawaii quarantine laws, as well docking without authorization, no one was on the boat when we stopped by.
Wednesday August 26- Day 1 6:15am PST we’re off to Hawaii! Crossing the Pacific Ocean!
The winds were brisk and waves high, as were cruising 9-12 knots speed over ground with 25-32 knots of true wind.
We reached across the fire breathing dragon!
Late afternoon a loud thud was heard, our D400 wind generator fell off the boat. The weld failed. We also have solar panels to charge the batteries. A bolt that holds a diagonal bar on the Bimini fell off, Dan replaced it. With big waves and wind items below fell, even when we thought everything was secure. Other casualty’s of the day, one plastic stemless wine glass, one plastic drinking glass and one ceramic coffee mug.
D400 Wind Generator
What is left of the wind generator
Sunset
Where the bolt came off
186 miles traveled this day. Max speed over ground 14.0kn, surfing down a wave, 33.4kn Max True wind speed
Thursday August, 27- Day 2 breakfast Cinnamon French Toast Casserole
Nautical Miles traveled, 180.
Sunset
Friday August 28 Day 3- overnight the winds shifted more north which was a good thing! Down to 18kn of breeze sailing 8.5 knots speed over ground.
Dan
Creamy Tuscan Chicken for dinner, no sun-dried tomato’s for Larry, he did give one a try!
Sunset
Saturday August 29, Day 4- Happy Anniversary Beth & Kevin!
The Pacific is as blue as the Atlantic!
Pizza for dinner.
Leecloths work well to keep gear secure
Sunset
Sunday August 30, Day 5- Trip time 98.27 hours, Distance 749.2nm, Ave speed 7.7 kn, Ave miles per day 184.5, Trip max speed 14kn.
Sunset
Monday August 31, Day 6- a few calls were made via satellite phone to try to get another D400 wind generator as well as the mounting bracket that failed at the weld.
After 6 days on starboard tack, we jibed.
We’re being followed by 2 Wedge-tailed Shearwater birds. We named then Viper and Maverick. They flew along side us, soaring between waves like fighter pilots flying through a canyon.
Jambalaya for dinner, Larry actually ate one pepper slice as well as the diced tomatoes!
Tuesday September 1, Day 7- this morning we jibed back to starboard, set the pole to wing and wing the sails. Course heading 220, straight to Maui 1019 miles to go!
Leftover jambalaya in a wrap for dinner.
Averaging 180 miles per day, however the next couple days will have lighter winds so our average will go down.
Dan is racing the blue, green, yellow and red imaginary PredictWind boats!
Sunset
Wednesday September 2, Day 8- after a night of several rain squalls, it was nice to see the sun in the morning. The Code 65 sail was deployed then the halyard broke, into the water she went. Dan and Larry pulled her back aboard, attached it to the spinnaker halyard, it was up flying again. Back in March, actually since we purchased the sail, we had issues with this sail not furling properly. Today the top won’t unfurl! Such a high maintenance sail!
Just before dinner Cody (code 65 sail) was furled in for the night.
For dinner we had potatoes sliced thin sautéed with bacon bits and cheddar cheese.
Dinner
A wench handle broke while tightening up the halyard, we have 3 more.
Maverick and Viper haven’t been seen in more than a day, they must be on a secret mission. We also have a new follower a white bird, resembling the white tail tropic birds we saw on Isla Isabel in Mexico, named him Iceman.
An hour before sunset, at 8:05pm boat time, Maverick and Viper reappeared!
Sunset
Moon set
Thursday September 3, Day 9- Happy Anniversary Ben and Rachael!
Sunrise
“Viper”
Sunrise 8:39am boat time (PST) at 11:00am today, we switched to Hawaii time UTC-10, it’s 8am again! 6 hours behind EST.
Dinner
Sunset
For dinner I made pasta with chicken in a spicy olive oil sauce.
Each day has become routine, eat, nap,watch, sleep.
Friday September 4, Day 10- Trip time 221.3 hours, Distance, 1563.0 nm, Ave speed 7.1 kn, Ave. miles per day 173.7 nm, Trip max speed 14kn
Scrambled eggs with bacon and cheese for breakfast
Dinner
The Pacific Ocean
Sunset
Cajun Rice for dinner with apple crisp for dessert.
2 hours of a sky full of stars with the Milky Way, then the moon rose, 93% waxing, lit the sky.
Saturday September 5, Day 11- 490 nautical miles to go! Water temperature 80.7 F
Crustless Taco Pie for dinner
Sunset
Sunday September 6, Day 12- lazy Sunday, the majority of the day was spent reading by all. I’m reading Nine Perfect Strangers by Laine Mariarty, Larry is reading Foxcatcher by Mark Schultz and Dan has been reading The Long Way by Bernard Moitessier.
Very cloudy sunset today, as there are scattered rain squalls about.
Monday September 7, Day 13– Labor Day, we all finished reading our books today.
Tuesday September 8, Day 14- we arrived in Hawaii this morning, 13 days, 12 hours, 2233 nautical miles, ave. speed 6.9 knots! Our quarantine was satisfied during the passage. All counties in Hawaii have a 14 day quarantine, Interisland travel also, except traveling to O’ahu from other Hawaiian islands.
We toasted our journey with a bottle of champagne!
Sunset
We had dinner outside at Paia Fish market Restaurant
Banyan Tree in Lahaina, the largest tree in the United States
The banyan tree in Lahaina, Maui was planted on April 24, 1873, to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the arrival of the first American Protestant mission. It is the largest tree in the United States. It covers 1.94 acres, stands 60 ft tall and has rooted into 16 major trunks.
Sailing Trance 