Sailing Trance

Saturday August 22- we arrive at 10am in the fog, dodging small fishing boats and kayaks in the channel.

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Eureka is a port city in Northern California established in 1850, as a transportation and supply center for the Gold Rush. Today, the entire city is a state historic landmark. The Old Town district features elaborate Victorian houses. Nearby Sequoia Park is home to massive old redwood trees.

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Several boat projects on list today. First up change the engine oil and both fuel filters.

For me, a little canvas repair. The top of the Bimini, where one of the structural poles run through, had a hole in it caused by wear. With a three inch wide piece of sunbrella, the width of the Bimini, doubled over raw edged folded to center, it was sewed seam down across the width along the pole line.

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While I was sewing the Bimini, the window was accidentally step on, as is was spread across the floor, and cracked. Fortunately I had extra Regalite vinyl window material that was used on the cockpit enclosure. I also replaced the other window in the Bimini as it was yellowed and you could see out of it.

Another project completed, well at least one side is done. Flaps added to the first panel of the enclosure for ropes to go through. Previously all the lines ran under the the panel. Hopefully this will add a little bit more protection from water spray and cold air. Our enclosure was designed for the fabric to be held out with Velcro attached to the lifelines to give room for operating the wenches.

Late afternoon, Dan and Larry did laundry, I finished up other little canvas repairs and baked banana bread.

Monday August 24- second canvas panel flaps completed today, as well as resewing several seams on windshield canvas.

Dan replaced the starter relay, Larry washed sheets.

We attended a family, Dan’s siblings and three kids, zoom meeting, great seeing everyone.

For dinner I made Shepherds Pie, without vegetables.

Tuesday August 25- today is our 41st Wedding Anniversary!

Provision day, it’s exhausting! Costco, Walmart, Ulta, WinCo Foods and North Coast co-op. There was place for everything on the boat!

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Tomorrow morning bright and early we will be departing Eureka, sailing to Hawaii! The journey is approximately 2300 miles, should take us 2-3 weeks. There is no cell service in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Blog posts will continue when we arrive. Here’s to fair winds and smooth sailing!

Monday August 17- we arrived at Westport Marina around 10am.

Westport, Washington is a cozy beach town located at the mouth of Grays Harbor off the Pacific Ocean. The Marina District is a working marina where you can watch fishing boats come and go, as well as purchase fresh local seafood on and near the docks.

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For dinner we did takeout from Merinos seafood. We all had fish and chips. It was by far the best we’ve had! Dan and I had Salmon, Larry had Cod.

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We departed Westport 1am as we need to put some miles behind us before bigger winds arrive on Saturday near Eureka.

Tuesday August 18- the day started with light winds on the nose then shifted northwest. We had both the code 65 and spinnaker deployed at different times during the day.

After the winds died down the engine wouldn’t start. The problem was diagnosed as a faulty starter relay. Dan was able to start the engine, by-passing the relay. A new relay was ordered, shipping it to a marina we’ll be going to.

We anchored for the night on the south side of point, Cape Lookout State Park, Oregon.

For dinner I made pasta and chicken with sautéed peppers, onions and mushrooms on the side. Larry is a picky eater, doesn’t like many vegetables.

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Wednesday August 19- anchor up by 8:00am, heading south to Coos Bay, another overnight. I get the 7pm-11pm shift, followed by Dan 11pm to 3am, Larry 3am to 7am. We don’t use a schedule for daytime.

It was foggy the majority of the day, with the wind on the nose. As night approached, the fog lifted revealing gray skies.

For dinner I made rice with turkey, no vegetables.

Thursday August 20- change of plans, the bar* at Coos Bay has a restrictions today due to wind and waves. So we’ll anchor for the night at Point Orford.

Port Orford is a small, artistic, fishing town in the Southern Oregon. It is the most westerly city in the continental U.S.

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By 3pm we had dropped anchor.

From a house on the cliff, we were sent via social media two photos of our boat. Thanks!

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The sky was very overcast, with low clouds. At sunset we could see the sun shining on mountains across the bay, but couldn’t see the sun.

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For dinner I baked homemade pizza, notice the 1/3 without vegetables, that’s for Larry!

Friday August 21- pancakes for breakfast.

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Followed by whales for morning entertainment! There were at least two of them.

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For dinner I made tuna noodle casserole, Debbi’s (Larry’s wife)recipe without the chips, somebody ate them all.

The fog lifted for several hours revealing The Milky Way and a sky full of stars! Then gently rolled back in.

*bar refers to sand bar at the entrance to Coos Bay.

Friday August 14- shopping for a week, then by 2:30pm we were in the water!

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We dropped anchor at 7:30pm in Bayloy bay on Lopez Island.

Saturday August 15- anchor up by 7:30am.

By 8:40pm we dropped anchor at Neah Bay, Washington.

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Sunday August 16- 10am anchor up. We’re doing an overnight passage today, Larry’s first of many. I’ll take the first shift, Dan and Larry will do the second together. Destination is Ocean Shores, Westhaven Cove Boat Basin. Over 20 knots of wind with rolling swells and waves, 15-20 degree heel, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for dinner. I have my limits!

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The Milky-way and a sky full of stars!

Monday August 10- Happy Birthday Rachael (and Andrea)! Trance was hauled out of the water this morning. We wanted to check the area where the whale hit us before we cross the Pacific Ocean.

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Dan’s brother Larry arrived today, he’s sailing with us to Hawaii. As soon as the repair job is complete, we’ll be on our way. So for now it’s hotel time, as they won’t let us stay on the boat, or in the yard after hours. We’re staying at a really cute Bed and Breakfast The Nantucket Inn, here in Anacortes. If you’re ever in the area overnight and need a place to stay, we would highly recommend it. For dinner we went next door to Bob’s Chowder Bar.

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Tuesday August 11- another trip to the dentist for me, third time since February. Once in Costa Rica again in Mexico, nothing too serious, this Dentist thinks I may have a broken nerve or the tooth is slightly cracked below the gum line. He said eventually it will need to come out, but it still has life to it now. It’s not painful, just pressure. Funny, 3 dentists, 3 different opinions. 5.2 miles walking.

The insurance adjuster stopped by today, he’ll come back tomorrow as the yard here is going to grind away at the fiberglass so they can see the extent of the damage. Pizza for dinner.

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Wednesday August 12- on a side note, I’m learning to make sourdough bread! My first “starter” failed, so I’m trying again. The Sourdough Schoolhouse periodically offers a free Zoom workshop, it’s live with prerecorded videos. This morning I watched. Access to today’s videos will be available for 30 days which is a good thing. I’ve never attempted sourdough bread making.

Meanwhile back at the boat, Dan and Larry installed the new Iridium Go with Predict Wind. I walked to the boat after my class, then to West Marine to get a part they needed to complete the installation.

For dinner we went back to Bobs for more clam chowder. Bob came outside to chat with us. Nice guy, the food is great! 5.9 miles walking.

Thursday August 13- laundry day, still waiting for fiberglass work to be finished. The goal is to be back in the water by Friday.

For dinner we did takeout from Ciao Bella. Great Italian food, huge portions! Good thing we walked 4.9 miles, to burn those calories.

Sunday August 8- up by 7, on to Anacortes. We are having the boat pulled out of the water to check on the area where the whale hit us. After calls to several marinas in the area, Cap Sante Marina in Anacortes was able to do the work starting Monday.

Anacortes is located on Fidalgo Island. It is halfway between Seattle and Vancouver BC. In a 90 minute self guided walk around town, one can see the historic buildings and houses. Ferry’s also run to and from the San Juan Islands from here.

We walked 6 miles after dinner around downtown Anacortes. When we were here in June, we explored what was to the left of the marina. Today we went right. Really cute touristy town. On several buildings throughout downtown, there are “cutouts”. Most were of historical people who first had a business in that building.

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Craig is also departing Trance today. His daughter Alicia and her husband live in Portland, they are driving up, spending the night in Seattle together, then dropping him off at the airport.

Friday August 7- we departed Port Angeles around 9am, down Puget Sound heading for Edmonds, located 15 miles north of Seattle.

For dinner I cooked the halibut we were given in Metlakatla, along with cheesy mashed potatoes, it was so good!

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Saturday, August 8- cleaning day, Dan and Craig worked on the auto pilot. Thistle sailor friend Wayne Balsiger who lives in the area, stop by to say hello. We had dinner outside at Anthony’s, tables were more than 6 ft apart.

Sunday August 2, Day 1- we departed Metlakatla by 7:20am, without going ashore and exploring the village. Goodbye Alaska so sad to depart, what a wonderful adventure it was, June 17-August 2, 2020.

The route, head south down the Clarence Strait to US / Canada border. South down the Hecate Strait to Queen Charlotte Strait, taking Vancouver Island on the Pacific side to the Strait of Juan De Fuca, to Port Angeles.

For dinner I made shrimp with rice. The cooked leftover shrimp was marinated 1/2 day in a ziplock bag, 1/3c honey, 1/4c soy sauce with about a tablespoon of jared garlic. I also added to mix 1 celery stalk sliced, 2 slices of onion diced, 3 small peppers cut in ring slices and maybe a dozen cherry tomatoes halved. Cooked white rice as directed, then dumped the contents of the bag into the cooked rice. Yummy!

Another gray overcast evening, no sunrise or sunset to watch.

Monday August 3, Day 2- Happy 4th Birthday Max!

Cinnamon French Toast Casserole for breakfast, a boat favorite.

10:45AM PST fly by small military/police/coast guard looking jet, O’ Canada is watching.

It was a beam reach sail all day 10-15 knots we were cruising at 7 knots speed over ground most of the day. Towards sunset the winds lightened quite a bit.

For dinner One-Pot Ham and Veggie Pasta.

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Tuesday August 4, Day 3- cruising the Pacific side of Vancouver Island. The wind was light all day, we had our Code 65 sail up for several hours till our boat speed dropped below 2 knots. The sun was shining with blue skies, the only clouds were those that hung over the Island.

For dinner I made Smoked Sockeye Salmon with rice.

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Wednesday August 5, Day 4- After rounding Brooks Peninsula, on Victoria Island, the winds were 20 knots true at 270, we sailing 7 knots, speed over ground.

For dinner I made pasta with smoked sockeye salmon, raw celery, onion and peppers, tossed in a spiced olive oil sauce.

It’s a foggy, gray, misty evening, no sunset or moon rise to watch.

Thursday August 6, Day 5- Port Angeles, Washington. We arrived close to 9:00am. I checked us in to the USA via the CBP Roam App. Technically we didn’t have to as we didn’t stop in Canada, the customs officer stated, because of Covid it probably won’t hurt in case Canada inquires about us.

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For dinner went back to the Next Door Gastropub for takeout.

Port Angeles, Washington is a small seaside town on the Strait of Juan De Fuca is known for whale watching, outdoor adventures and its proximity to the Olympic National Park. Throughout downtown you will find wonderful restaurants, coffee bars as well as several modern art sculptures.

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Near the marina is the Olympic Discovery Trail is a 8.4 mile waterfront paved trail accessible year round. There are several markers with historical information throughout.

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Tuesday July 28- laundry and food shopping day as well as a trip to the Post Office. We met several boaters on our dock, spent a lot of the day socializing (with distance).

Wednesday July 29- the boat was moved to the City Dock, from Bar Harbor, it’s closer to downtown Ketchikan. Our 5 miles of walking the historic district would have been over 10 miles. Many establishments were closed or out of business, there were a bars and restaurants open. It was the nicest weather day so far, sunny, blue sky in the mid 70’s.

Ketchikan sits at the southernmost entrance to the Alaskan Inside Passage – a network of waterways that wind through islands and beautiful wilderness. Known as the the salmon capital of the world, Ketchikan is also famous for its scenery and Alaskan Native culture.

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Tlingit tribe were first settlers to the area. In 1885 European explorers founded salmon canneries and a trading post. By the end of the century with the influx of miners, hunters, fishermen and loggers, Ketchikan developed as a “Wild West” frontier town. At the start of the 19th-century it was known as ‘Alaska’s wickedest city, focused on Creek Street, a boardwalk with houses built on stilts above the Ketchikan Creek. During prohibition it was the place to go for a drink of smuggled Canadian whiskey, prostitutes and backroom saloons. Today the houses are shops, galleries and restaurants.

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Thursday July 30- we departed Ketchikan around 9:00am, headed southeast to Behm Canal, part of Misty Fjords National Monument, New Eddystone Rock, pillar of basalt, a volcanic remnant, projects 237 ft from the sea near the entrance.

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In the late 1960s, members of the Mountaineering Association hiked this backcountry. The timber harvest was spreading southeast, this area was not on the Forrest Services exempt map. They formed the Tongass Conservation Society and fought to set aside this over 2 million acres of glacier carved valleys, waterfall-slicked granite cliffs and alpine highlands. In 1980, President Jimmy Carter created the Misty Fjords National Monument, later to be made an irrevocable wilderness status by Congress.

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We motored up Rudyard Bay, an inlet off Behm Canal, said to be the most scenic section. It did not disappoint! Just past sunset, picked up the mooring ball in Punchbowl Cove.

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Friday July 31- The drone was flying this morning, it’s height limit set at 400ft, not enough see over the mountain next to us at 3110 ft.

We departed the cove around 10am, when then drones 2 batteries were exhausted.

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Heading back down the Canal, for awhile we were sailing over 8 knots with 29 knots true wind off our starboard stern quarter, 343 true wind direction. We rounded the corner and the wind lightened. As we approached Metlakatla (met-la- KAT-la), where we stayed for two days waiting for a weather window, the wind was back over 20 knots.

Saturday August 1- Here in Metlakatla, we were told not to get off the boat unless we take a Covid test, coincidently we took one three days prior in Ketchikan. They were administrating free test near the dock, drive and walk up, so the three of us did. There are no reported cases of Covid here in this village, still waiting for test results. Joe owner of f/v Ocean Harvester gave us 6 lbs of Prawns and 2 lbs of Halibut, and Vance, crew on f/v Jaci Grace brought us 2.5 lbs of smoked Sockeye Salmon Strips.

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Metlakatla is the only Indian Reservation in Alaska.

For dinner I cooked shrimp with rice on the side. Just as we’re about to start dinner, Joe stopped by with 6 skewers of just cooked barbecue shrimp! Thanks Joe for the wonderful seafood!

Sunday July 26- “On the road again”, left the intimate city of Wrangell by 7:30am. Destination Anna Bay to visit the Wildlife Observatory. We arrived shortly before 11:30am, departed around 4:30pm for Meyers Chuck, we arrived there around 10pm.

Anan Creek has the largest pink salmon run in Southeast Alaska, attracting large numbers of black and brown bears during July and August. The observation platform and photo blind overlook cascading falls where the salmon jump up river and the bears catch their meal. 250 boardwalk steps, up and down, 1/2 mile, to get to the bear blind.

The Anan estuary Observatory is only accessible by boat or plane. Access to the site is managed by the Forest Service, the number of visitors in a normal year was limited to 60 per day, this summer the limit is 24. There typically is a high demand for daily passes, they should be obtain at least 6 months in advance. We purchased our passes online Saturday for entrance on Sunday. There was only the three of us and two other visitors that day.

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Monday July 27- Meyers Chuck, is off the grid, with no roads or cars, accessible only by boat or seaplane is a quaint area of approximately 25 residents located about halfway between Ketchikan and Wrangell. There is a dock for transients to tie up to. In normal times, during the summer, the dock would be full with boats rafted off each other two deep. We walked a trail that meandered by nearly every residence. We spoke to several people, all were so friendly and offered their knowledge of the town’s history. They even have their own zip code, the post office is open every other Tuesday, when the postmistress hangs out the flag.

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Ron’s great great uncle was a missionary who lived here, the only one who spoke English. When the Army Corp of Engineers surveyed the area, they named it after him, Meyers Chuck.

We departed after our walk, heading to Ketchikan.

Friday July 24- We arrived in Wrangell around 2pm, have a spot tied to the long dock.

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Wrangell was founded by Russians, is one of the oldest non-Native settlements in Alaska. It is the only community in Alaska that was governed by 4 nations, Tlingit Nation, Russia, Britain, and the United States.

1861 to 1898, Wrangell played a role in the major gold rushes: the Stikine River, Cassiar and Klondike Gold Rushes. These gold rushes transformed this small community to an activity filled center for miners with warehouses, hotels, dance halls, saloons, equipment and food stores as well as the first of many churches in Alaska.

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My. Dewey Trail, 1/4 mile one way, 300 ft rise boardwalk trail ending at platform overlooking Wrangell and the Zimovia Strait.

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Shakes Island where Chief Shakes Trial House is located, accessible by a boardwalk. Several Totems have been removed from their upright position for safety, will soon be replicated.

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Fro dinner we stopped at Zak’s for Haddock and Shrimp with fries.

Saturday July 25- a 6 mile walking day. Petroglyph Beach State Park, at low tide one can see some of the best surviving examples of native artists in southeast Alaska. This beach has the highest concentration of petroglyphs, rock carvings.

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Totem Park, tucked away in a garden behind some trees, stand several totems left to rot naturally.

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For dinner we ordered takeout from the Strikine Inn and Restaurant.

Our plan is leave here by 7am tomorrow to catch a favorable current.