Cape Town City Tour

Monday December 13, city tour with our guide Chris Spanneberg.

First stop Table Mountain, it has recently been named one of the 7 Natural Wonders of the World and is a World Heritage Site. Table Mountain is a flat-topped mountain overlooking Cape Town. Cable cars have been going to the summit since 1929. There are also hiking trails to the mountain top.

Camps Bay Beach, Cape Town’s party beach with its white sand edged by a walkway full of restaurants, clubs and hotels.

Next stop, a section of the city at the bottom of Signal Hill, hill known as Bo-Kaap. Formally known as the Malay Quarters. In the 1760’s these houses were leased to slaves. The slaves were known as Cape Malays as they were slaves brought from Malaysia, Indonesia as well as other parts of Africa to work in the Cape. The houses were all white, situated on the hilly cobblestone streets. Some streets are still the original stone. When slaves were allowed to purchase their houses, they were painted in bright colors as an expression of freedom. Many families living there now have been there for generations.

The Castle of Good Hope is a stronghold fort built in the 17th century. It used to be located on the coastline, but now due to reclamation, it is far from the waterfront. The castle was built by the Dutch East India Company, as a stopping place for ships coming from Europe to East Asia, so they could maintain their monopoly on the Spice Trade.

The firing of the signal cannon was used to alert those inside the fort that a ship had been sighted at sea. To this day, every day except Sunday and public holidays, the 1800’s signal cannon is fired at 12 noon. The cannon is located atop Signal Hill, at the South African Navy’s Lion Battery. The echo can be heard across the city.

City Hall, built in 1905, it is now used as a venue for cultural and social events, also it is home of the Cape Philharmonic Orchestra. On the balcony there is a Statue of Nelson Mandela, where on February 11, 1990, after he was released from prison, he gave a speech to unite the country and end help apartheid. The speech had a worldwide television audience. After 4 years of negotiations apartheid ended in 1994. City offices are now located at the Cape Town Civic Center.

The Company’s Garden is a historic urban park near the city center of Cape Town. First built as a replenishment station for the trade route between Europe and the east. Ships sent by the Dutch East India Company, after months at sea would stock-up on fresh produce grown in the garden, giving it the the name “The Company’s Garden”. Today the area is has tree lined paths with benches in a botanical setting.

The Houses of Parliament. Cape Town is home to South Africa’s Parliament, it is the legislative capital. The government seat or administration is located in Pretoria. Bloemfontein is the judicial capital. South Africa has three capital cities.

Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden established in 1913, is one of 11 National Botanical Gardens all under the direction of the South African Biodiversity Institute. The botanical garden is dedicated to the cultivation and study of indigenous plants of South Africa. Located on the eastern slope of Table Mountain, the estate includes a horticultural garden including many rare and endangered species, theme gardens and a nature reserve.

In the middle of the garden is a Tree Canopy Walkway that snakes over trees and has panoramic views. Within the garden is an amphitheater with lawn seating for performances. There is a plethora of natural texture throughout the gardens.

South Africa – Week 6, to Cape Town

Monday December 6, a weather window opened up giving us 4 days to make it Cape Town. Our planned departure will be tomorrow morning.

There is a washing machine at the yacht club, free to use. We did a couple loads then hung them out on the boat till it rained. For dinner the club had macaroni and cheese dinner with salads. One Mac and Cheese casserole had chicken, the other bacon.

Tuesday December 7 – Day 1, departed East London at 7:45am.

Not much wind to start, so we motored out to ride in the Agulhas current. The winds were light with swift current, 2-4knots in our favor. We were motor sailing to maintain speed 8-9knots speed over ground to keep within our weather window.

Wednesday December 8 – Day 2, 192.5 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours, average speed over ground 8.5knots mostly due to current.

Scrambled eggs for breakfast on the calm no wind morning.

The wind filled in early afternoon, predicted to be around 20knots. With a double reefed Genoa, our speed over ground is 11.5-12knots as we are sailing in the sweet spot of the current, it’s adding 4knots to our speed.

*Sourdough Notes* the Levain was started at the end of my shift Tuesday 12am. Dan finished the rest with my instructions. I fell into a winch on a wave, this morning, ribs to hard metal edge, a big ouch. Does not hurt to breathe nor yawn, just move. The impact was on high on my side, near my arm. Pretty sure I broke or bruised a few ribs.

Thursday December 9 – Day 3, 386 total nautical miles traveled, 193.5 nautical miles in the past 24 hours.

Continuing around the coast of South Africa, 35 24.178S, 23 00.842E is the most southerly point our journey has taken us. We are heading northwest out the the Agulhas current stream. Officially crossed the Indian Ocean, we are now sailing in the Atlantic Ocean.

Friday December 10 – Day 4, this morning at sunrise we are 36 Nautical miles from Cape Town. The wind has diminished, motor sailing probably the rest of the way.

Arrived in Cape Town, V&A Waterfront Marina a little after 12 noon. 572 total nautical miles traveled, 76 hour, average speed 7.5knots.

Saturday December 11, we walked along Battery Park, stopped at a small cafe for breakfast.

Battery Park is an urban park between the V&A Waterfront and Cape Town’s Business District. There are series of pedestrian routes, including one alongside the canal. The area has various outdoor recreation public spaces, a skateboard park, basketball court, standup paddle board rentals for use on the canal. Walkways are surrounded by restaurants stores and businesses.

Parked next to us in the marina is s/v Roxy. Caroline and Jerome from Belgium. I first met her on Facebook when we were in Tahiti, in the private French Poly Cruisers Group. They are friends with s/v Falbala. The four of us went for drinks an dinner at Victoria Wharf, it was Jeromes birthday.

The Victoria Wharf, located at the V&A Waterfront, is a very active mall with street performers, outdoor amphitheater, food courts, specialty shops and restaurants. Many stores are the same I would find in a mall at home.

Sunday December 12, we walked to the Oranjezicht City Farm Market for breakfast. It’s a weekend outdoor Artsy food, craft and produce market. Later we walked around the mall at Victoria Wharf.

Boat project for the rest of the day. We have a plumbing issue with the aft head. Ugh! Dan is going to replace the hose from the head to the three way valve.

South Africa – Week 5

Monday November 29, in the morning we walked to grocery store with Michael and Verina from s/v Webik, they are from Austria. Durban is a dirty, litter filled city from what we saw, walking distance from the marina, I’m sure there are nice areas too. When we checked into the marina a few days ago, they told us it’s not safe to walk around town. Also if we needed a taxi, ask them, they would recommend someone they trusted. With safety in numbers the four of us ventured off to the grocery store. When we arrived at the food store, it was like a different world inside from what is outside. It was well stocked and super clean.

Des Cason, our weather person, came to Durban to meet all of us for lunch. He is seated in the center in the bench.

Barbecue dinner with Michael and Verina on their boat. They are parked next to us.

Tuesday November 30, Two years ago today this journey began, now on to the home stretch. Now, we are waiting for a weather window to continue south and west to Cape Town.

Family photo before Dan, Danielle and I departed, November 30, 2019,

This morning along with Michael and Verina s/v Webik we went to a local pharmacy, Clicks, where we all received our third Pfizer COVID vaccine. Sunday night the South African president spoke urging people to get the vaccine. With that said, we anticipated a long line. Sadly there was only one person ahead of us.

We got cookies!

Wednesday December 1, boat project day along with a few sewing jobs. Still waiting for a weather to continue around the coast.

Local news report – Today, Shell Oil has started a seismic survey in search of oil or gas deposits from Morgan Bay to Port St. John’s off the eastern coast of South Africa. m/v Amazon Warrior accompanied by a support vessel, Ocean Fortune, and a guard vessel, Astra G, for five months will drag up to 48 air guns methodically through 6,011km² of ocean surface, firing shock wave emissions that penetrate through 3km of water and 40km into the Earth’s crust below the seabed.

On Sunday, there are planned protests in major cities to demand the government revoke permission given to Shell.

Thursday December 2, completed our 5 page exit papers to depart Durban, Pretty much the same documents when we left Richards Bay. Our destination is East London, Buffalo River Yacht Club.

Continued on my sewing projects, to gift, sell or barter.

For dinner there was a Braai at the Point Yacht Club. We grilled chicken and brought a macaroni tuna salad to share.

Friday December 3, The weather looks good, departed Durban today by 5:30pm along with s/v Ohana, s/v Webik, for East London. Just stating their journey around the world, s/v Sea Dancer, Beverley and Andree from Durban, also departing today for Cape Town.

We motored until after midnight as there was no wind. It took several hours to get to the Agulhas current.

Saturday December 4, The wind gradually filled in and main sail was deployed at 1:30am. The Genoa was set at 6am along with pole, wing on wing. Speed over ground ranged from 7-9knots. It has been raining all morning, a pesky drizzle started that took the wind away. SOG is still 5-6knots mostly due to 2knots of positive current. At times we saw 3.5knots of positive current.

Until we round the bottom of Africa, we want an easterly breeze, or no wind at all. A southwest breeze is dangerous here because when the wind is against the strong Agulhas current it creates high waves. So we will take short hops when favorable conditions exist.

Slippers on boat, perfect for this damp rainy day. Our full cockpit enclosure keeps us dry.

150 nautical miles traveled in the past 24 hours.

Sunday December 5, 9:30am we arrived at Buffalo River Yacht Club in East London, connected to the mooring system.

268 total nautical miles traveled, from Durban.

After lunch team Ohana invited us to join them on a city tour. First stop monument to German settlers and murals.

Lesotho

Sunday November 29, Day trip with s/v Ohana to the country of Lesotho. Lesotho is a small landlocked kingdom surrounded by South Africa. Our tour was with Zulu Safaris. We took the Sani Pass, Lesotho, 4×4 Tour. There were 10 of us traveling in two vehicles, each with a guide.

First stop Pietermaritzburg, 80km NW of Durban. It is the capital of KwaZulu-Natal. We had a short tour of the area then stopped at the Mahatma Gandhi’s statue in front of City Hall.

Next a drive through the Drakensberg Mountains and up to the Sani Pass into Lesotho. Passports stamped! The Sani Pass is a notoriously dangerous road, which requires the use of a 4×4 vehicle. It is the gateway to the ‘Roof of Africa’ a 9km scenic route that links the picturesque scenery of the Drakensberg mountains and mountains of northern Lesotho. The road is full of holes, loose rocks, boulders and gravel. It’s a serie of winding twists, switchbacks, hairpins, plunging drops and spectacular scenery. It is one of the highest roads of the country.

Basotho people are an ethnic group native to Lesotho and South Africa. Villages are often located high in the mountains, above the deep river valleys and flood danger. There you can find many flocks of sheep grazing in the summer growth amongst the villages.

We met Analina, she served us sweet bread and was selling items she had made. We purchased a very nice grass basket and a pair of earrings. After visiting the village we stopped to see Father Emmanuel Siphiwe Thato from the Tower of Strength Ministries where we gave donated items to him.

South Africa – Week 4

Monday November 22, went to several grocery stores in search of a Turkey breast, finally found one, It’s about 1kg or 2lbs.

Later in the afternoon a musical jam session was held by a few cruisers, then sundowners with our new friends from Mexico. They will be flying home in a few days to Mexico City to obtain a visa for South Africa, then fly back.

Tuesday November 23, took a drive to the next town to pickup new boat cards we had made as our stash was running low. Many cruisers have them to share your contact info with other boats. A few modifications were made to these, a different photo of us, our blog address, and logos added of Seven Seas Cruising Association and Ocean Cruising Clubs which we are members of.

The remainder of the day was gray with scattered rain showers.

Wednesday November 24, provisioning day, mostly produce, but enough for a week. Departing Richards Bay late Thursday for Durban, anticipate arriving mid morning on Friday, We shall stay there a few days then continue around the coast of South Africa. The rental car was also returned.

The checkout process was started. A seven page document was completed and stamped by the yacht club. Next stops customs, immigration then police to get it stamped, which we will do tomorrow morning. Eric will pick up Dan and drive him to the locations to get this document validated. After submitted it back to the yacht club, we will have 36 hours to depart Richards Bay. Each port in South Africa has the same checkout process.

Thursday November 25, 🦃 there are several American boats here at Zululand Yacht Club. We all gathered for dinner for a Friendsgiving celebration. Each boat bringing their own protein and a side dish to pass.

With ovens on most boats being small, it is not feasible for most to roast a large turkey. Our Turkey breast was poached in a white wine, chicken broth mixture with aromatics including onions, carrots, celery, green pepper with thyme sprigs along with rosemary, parsley and sage. We used our oven to bake an apple crisp then a sweet potato casserole which we brought to share.

What’s a thanksgiving gathering without a little football? Unable to find an American football, so a rugby ball was purchased. They are similar in size, it will work. Unfortunately it rained all morning and the grass was slippery and wet, the game was canceled.

There were 20 people sharing Thanksgiving dinner. We were outside under a covered picnic/bar area enjoying dinner by candlelight, Inflatable lights and flashlights as the electricity was off due to load shedding.

Departed Richards Bay 9:30pm in a misty rain.

Friday November 26, arrived in Durban around 2pm, 193kn miles traveled, average speed 6.5knots. This passage we switched our watch times, I slept from 11-2:30am, Dan 2:30 am – 5:30am. It was the first time on this journey I’ve witnessed an Ocean sunrise. Amazing when the sun rises how much it awakens you.

The port in Durban has one large marina with two yacht club buildings on either side, Royal Natal Yacht Club and Point Yacht Club. When we registered at the marina, our thumbprint was scanned. Placing your thumb on a digital reader at the gate is how you gain access to the guarded gated docks.

Saturday November 27, lunch at the Point Yacht Club. These water birds were hanging around the club.

iSimangaliso Wetland Park

Friday November 19, Together with Magaly and Didier from s/v Falbala, we took a day trip to St. Lucia for a Sunrise safari drive, exploring the Eastern shores of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park followed by Hippo & Croc Boat Safari up the St Lucia Estuary. These wetlands are designated a World Heritage Site, which are cultural and or natural sites considered important for future generations.

Then the road block occurred, we waited about an hour for the Elephants to move. There were three calves amongst the herd, so inching closer in the vehicle would create a dangerous situation.

Boat safari on the St Lucia estuary.

South Africa – Week 3

Monday November 15, this week has been full of relaxing, hanging out with friends both old and new.

Work on the teak was completed. Braai with all our French friends.

Tuesday November 16, On the boat, the same kind of pump is used in different areas. Using a pump repair kit, and two pumps that were not working properly, Dan was able to put together one pump that worked. This was used to replace the refrigerator drain pump.

Wednesday November 17, picked up a rental car to use for a week.

Thursday November 18, another gray rainy day with high winds. On the ocean there around 40 knots of wind, here in the bay there is 30 knots with gusts to 34 knots out of the southwest. (per another boat).

Friday November 19, day trip to iSimangaliso Wetland Park, see separate at post.

Saturday November 20, We installed new custom vinyl decals that were purchased for Trance. These are for the bow on both side. Decals are the same color as the name on the transom. Now we can be easily identified when docked bow in first.

Sunday November 21, Blueberry Pancake Sunday, then Magaly brought over four freshly made blueberry crepes!

Late afternoon s/v Ohana arrived at Tuzi Gazi, we went over to see them. Two of their youngest children are with the grandparents will arrive here by plane with them. Great to see this crew again!

Hluhluwe Game Reserve

Tuesday November 9, Day trip to Hluhluwe (sh-lew-sh-lew-we) Imfolozi Game Reserve. It is a Big 5 Game Park in the KwaZulu Natal Region of South Africa. The oldest reserve in Africa, 96000 hectares of Wilderness.

Our guide was Hayden Elliot from Outdoor Africa , he was extremely knowledgeable about the animals, plants and birds we saw as well as the park and South African history. Hayden picked us up from Zululand Yacht Club in a comfortable van where the second seat windows opened to the side for photo opportunities. Included in our tour was a mid-morning coffee/tea and biscuits break in the park, as well as a delicious lunch early afternoon, at a picnic table with Impalas and Zebra roaming nearby.

The weather was not ideal, it was chilly, and very windy with a few rain sprinkles. With a lot of searching, we did see 4 of the Big 5 animals, African Buffalo, Elephant, Rhinoceros, Lion and several other species. The fifth being the Leopard, a nocturnal animal is typically seen at night or sunrise if you’re lucky. They are called the Big 5 as these five large African animals are known to be dangerous and historically considered a triumph by trophy hunters.

South Africa – Week 2

Monday November 8, Eric is a local club member who will drive you around town, for a fee, instead of getting a taxi. He is well known throughout the club and his service is used by many cruisers. Along with Mark and Susan from s/v Erie Spirit (from Toledo, they’ve been cruising for 11 years), Eric dropped us off at the mall, the Boardwalk Inkwazi Shopping Center. Known as “the Heart of Zululand”, it has over 160 stores.

In the evening there was a meat and greet Braai (barbecue over wood or charcoal) sponsored by ZYC, Ocean Sailing Association of South Africa (OSASA) and Ocean Cruising Club (OCC).The event was for all the “International Yachties” that are here, about 20 boats.

The OSASA was formed within the past couple years, by three South African cruisers. They streamlined the country check in process, creating an online portal to fill out and upload required documents. Cruising boats visiting South Africa has increased in recent years as the Red Sea route has mostly been avoided due to pirate activity. Around the world sailboat races also include a stop in South Africa.

The OCC, administered from the UK, is an international club promoting long-distance cruising. Membership is open to anyone either as skipper or certified as competent by the skipper, who has completed a continuous ocean passage of at least 1000 miles, measured along the rhumb line, in a vessel of under 72 feet. The Ocean Cruising Club maintains a network of over 100 Port Officers worldwide to assist members.

Tuesday November 9, day trip to Hluhluwe Game Reserve (see separate post on the adventure). On the ride there our guide, Hayden Elliot, pointed out a few things along the way.

Eucalyptus Trees, not indigenous to South Africa but introduced from Australia, are engineered to grow fast and straight, ready to mill in just seven years. There are over 450,000 acres of trees here. They are the most valuable and widely planted commercial plantation tree species in the world, with high pulping yields and low production costs. The downside is the trees threaten the valuable water supply.

Typical Zulu people rural houses. Polygamy is legal in South Africa, each wife has her own house within the compound. The circular houses belong to the Grandmother.

Wednesday November 10, we hired a local contractor to finish stripping the varnish off the teak cap rails. On the side of the cap there is a metal strip, we didn’t remove the varnish below that strip or on the transom.

Dan went racing again in the evening on a different boat, they finished first. Shorter race than Sunday, around the channel buoys, not a typical race course, it was a zigzag path.

Thursday November 11, 🇺🇸 the work on the teak rails is almost complete. In the morning I baked lemon scones with lemon glaze. For dinner Curry Chicken, first time I made that, so good!

Friday November 12, Teak rail on the starboard side and stern is completed. The port side is cleaned, needs to be sealed then metal trim put in place, rain delayed the process.

Saturday November 13, Eric took us to the mall, Dan got a hair cut, we did a little food shopping mainly for produce and chocolate! We found at least four large grocery stores in the mall.

Falbala arrived this afternoon. Their passage from Reunion Island was not great. A day away from South Africa, their boat was struck by lightning in a storm. They lost all electronics, but we’re able to arrive under motor. We stopped over Tuzi Gazi to say hello.

Ohana is sailing to Richards Bay from Reunion, currently about 6 days away. Estran my be ready to leave by Friday, they are having their standing rigging replaced.

Sunday November 14, Blueberry pancakes for breakfast, with fresh blueberries!

“I Bless the Rains down in Africa”

Monday November 1, COVID test done, Health, visit from port Health Officer done… Oh, and the salt was washed off Trance today too. Still waiting….

Tuesday November 2, gray chilly, windy day with rain in the forecast. Immigration arrived at the boat at 8:30 am, passports stamped! In the afternoon, we went to customs office to complete the check in process. Later we moved Trance over to the Zululand Yacht Club where we’ll stay a few weeks before continuing around the coast of South Africa.

After walking around the club grounds, we stopped up in the Pelican Bar at the club. We met a few members, shared a couple drinks with them. Later went out to dinner with friends Simon and Jeff, it was a great night.

Wednesday November 3, laundry day

Another rant on our code sail. Cody is off to the North Sails loft in Cape Town to be looked at, hopefully it can be repaired there. How does a two year old sail that is barely used delaminate? Oh, and it tore, in two places, again along the leach line that has thinned (the foot has also thinned) where the Dacron luff tape is sewed, it supposedly has UV protection painted on the foot and luff. “3Di is stronger, lighter and more resistant to environmental factors than laminate string sails” says North Sails, not believing it!

In the evening at the bar, every Wednesday they recognize the new international yachts that have arrived, presenting them with a bottle of champagne. This acknowledgment is just before they give awards for Wednesday night racing.

Thursday November 4, Lunch with Michael and Priscilla from s/v Hylite. He’s from Australia she’s from Malaysia, however they lived in the US for many years. They departed on their journey in 2017 from San Francisco. In the evening we spent time at the bar with Jeff and Simon, they are leaving Friday.

Friday November 5, * Sourdough Notes* I officially ran out of King Arthur bread flour. When we departed Hawaii I had 50 pounds of it on the boat. I purchased a few kilograms of a high protein flour T-65 on Reunion Island. My dough is wetter than with the KA, next loaf I should about 30% less flour. The bread turned out great with a nice oven rise.

Comedy night at ZYC was delayed an hour from a blackout. The show was funny, lots of “local” jokes, the crowed enjoyed it.

South Africa has an Energy Crisis. It is an ongoing period when South Africa experiences widespread rolling blackouts as supply falls behind demand, It began in 2007 and still continues. Load shedding is used to relieve stress on a primary energy source when demand for electricity is greater than that power source can supply, demand is distributed. Energy here is from coal burning.

Saturday November 6, Trick or Treat on the docks, for those who wanted to participate a black balloon was hung on your boat.

Sunday November 7, Dan went racing on a local boat s/v Sea Scape with Robin and Charlotte, it was their first time racing. The race course was 20 miles out and back around an anchored freighter, as the mark.