Thursday January 28, On our way ashore mid morning, we stopped by s/v Seneto and s/v Joy to say goodbye, as well as s/v Lenora but they were not there. Those three are leaving in day or so, we may meet up again. Also took our trash and recycling to the dumpsters. The restaurants at the dock were not open yet, so walked to the little grocery store as Dan wanted sponges to use for applying teak sealer. Josephine’s is down the road next to the store so went there. Larissa and Christoph (s/v Lenora, were there so we had lunch with them on deck by the water. Glad we ran into them before leaving.
After lunch we video chatted with the kids, that was great!
Departed Rangiroa around 4:30pm, slack tide. Destination is the atoll Apataki.
Friday, January 29, Happy Birthday Ben! Arrived in Apataki around 11:30am. We are anchored on the far side near the boat yard. There is one other boat here s/v Let it Be from Quebec, Canada, Sylvain and Suzanne. We stopped at their boat to say hello upon returning from a short shore trip.
Saturday January 30, It was discovered when we pulled up anchor at Rangiroa, our Windless was failing. A Windless is motorized winch that deploys the anchor up and down. Dan needed to assist it using a winch handle and when we dropped anchor in Apataki. Today he worked on trying to remove the motor but looks like it’s epoxied to the fiberglass. Project for another day.
Chocolate day #5!
Oh my, the Stars! The Milky Way and the Southern Cross! Stargazed on the bow till the moon rose at 8:30pm
Sunday January 31, Happy Birthday Luke! *Sourdough Notes* Baked a Belle loaf this morning as well as chocolate chip cookies.
Departed our anchorage at 12 noon, to catch the outgoing tide at the pass. Heading for Toau. It is an atoll but there’s a false pass on the north shore we going to. The false pass is around 35ft deep until you get to range markers, then it’s very shallow coral reef. There are 7 mooring buoys here.
Monday, February 1, Happy Birthday Dan! Went ashore and met Valentine and Gaston who live here, often prepare dinner for the cruisers who visit. You can read about them in several South Pacific cruising guides.
Martial rowing back to his boat
Late afternoon we shared a bottle of wine with them as well as Martial who is on another boat here, celebrating Dan’s birthday.
Their pet Frigate bird Umu-Umu
Martial has been here for almost 2 weeks. He’s been helping Gaston build his boat.
Tuesday February 2, Ground Hog Day, he saw his shadow, 6 more weeks of winter!
Departed Toau at 7am, in hopes to catch slack tide in Fakarava around 2pm. Arrived right on schedule, connected to mooring buoy, engine off, relax time!
Monday January 25, took the dinghy over the other side of the pass to the village of Tiputa. Tried to purchase a Travel SIM card at the Poste, but they didn’t sell them. It was a peaceful walk, very few cars, several bikes.
Later back across the pass we had a wonderful lunch at the resort Les Relais Josephine, on the deck overlooking the water. WiFi was good there too, able to upload a blog post and some photos to Facebook.
For dinner we made reservations for dinner at Hotel Kia Ora Resort and Spa. We believe it’s the “fanciest” place on Rangiroa. The meal was exquisite!
Tuesday January 26, with rented bikes we first rode to Gauguin’s Pearl Farm. It was a very comprehensive tour on how oysters are grown and pearls are cultivated. The farm utilities many acres of lagoon water.
Oyster
Different containers for different size shells
Removing a pearl
Inserting the nucleus
The technician is working with two small batches of oysters as they can only be out of the water for up to two hours. With one batch, he’s inserting a mother of pearl seed “nucleus”, on which mother of pearl will grow to make the pearl. With the second batch, he’s removing a pearl. If the pearl is acceptable quality, he will insert another nucleus. If not, the oyster is used for other purposes, like eating and the Mother of Pearl shell is sent away for buttons and other jewelry. They will use the same oyster up to 5 times as long as it continues to produce quality pearls.
The nucleus is a bead of Mother of Pearl. They harvest thick shelled crustaceans from the Mississippi River. These shells are shipped to Japan, where they are sliced, cubed and shaped into spheres.
“Black” Pearls are unique to the Tuamotus and Gambier Islands. White pearls are cultivated in Japan, grayish pearls in Australia.
And of course there a boutique where you can purchase loose as well as mounted jewelry with pearls.
Afterwards we continued to the village of d’ Avatoru.
Then rode back to Les Relais Josephine resort where we returned the bikes and had lunch on their patio by the water.
Sundowner with homemade pizza on our boat with Kate and Will s/v Seneto from the UK and Arianne and Michael on s/v Joy from Holland.
Kate, Michael, Arianne, Me, Dan, Bill
Wednesday January 27, we missed yesterday as a chocolate day, so it’s today, number 4. Dan worked on the water maker plumbing, cleaned strainers, tightened the rudder post packing, lubricated the refrigerator drain pump and more… most of the morning. I was moral support and tool getter. After lunch we planned our next 3 atoll anchorages and timing getting into and out of the lagoons.
Atolls have narrow passes, and should only be entered at or near slack tide (or little current), as water can flow as much as 4-10 knots.
Wednesday January 29, Arrived in The Atoll Rangiroa anchored in the lagoon around 6:30pm as the sun was setting.
Thursday January 21, Went ashore to today good to walk around after being at sea for 4 days. Had lunch near the dock. A cargo supply ship had arrived, they come here every other week. Dan had posted on the French Polynesia Cruiser Facebook page we were here, another boat replied they were parked next to us. We stopped by their boat on our way back. Nice couple, s/v Lenora, Larissa and Christoph, he’s from Germany, she’s originally from Brazil, though her family now lives in Long Island, NY.
Friday January 22, it was a rainy morning so it was clean the inside of the boat day. When the rain stopped, we took about a 7 mile round trip ride in the dinghy to go to the post office. They sell Vini travel SIM cards there, looks like the only way to have internet access here except WiFi at restaurants, which isn’t very strong. Unfortunately the Post Office was closed, won’t open till Monday.
We returned to Trance to pick up a few reusable grocery bags headed to the little food store. The produce selection was better today after the arrival of the supply ship. We purchased cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, onions and lettuce and frozen salmon filets.
*Sourdough Notes* mixed the dough for a Belle loaf will bake it tomorrow morning.
Evening sundowners on our boat with our new friends from Germany, Christoph and Larissa.
Saturday January 23, *Sourdough Notes* baked bread this morning.
Made a trip to town to see if the smaller store was open, our friends told us they have fruit. We purchased apples, oranges and a small watermelon.
After returning to the boat we went snorkeling at a shallow area close to the where Trance is anchored. After lunch we dinghy’d over the island Motu Nuhi Nuhi, at the Tiputa Pass to snorkel. This area is a protected underwater aquarium with coral in several colors and little beautiful fish. There are several mooring balls to connect to as to not damage the coral with an anchor.
Sundowners with Kate and Bill s/v Seneto from Southampton UK.
Sunday January 24, lazy Sunday. Made sun tea using an empty rum bottle, looks like dark rum.
For dinner we grilled salmon filets, brushed with pomegranate molasses and foil roasted potatoes on the grill.
Day 1- Sunday January 17, the Tuamotu Islands are mostly Atolls. Destination, Rangiroa. Just before 9am, anchor up, on our way, escorted by a pod of dolphins.
6.7 speed over ground, 13.5 true wind, course over ground 215. Later we deployed the spinnaker, doing 7.4speed over ground with 12.6 knots of wind! It was up til sunset.
We are rationing our chocolate, one half bar every three days. Today is the first of 18 days of chocolate.
Oh my, the stars, the Milky Way, the Southern Cross!
Miles traveled 163 Average Speed 6.8knots Max Speed 11knots
Day 2-Monday January 18, cruising along averaging 6.9 knots, true wind 17-19 knots.
Dan cut one of the “grapefruits” we were given on Hakahau. They looked and tasted like grapefruit one the inside. Sweet and bitter. Several hours later and into the night I developed hives, I believe from that fruit. Odd that I had that reaction.
Baked a banana bread this afternoon. For dinner a new recipe, Cabbage Lasagna. Very good! This one is from The Boat Galley Cookbook. I used canned chicken instead of beef.
Oh my, the stars, the Milky Way, the Southern Cross!
Miles traveled 327.5 Average Speed 6.8knots Max Speed 12knots
Day 3-Tuesday January 19, calmer seas this morning, 13knots true wind, speed over ground 6.8knots. Rolled in the Genoa and Staysail, deployed the spinnaker, gained a 1 to 1.5knots of speed! Then of course the wind shifts, spinnaker down, code 65 up, staysail up. AH! Rain coming, couldn’t see the top of the dark cloud with rain, unable to tell if was going to a squall with big winds, code 65 down, Genoa out, partial cockpit enclosure zipped up. Rain passes, enclosure rolled up, Code sail back up. Our morning exercise routine!
In the afternoon we baked chocolate chip cookies, for dinner Sweet and Sour Cabbage and Bacon.
Oh my, the stars, the Milky Way, the Southern Cross!
Miles traveled 485.6 Average Speed 6.8knots Max Speed 12knots
Day4-Wednesday January 20, Inauguration Day! May the country move forward to a more United States than a divided states.
Wind this morning, 13-14 knots, speed over ground 7.6knots, 1-2 ft waves, partly cloudy. Quick rain shower early rinsed off the boat. Three squall followed with winds up to 25knots, more rain. Sails in and out most of the day.
Today is a chocolate day number 2.
By 6:30 pm we arrived at Rangiroa, it’s the second largest Atoll in the world. Dropped anchor near several other sailboats.
Miles traveled 584.2 Average Speed 6.9 Max Speed 12 Trip time 83:29:06 Total miles traveled 16352
Cloudy sky this evening, with storms and lightning in the distance.
Friday January 15, We departed Hakahau late afternoon escorted by several dolphins. Went south along the western shore to the village of Hakatoa. We anchored in 79 ft of water, in a very protected cove, didn’t feel comfortable leaving the boat, just in case the anchor didn’t hold.
Saturday January 16, In the morning we re-anchored closer to the town.
*Sourdough Notes* baked a Belle loaf this morning, my once a week bread bake. The loafs are about 8 inches round.
We went ashore and walk around the small village. The homes have beautiful vegetation around them. There isn’t much here, a small grocery store with very limited hours. A group of 12 or so children ages 10-12, were playing together by the water then closer to what looked like a school yard. Three fishermen came ashore we offered to purchase a fish from them, they filleted it for us. A young boy came over to us a gave us two yellow-green fruits, not sure what they are, they have a citrus smell to them. Guess we’ll find out when we cut them open. Don’t believe they are breadfruit, a Polynesian staple food. Update: they were grapefruits. Really hard on the outside, yellow on the inside, sweet and sour.
The island of Ua-Pou peaks are “Jurassic Park-esque” incredible!
Wednesday January 13, Went ashore had lunch at a local restaurant. Dan had sushi, I had chicken with rice. Also stopped by the arts center, the book store was still closed. We were hoping to buy a card or birthday card to mail to Dan’s Aunt Helen who will be 95 on the 19th, and we all want her to receive at least 95 birthday cards. Daughter Beth will send a card for us instead.
Restaurant
At the Arts center women were sewing this bed cover.
Another interesting feature about this town, Hakahau, is Manfred the Marquesas Chocolatier. It was a 6 mile (according to my watch) round trip hike on a hilly dirt road. 70-80% cacao organic dark chocolate. http://www.couleurcacao.com
We were greeted by the dogs then by Manfred. He had us sign the blue canapé by the pool. The underside is covered with thousands of signatures from boats that have stopped to visit him. In 2019, there were over 1000 boats, last year there were about 700 boats. This January, 19 people was have stopped by.
The kitchen has a bench at the counter, where he told us his story, and gave us samples of his chocolate. The two guys from another boat (s/v Alexander One) anchored in the bay arrived shortly after us.
Manfred grows all his own cocoa plants, uses no pesticides nor does he add palm oil to his products. A true organic chocolate. There have been chocolateers from France who have come to visit him and view his process. He would not let us see what was the room he works in, not even his wife is allowed in. There’s a store in Tahiti now selling his chocolate, twice the price he sells it for here. He was quite a character, born in Germany, he speaks 3 languages, German, English and French. He arrived here in 1987 from Germany. He used to fly helicopters. We purchased 10 bars 2 each of 5 different kinds. All dark chocolate, some have nuts in them. We spent about $45 US.
On the property were numerous dogs, dozens of cats, and chickens.
We are pulled up anchor late afternoon, going around to the NW side of the island, to Hakahetau. We did not go ashore today.
Thursday January 14, it was a rainy morning. By 1pm it had stopped and we went ashore. We were hoping to have lunch at the local restaurant but it is closed for 5 days as the husband or chef is away on vacation.
Sunday January 10, Happy Birthday Mike! We departed Nuku Hiva this morning, went 25 miles south to the island of Ua Pou. This island is the most populated and has the highest mountains in all of the Marquesas. We are anchored by the town of Hakahau. There are three other boats here.
Monday January 11, *Sourdough Notes* baked a Belle loaf this morning, no banana bread, they are all still green.
In the afternoon we walked around the town here, had lunch at a small outdoor seating restaurant, later had pizza for dinner at the other restaurant in town.
Tuesday January 12, went in town early today to go the bakery for breakfast. Walked around some more.
Bakery
Supermarket
A supply ship arrived today, took all day to unload. A tank truck came by several times to to filled up, a new car came off, bicycles too. Many people arrived today with their own pickup trucks taking boxes and crates from dock.
For dinner I sautéed zucchini with a green pepper, half a red onion, scallions, some chopped cabbage in Wegmans basting oil. Tossed in rice, topped off with diced fresh tomatoes.
Wednesday January 6, What a day for the history books!
We returned to Taiohae Bay this morning. Went ashore had lunch with John and Bev on s/v Dandelion, our new friends who are from South Africa. They gave us good Atlantic Ocean crossing advice, hopefully places will be open a year from now.
The afternoon was spent updating the blog with slow internet. Also stopped at the farmers market to pick up a few vegetables.
Thursday January 7, our friend John, who dives, replaced the zincs on the bottom of our boat this morning.
Boat inside cleaning day, as well as updating the canned food inventory.
Friday January 8, we provisioned a little today mostly produce, found a canned ham to try, and bottled water.
Heading out to dinner tonight with friends, going to the local food truck. Also known as the take out. All the food is served in plastic to go containers.
John, Bev, Dan, Me
Vinde Aux Legumes
Saturday January 9, we are preparing to leave Nuku Hiva tomorrow, going to the island Ua-Pou. We went ashore this afternoon to update our maps, stronger internet.
Saturday December 26, first stop the fuel dock to fill up with duty free diesel. This was an interesting process. You back the boat up to this cement wall, drop an anchor, throw two stern lines to attendant who ties them off on the same cleat, keep the engine running. We throw him a third line he attaches the fuel nozzle to, we bring it aboard to fill the tank. Using a small wet bag with a credit card inside, tied to a rope, we pass that over to pay for the diesel.
The first anchorage, Hooumi Bay, it’s a finger off of Controller Bay. There are three other boats anchored here. We did not go ashore here, on our land tour we stopped here.
Sunday December 27, *Sourdough Notes* mixed the dough for overnight Belle. This is another method where you mix the ingredients, put in fridge to slowly bulk ferment. My dough has been very billowy lately, possibly from the warm temperatures, maybe this method will be better here. I may be able to bake it this evening. Also baked banana bread in the morning.
Dan replaced the the outhaul again as it continued to chafe. He did find the source and fixed that too. Also switched the outhaul sheet with the staysail boom line. Then checked the rig tension, making a few minor adjustments.
Monday December 28, anchor up by 8am. It was a pleasant sail with 15knots of wind, speed over ground 5.4.
We anchored in Anaho Bay, today there are 19 other sailboats here. There is a small village, one restaurant, no stores. There is a hostel…
Washed laundry in the sink.
Tuesday December 29, this morning we’re giving the halyards a 15000 mile check up. Dropped the Genoa, sure enough there was a little bit of chafing. Dan cut the end off and retied it. He also checked the forestay tension. We’ll raise it back up when the wind calms. The Staysail halyard looked good, a little chafing on the sheet, which was cut off, shortening the line. Still need to check the Main halyard, and Cody, when the wind is less.
After lunch we took a walk to find the farm. It was 3.5 miles round trip, along the beach, over hills, grass, sand, rocks and dirt, we had flip flops on, not a good choice. At the farm we purchased tomatoes, limes, cucumbers and a watermelon. The farm is 10 acres.
Farm
Farm
Farm
The last Full moon of 2020.
Wednesday December 30, late morning we set off on another hike. This time up and over the mountain, about 1000ft elevation, 6.6 miles round trip, on a winding dirt covered path. On the other side is Hatiheau. We had lunch, then walked back over the hill.
This where we climbed
The trail
The trail
View from the top
Thursday December 31, New Years Eve. *Sourdough Notes* baked a Belle loaf this morning. I wasn’t pleased with the previous method I tried, so this time I put the dough in the fridge during the first hour of bulk fermentation to slow the process down. This worked very well. Also baked a banana bread.
Codey was dropped, then raised, to check the halyard, all is good.
We designed and made halyard bags. It helps prevent sun deterioration and keeps them organized, at the mast. I used old North Sails sail bags, and vinyl mesh for air and water drainage on the bottom.
Dinner was at Louise. A small beach front restaurant with 7 tables, outdoor seating. There was no menu, they just brought food to your table. There were three different plates. One was egg salad on French bread garnished with tomato or dill pickles, a quiche like, and pizza like squares on another plate, the third was kabobs of marinated grilled yellowtail tuna with onion and pineapple. So good!
Even live music!
Friday January 1, 2021 New Years Day!
Completed sewing projects today.
First was a bag with Velcro, attached to the boat in he cockpit, kind of a catch all bag, with a vinyl mesh bottom for drainage. The second, Dan wanted this piece of fabric to go across the back near the helmsman seat, to direct water from waves to bypass going into the cockpit and getting the helmsman seat wet.
We are left Anaho Bay by 11:00am going to another anchorage, Hakaehu Bay, working our way around the island. We are the only boat here.
Saturday January 2, we left our cozy anchorage in the morning, traveling about 2 hours to Haaopu Bay. Again we are the only boat in the anchorage.
Airport
Dan worked on the water maker most of the day. We had previously purchased chemicals to clean the membrane, it was a several hour process, ready to make more water.
Sunday January 3, we decided not to go ashore as the waves are a bit rough, didn’t want to beat ourselves up trying.
Departed Haaopu Bay for Baie Marquisienne, we decided not to stop as it was pretty wavy in there. Going to Daniel’s Bay, Baie De Taioa. Known to many cruisers as Daniel’s Bay from a local man who used to greet yachts and offer some services. Daniel passed away a few years ago. Dropped anchor around 2pm. Nice quiet, calm anchorage, there is one other boat here. The village is Hakaui.
Monday January 4, We hiked 6.6 miles round trip, took us more than 4 hours, over a very rocky, slightly hilly trail to find the waterfalls. I wore long sleeve shirt and tights, as the last hike we did in the woods I got bit a lot, even with bug repellent on. Along the trail there were 2 streams to cross, 1 had rocks to walk on, the water was about 2 ft deep in the middle. We used walking sticks to balance. The biggest creek, to cross, you walk across a tree that had fallen, holding on to another branch, there was quite a current in the water, it was about 4ft deep. You could of course just walk through the water. There are vertical walls of rock that rise to nearly 800 meters along the path. Vaipo Waterfalls, the highest in French Polynesia, it is 350 meters high that plummets into a natural swimming pool. The waterfall was just a trickle, it’s been pretty dry here.
Superman was here
The tree we walked over
The trail
The rock we walked over
Waterfall spot
On our way back an elderly couple who didn’t speak English, wanted to sell us fruit, we stopped sat on their patio for awhile as they they listen to music on the radio, Hotel California (in English) was playing. We gave them money for bananas, even though they didn’t want to be paid. A little ways down we had lunch at Teiki Et Koa. The menu of the day was grilled beef, bread fruit, and a fruit salad of shredded mango, papaya and pineapple. Also a pure juice drink of orange, mango, pineapple, star fruit and maybe more. We also purchased a pineapple from her. It was an exhausting day!
Tuesday January 5, *Sourdough Notes* baking a Belle loaf, as well as a banana bread.
In the afternoon, we went ashore to the beach.
Tomorrow, returning to Taiohae Bay to complete trip around the island.
Thursday December 24, Christmas Eve. Boat projects, bank, grocery store. Made homemade pizza for dinner.
Santa visited all the boats with children on them, arriving on a dinghy.
Bought this pizza sauce in Hawaii, so good. It’s a west coast item
Friday December 25, Merry Christmas. We went ashore early, before 8am, FaceTimed the kids individually. It was easier, with a not so good wifi connection.
It was a lazy day, listened to Christmas music all day. Dan read a bit, I worked on a needlework project I brought along. Had ham, cheesy mashed potatoes and green beans for dinner.
Merry Christmas to All! May 2021 bring you joy and happiness and hugs!❤️
Sailing Trance 